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Removing oil pump cover in car

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BJM

Senior Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
905
I am hoping someone has done this. I am kicking myself for not doing it when I had the front cover out but it looked fine. I figure I need to move the lower rad hose off of the water pump to make some room and remove the oil cooler hoses. Do I have to lift the engine off the mount too? I can reach the lower two bolts and the 2 behind the oil filter adapter. The two on top seem impossible to reach. I have just replaced the big o ring so far and it helped, but I still have leaks somewhere.

How long should this take?
 
Originally posted by BJM
I am hoping someone has done this. I am kicking myself for not doing it when I had the front cover out but it looked fine. I figure I need to move the lower rad hose off of the water pump to make some room and remove the oil cooler hoses. Do I have to lift the engine off the mount too? I can reach the lower two bolts and the 2 behind the oil filter adapter. The two on top seem impossible to reach. I have just replaced the big o ring so far and it helped, but I still have leaks somewhere.

How long should this take?

There are a total of 6 bolts on the pump cover(2 behind oil filter adapter and 4 others)...As mounted on the car, all the bolts come out from the bottom...I don't understand what you mean by the two on top??? The six bolts are spaced fairly equally like a hexagon...No need to lift engine...You obviously need to remove the cooler adapter to get to the 2 hidden bolts, but other than that, it can be done from the bottom with pretty much everything installed...
 
I agree with FJM568, I just did this. It helps if you have a long extension and a swivel adapter. No need to pull the radiator hose. Just pull the oil cooler adapter and it is as good as done.
 
Lying on the ground looking up. Two of the four are below the raised area leading to the filter and two are above it. The other two are under the filter adapter.

Did you have to move the steering at all to get at the upper ones? My centerlink was blocking my access. Or did you reach in from behind the cross member?

I assume I have to prime the pump after doing this.

Why did you guys open yours up? Were they leaking?
 
Just use a quarter/inch drive ratchet...The bolts aren't very tight...You should be able to reach the two that are behind the oil cooler adapter with a short extension and socket...

In my case, I was replacing the pump cover for other reasons...I found the GM oil pump cover that had the standard thread instead of the metric thread so that I could run the Biggie filter straight off of the pump cover instead of using the oil cooler adapter nut, because my 85 GN didn't have the oil cooler from the factory...

Are you working on a GN/TR or a TTA???

YES!!! The pump needs to be primed...Either pack the gear pocket with petroleum jelly(Vaseline) or after the pump cover is back on, use one of the oil cooler hoses to fill the pump up with oil...Personally, I would pack the cover with Vaseline...Don't forget to pull the cam sensor and spin the oil pump clockwise to prime the oil pump/motor...Pull the oil fill cap on the driver's side valve cover and prime the oil pump until you see oil flowing in the driver's side head...
 
So EASY a Girl can do it!! :)

It is actually so easy to do this job I had my ex-fiancee do it while I told her how. :D The bolts were pretty easy to get to (even the back ones) with a 1/4" drive ratchet. putting it back together is pretty easy too. I just packed my pump with vaseline. I didn't worry about priming the whole motor as all the oil passages already had oil in them. So the only parts that didn't have oil would be the cooler lines and i poured oil into them before I connected them. Had oil pressure upon starting the car just like normal.

Derrick
 
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