I'm curious if anyone has ever had a failure during a run. I'm thinking of using the alky system for extra fueling with Methanol which means if it fails I'm not only going to lean out big time but also lose the octane and cooling. I know when the jet in my dad's system got plugged it blew a headgasket instantly. We were running 24psi with 28 degrees of timing and it went from 0 degrees of retard to over 30. Didn't know that was possible lol. So has anyone ever had a jet plug up or a hobbs switch fail or any other type of failure? I hate to think that all it would take is a tiny piece of debris and my motor is junk.
Reliability of alcohol systems?
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A well designed system has checks and balances for such an occurrence.
Since its electrical, anything can happen at any time..like a piano falling out of the sky. But more likely to have something else fail before something like the pump.
examples of checks and balances..using a pressure guage to monitor alcohol pressure output, or a simple one is wiring a lamp across the pump terminals. But these cannot protect against a clogged nozzle..only the use of a filter to trap debris can prevent this.
The use of soldered/heat shrink connections vs the use of crimp connectors or black electrical tape..lessens bad connections. If you want it rite, solder all your connections whenever possible and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Your system is only as good as your worse connection.
Since its electrical, anything can happen at any time..like a piano falling out of the sky. But more likely to have something else fail before something like the pump.
examples of checks and balances..using a pressure guage to monitor alcohol pressure output, or a simple one is wiring a lamp across the pump terminals. But these cannot protect against a clogged nozzle..only the use of a filter to trap debris can prevent this.
The use of soldered/heat shrink connections vs the use of crimp connectors or black electrical tape..lessens bad connections. If you want it rite, solder all your connections whenever possible and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Your system is only as good as your worse connection.
You can bet the installation will be top notch. I've learned my lessons on electrical tape and twisting wires together. In fact I spent today ripping every single wire I've run since highschool out and replacing it. I even found my hotwire was 3 different wires twisted and taped together. Probably did more harm than good. But enough of that.
Being that my car is a hotair, it has the connector under the hood to trigger the Power Injection light so that's going to be functional. I wish there was a way to have it so if there was no pressure in the alky line, too much detonation, or at least no electrical current going to the motor the boost would be on the base wastegate setting. When you're running 10psi and a few degrees more timing than you could normally on pump gas all it takes is a second or two of no alky and you're replacing headgaskets.
Not to change the subject but does anyone know a good kit if you're planning on injecting a large volume of Methanol?
Being that my car is a hotair, it has the connector under the hood to trigger the Power Injection light so that's going to be functional. I wish there was a way to have it so if there was no pressure in the alky line, too much detonation, or at least no electrical current going to the motor the boost would be on the base wastegate setting. When you're running 10psi and a few degrees more timing than you could normally on pump gas all it takes is a second or two of no alky and you're replacing headgaskets.
Not to change the subject but does anyone know a good kit if you're planning on injecting a large volume of Methanol?
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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I'm running the last yellow or first red LED of my Caspers knock gauge as a trigger through the AUX input of my timing translator control box on one car, to apply the maximum retard available .
Might not be quick enough but then again about 20 degrees of instant retard can't hurt when knock is sensed.
Might not be quick enough but then again about 20 degrees of instant retard can't hurt when knock is sensed.
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My car had a wastegate hose break off and pegged my boost guage..becuase of the progressive in my car no damage was done...as the boost rises so does the volume. 150 PSI alky quenched the thirst..scary..but fun.
I was contemplating such a circuit many months ago for the just in case thing..pretty much everything in the car cuts fuel off if you kill the signal, MAF, ECM, TPS, etc..lean is no good..can shut the motor off by killing the crank trigger, but dont know how effective that will be. Thought of killing power to the ecm and shut everything down, problem is it will have to relearn..not a good thing.
This is my winter project. Maybe add a selenoid for the wastegate so it puts the compressor straight to the wastegate reducing boost along with injecting a signal into the knock circuit to get maximum reduction in timing..just thinking out loud.
Opinions always welcome.
DMan
buh bye
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I don't know why it happened now, but my Shurflo pump failed about a month ago. By failed, I mean one of the rubber diaphragms got swollen out of shape, and the pump could not put out more than 70 psi as a result.
I have been running that pump for over 3 years. I recently switched to methanol mixtures from denatured.
I bought a new pump. I could just as easily have bought a rebuild kit as they are readily available.
As a result of the failure however, I did get a lot of knock which weakened the head gasket. Even though I fixed the pump, the gaskets days were numbered, and it finally let go last night. Sooo..keep a close eye on your alky system to make sure its operating. I know this sounds complex, but I am considering one of Carroll's 'proof switches'..basically small pressure switches that you T into the alky line so you are sure the pressure is there. If you run high boost and high timing, your alky system is the only thing between you and a head gasket replacement.
I have been running that pump for over 3 years. I recently switched to methanol mixtures from denatured.
I bought a new pump. I could just as easily have bought a rebuild kit as they are readily available.
As a result of the failure however, I did get a lot of knock which weakened the head gasket. Even though I fixed the pump, the gaskets days were numbered, and it finally let go last night. Sooo..keep a close eye on your alky system to make sure its operating. I know this sounds complex, but I am considering one of Carroll's 'proof switches'..basically small pressure switches that you T into the alky line so you are sure the pressure is there. If you run high boost and high timing, your alky system is the only thing between you and a head gasket replacement.
High timing yields more knock. You will have a better tendancy to pop a HG with 26 degrees timing vs 20.
Dennis, sorry to hear bout the car. Maybe consider running larger nozzles and less pressure so the pump isnt as taxed? 80-100 PSI is plenty pressure if the correct nozzles are used.
Good luck with the HG rebuild..and make sure the other side didnt get hurt.
Dennis, sorry to hear bout the car. Maybe consider running larger nozzles and less pressure so the pump isnt as taxed? 80-100 PSI is plenty pressure if the correct nozzles are used.
Good luck with the HG rebuild..and make sure the other side didnt get hurt.
DMan
buh bye
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I don't think the high pressures caused the pump diaphragm to fail. Judging by the looks of it, I believe there was some sort of chemical incompatibility that caused the old diaphragm to swell. Secondly, if overpressure was a problem, I would expect to see a diaphragm rip/tear rather than stretch.
Thanks for the well wishes on the rebuild. Say, if it were you, would you replace both head gaskets, even if you suspect only one of them failed? Motor has 105,000 miles.
