Sputters/misses at cruise - smokes on Accelleration

[Rosewood]

this problem showed up overnight - need a little help with it.

I changed the water pump and alternator, it seemed to run normally, but when I drove it the next day it started and drove fine on the way to work, but progressively got worse, barely made it home, it was full throttle or stall - it turned out that the MAF pipe came off at the turbo and i thought, "Ok, no problem". it seemed ok in the driveway after i put it back on.

then this morning i go to work and the car runs irratically while at cruise speeds - no matter what that speed is. its just "ba-ba-baaa-baa-ba-ba--baaaa", until i get on the gas, then she smooths out - but when i get on the boost, its blowing "something" out the tail pipe, could be real rich, could be something else - i dunno, its pitch black at 5:30am and i couldn't see what colour the smoke was. all i could see is the crap in the headlights of the guy behind me when i got on the boost.

any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[pacecarta]

im guessing no scanmaster in the car ?
any check engine lights
if it was a hose off reset the chip (unplug orange wire by battery then reconnect ) to reset the blms it learned when the hose was off

if still has issues
check your connections to :
the maf sensor ( electrical and ducting ),
intercooler hose connections
o2 sensor( note turbotweak chip wouldn't care but others might )
coolant temp sensor (black and yellow wire connector)
check the plugs for fouling from running it rich with the maf pipe off

not what id guess but ... ...also check the voltage when its running , if voltage is low it wont run well
check that you plugged the plug back into the back of the alternator , without that it wont charge

or could be totaly unrelated to what you did , get some #s from a scanmaster or scanner tool and we can work from there

 

[Rosewood]

no scanmaster - always wanted one, but never did!

check engine light was on before - it went off when i was at full throttle for 4 or 5 seconds and then came back on when i returned to normal driving, i never thought anything of it - been like that for a couple years.

there is no chip, still stock ecu and electrics. i'll confirm the maf and the temp sensor wires. O2 change 7-8K ago, i'll look for wires around there.

Alternator is new, charging fine, the 'Volt' light came off and all seems well - ie: windows, blower, turn signals operating normally.

can't you short 2 pins on the diag conn and count the flashes? or is that not reccommended?

 

[pacecarta]

to get SES codes without a scanner
Malfunction Codes Reference

 

[Rosewood]

thanks for the link - i got 22, 24, 32, 44

so the first thing i gotta do is check the TPS - not sure what to do about the EGR - local parts store maybe??

 

[pacecarta]

those are stored codes unless you just reset and got those no way to tell why they were there ,
dont just jump right in changing things
the o2 is expected with the maf hose
the vss could be a faulty setting of the neutral /park switch on the column or a bad speedo cable (does the speedo work) or a bad vss buffer under the dash
the tps low needs checking and resetting if needed , could have neen set if it was unplugged with with key in on position (also means you should check and set the iac as well (need a scan tool for that )
egr could be the vac hose to the egr solenoid is off or came off at some point

now after checking the tps and the egr hose , reset codes , start car and see what codes return


you said no chip , every car with stock ecu has a chip , so by that do you mean you're still on stock chip??
i would remove that and go to a modern chip , better all around for the engine and safer timing for todays pumpgas

if you would move to a modern chip like the turbotweak besides the improved idle it wouldnt care about the egr as it doesnt use it so no check lights even if you were to remove the solenoid

 

[86GN-862+2]

When I first got my car, it did just that until it would no longer stay running. After reading up and doing the code check before the scanmaster, I replaced plugs, plug wires and the MAF. That did it for me.

 

[Rosewood]

those are stored codes unless you just reset and got those no way to tell why they were there ,
dont just jump right in changing things
the o2 is expected with the maf hose
the vss could be a faulty setting of the neutral /park switch on the column or a bad speedo cable (does the speedo work) or a bad vss buffer under the dash
the tps low needs checking and resetting if needed , could have neen set if it was unplugged with with key in on position (also means you should check and set the iac as well (need a scan tool for that )
egr could be the vac hose to the egr solenoid is off or came off at some point

now after checking the tps and the egr hose , reset codes , start car and see what codes return


you said no chip , every car with stock ecu has a chip , so by that do you mean you're still on stock chip??
i would remove that and go to a modern chip , better all around for the engine and safer timing for todays pumpgas

if you would move to a modern chip like the turbotweak besides the improved idle it wouldnt care about the egr as it doesnt use it so no check lights even if you were to remove the solenoid

thats crazy - you sure you've never seen my car?!!

it has the stock chip and the idle is bad. i had a red armstrong chip and another chip but all they did was make my mileage worse - so i put the stocker back in.
the speedo works below 5mph then stops working when you go over 5, OR if you are driving normally, and put in neutral and coast - then for some reason the speedo comes back to life - very wierd.

the battery was disconnected when i changed the alternator, so i guess the codes were stored - how do you reset it??
i put a new MAF on last summer - the plug wires and plugs need a change

thanks!