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86grandnat.

New Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2004
Messages
156
I was wondering how long a car can sit without running it? The last time I ran it was in October and I was wondering if I left it till April it would be fine. I would start it but it gets really cold here in the winters and the car is running like crap due to a fauly maf. Thanks for the input!
 
it would probably be ok,but just rember gravity makes oil settle downward,but then again im sure it gets so cold up their the oil will gell up and stay suck to where it needs to be. running it every now and then would still be best though.
 
To run or not to run........I've heard arguements both ways. While in storage, I personally like to start my car up every few weeks and let run for a while, to circulate the oil. My best friend says the opposite. He says this creates moisture inside the engine. I believe a motor needs to be used, or the seals will dry up, etc. I also let run until the oil is heated up. But anyways, if you want to keep in storage for a while without starting, I would do a few things. #1. Add Stabil to your gas, and let run for a while so it will treat the whole fuel system. #2. Change the oil before putting car away. #3. Spray fogging oil into your spark plug holes. Also, not related to engine: #4. disconnect battery and charge before putting away (also charge before putting back on road) #5. put car up on jack stands so the tires dont get flat spots from sitting in one place for months. #6 Roll windows down a little (this keeps inside pressure equal to outside pressure which can save your window seals). I'm probably forgetting a few things, but these are a good start.
 
Thanks for the input thus far, I would start it at least once a month but the car is running really rough now and I think it would just hurt it more starting it in the cold weather then letting it sit. Any more input out there? Thanks!
 
Keep it lubricated....

1. Run til it completely warms up.
2. Run the heater full blast and at half way
3. Then run the air conditioner
4. Over inflate the tires slightly if no jack stands
5. With out the jack stands I back it in and out a couple times
6. Windows open also keeps indentations from forming in the rubber window trim.
7. I open hood and trunk slightly - no bulbs
8. Put it away CLEAN then cover interior and exterior

I also use Stabil and gasline antifreeeze with a full tank of good gas to keep condensation in the tank to a minimum. Oil change before and after storage -and for the whole spring routine and ideas go to:

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
 
Winterize Your Classic
First things first. Go for one last drive.
This serves two purposes.
1. It's fun
2. It allows your car to get up to operating temperature.
Bringing your engine up to temperature is important to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the exhaust system. If you've waited too long and it's a bit too cool to get the engine up to temperature, use a piece of cardboard in front of the rad to help things along. Be careful not to overheat it this way.
While you are out cruising, stop by a car wash and clean the undercarriage. Then stop and fill the tank with high grade gasoline, be sure and add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer before filling up the tank. This will thoroughly mix the stabilizer with the fuel. Now drive straight home and wash and scrub up the outside of the car. Clean the car as if you were entering it in a show and shine. If it's been awhile since you've waxed it, today is a good day to apply another coat. Dry everything thoroughly. Perhaps grease those door and hood hinges while things are drying off. It's been suggested to pour a bit of 2 stroke oil into the carb just before shutting it down. The idea is to lightly coat the internals with oil. The 2 stroke oil will burn off clean when started again compared to conventional oil. I've never done this, but the idea sounds solid. Some shop manuals recommend that you change the oil at this time, your choice.
Once you have the car parked for it's winter sleep here are a few more points to consider.
o Remove the battery and store in a moderate temperature. Trickle charging will do wonders for the life of the battery. Spray the lead terminals on the cables with WD-40 to prevent the dreaded 'green growth' while the battery is away.
o Make sure the anti-freeze is better than your coldest winter day by a safe margin. If you have a block heater, make sure it works. You may not use it, but if things turned really ugly you don't want to be freezing your fingers splicing wires in January.
o Touch up the exhaust manifolds where needed with high temp paint and a little brush. If you don't, you will not be pleased with what you see in the spring. I always touch up the front suspension with 'chassis black' for the same reason.
o A mild protectorant like WD-40 works great for keeping rust from growing on exposed metal parts (bolt heads, tie-rod ends, electrical terminals). I'm fairly liberal with it.
o If you plan to have any work done like rechroming or rebuilding, remove those parts now and get them sent to their appropriate places.
o It's been suggested to raise the tire pressure by an extra 10 pounds and while I have never done this, I will this year.
o We assume that you thoroughly cleaned the interior and will suggest that you do not put the floor mats back in. Store them somewhere else. Do the same with the trunk mat. This prevents any trapped moisture from doing damage.
o Tape over or plug the exhaust pipes. MLM* Mice Love Mufflers. Great winter home.
o Leave the windows cracked open. This allows some air movement. Mothballs? Not for this boy. I took a roadtrip in a car that had mothballs in it all winter. Damn near killed me, not the moths.
o Cover the car with a breathable quality car cover like Technalon.
o If you will be walking anywhere near the car for the next few months, get a couple of scrap foam strips from your friendly upholstery shop and tuck them under the cover in places you (or someone little perhaps) is likely to bump into. I also throw a couple of pieces of cardboard on the hood and trunk. This prevents problems when something is invariably sat on the car (for just a minute). I also throw a piece on the top (convertible only) as I found cats just love sleeping up there and this discourages them.
o I like the idea of 'relaxing' the suspension. This simply means blocking the frame of the car up - but not allowing the suspension to 'hang'. Think of it as just taking a bit of the weight off the tires.
o I don't recommend starting the engine until spring - depending on your concept of winter. If it's -20, leave it alone. You will do more damage starting it and filling everything with moisture than just leaving it alone. If the thought of not touching it for months drives you crazy, take a large ratchet and turn the engine a 1/4 turn every so often.
o Check your insurance policy. Most companies offer storage insurance for a very modest fee. Heavy snow loads or fire can wreck your car just as quick as a road accident.
o Now get yourself a good book or two to pass the cold winter nights.
 
i was going to say the same as ART-87tr. I wouldnt start the thing in the winter, cold start ups are terrible for cars. just wait until spring change the oil and do your one cold start up. it puts a lot of wear on an engine when you do this.
 
First of all thanks for all the input so far, its helping a lot. I guess I should say that I am parking my National so you all know. The last time I took it out I washed her all up and drove it around for about 1/2 hour so it should have been warm. The block heater works cause last year I would plug it in for a day then start it for 20 mins. I would do the same this year, but my turbo needs replacing bad and I have a faulty maf so the car doesn't like to run all so well. The tires are junk in the back (wonder why, lol), so maybe I will just put jack stands in the front. Oh, the car is parked in a tent like garage so I don't have to worry about snow. Thanks!
 
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