trans-+ help

[Big Mike]

I just installed a 3.5 mas and the trans + with 75 lbs inject and a extender chip.The car feels slow and wont spool up.Have a te64 front mount and a 9.5 lock up.I went last weekend a 12.20 at 114mph on 009 and 3 cracks on a driver side manafold.Not a good tunner but I will listen to what others have to say.Have no idea what settings on the trans + should be at .Went to the track on saturday at all zero setting and the car didn't want to move and the 02 were rich.2nd pass the car stalled down the track and on the direct scan everthing nose dived like a big glitch.If any suggestions please help. Thanks

 

[sixgun86gn]

Its too rich,back out the fuel pressure or lean it out at WOT with the T+.

 

[Dan Thompson]

I would guess you should have the On/Off switches set to

On/On/Off/Off

These are checked each time the key is turned on.

The rotary switches should be something like this.

first switch should be 0, 1, or 2 depending on the IDLE richness of
No change, 5% richer, or 10% richer.

second switch is WOT settings.
0 no change
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 are increasing richness of
2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, and 14%.

8 is not used

9, A, B, C, D, E, F are decreasing richness of
14%, 12%, 10%, 8%, 6%, 4%, and 2%

third switch is spark advance/retard at IDLE
same setting as second switch except for spark advance
1 to 7 advance

9 to F retard

four switch is spark advance/retard at WOT ABOVE 3200 rpm

1, 2, 3, 4, 5 (ADVANCE)
2 degrees, 4 degrees, 6 degrees, 8 degrees, and 10 degress

B, C, D, E, F (RETARD)
10 degress, 8 degrees, 6 degrees, 4 degrees, and 2 degrees

6, 7, 8, 9, and A are more complicated.

If you want me to FAX you the instructions send me a fax number

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Dan Thompson

first switch should be 0, 1, or 2 depending on the IDLE richness of
No change, 5% richer, or 10% richer.

Dan, are you sure about that switch?

I'm pretty sure mine goes:

No change, 5% richer, 5% leaner.

 

[Big Mike]

The spool up is so slow ,It has no hard pull.Is this the translator and the injectors also last night I noticed the o2 reading always dropped to 661 at 31 miles an hour and slow spool up throught.The only other thing I did was drop the exhaust manifolds,have them welded and machined, put gaskets on the manafold and the turbo 3 bolt area.The cross over pipe maybe off and i'll readjust it and put some heat to it to make it seal.
I'll even change the o2 later to see the out come.It did through a code of 42 and a13 .Electronic spark controll and o2 readings.Ill try it after work today.Please keep ideas coming!

 

[Sleeper]

Mike I also have been throwing a lot of code 42's (EST) I have a DPDT (On, off, forced) lighted switch for my TC lockup and I think It's sending some sort of spike to the ECM. (I have a diode in line with the light) but it still causes a code when I turn it on.
Unless I clear the ECM the car runs really hot and crappy. (locked timing?)

Paul

 

[Dan Thompson]

TurboDave

Yes, I typed it correctly.

/b/Mike[/b]

There should have been a little spec sheet that came with your extender chip. I can't find mine right now, but I am sure it has the shift mph and maybe something about the tranny lock up.

I just don't remember.

 

[Big Mike]

Well I had the car on the hoist and found the rear manifolds lose >I Guess the gaskets have to be tightend a bunch of times .The funny thing is I couldn't here a exhaust leak but under boost I felt the heat around my feet yesterday>I left the car in the garage since saturday because I was pissed
One problem down and one to go (tunning the trans plus!!)
Thanks for all the replies.
Mike

 

[turboaddict2]

Hope this helps

http://www.turbomike.com/translator_instructions.htm

 

[turboaddict2]

Or this....

http://www.ramchargers.com/RamNews/Translator/translatorplus_manual.htm

 

[TurboDave]

Yes, if you look real close at those instructions (Dan);

0 3.5" LT1/LS1 MAF sensor (Turbo V6) No Change
1 3.5" LT1/LS1 MAF sensor (Turbo V6) (richer at idle) 5% Rich
2 3.5" LT1/LS1 MAF sensor (Turbo V6) (leaner at idle) 10% Rich


Notice in postions 1 and 2, in parenthasis in the right column, it says (richer at idle), and (leaner at idle)? Notice they are in paren's, just like the words (Turbo V6) to their left?

There's a reason for that. The items that say 5% rich, and 10% rich are for the "F" body'd V8 cars, so ignore those particular values. The stuff in paren's are for the Buick V6

Everybody has to remember, these Translators are made for many other types of cars, and as such the different BASE settings do different things to the different cars.

Position 3 is 10% rich for a Camaro V8, BUT it's leaner at idle for a Buick Turbo V6.

Hope that's clear.

 

[Steve Y]

Dave,

I think he could fool with the fuel till he is blue in the face and it won't do anygood till he fixes the leaks.
The balls on the end of the headers get egg shaped after being tightened too much.....I found.

I had to go to the muffler shop and have a pipe expanded on the end into a ball and welded each one onto the end of the header after I cut the old ends off.
Then, while on the hoist with the crossover pushed up there, tack welded the new header ends in place.

I suspect those leaks will kill that thing with that turbo.

Steve

 

[Big Mike]

Thanks and more Thanks

Thank you for your replies the exhaust was fixed a couple weeks now I'm just playing with the trans plus when I have some free time.No codes have showed up for a while(cross fingers)I just want to figure this out before cam heads and intake go on and notice the change .Any more Ideas just keep them coming!
Thanks again
Mike

 

[Big Mike]

Just wondering if anyone else is having this much fun? (ya right) The street part is set for the trans plus but what about for drag racing on116 gas?Does some one know where the timing for the settings should be for around 25 lbs boost or higher?te64 turbo 75 # injec,3200 stall.
thanks again

 

[Big Mike]

anyone know the timing for 25 lb boost on c116?
When I went to the track I started at 19/17 and all the switches at 0000 and it really bogged.Had to off the gas really slow.Turned the timing to 20 and it went 13.7(far off fron 12.2 at 117mph)I went to 22 timing and the track was closed and I could not run.Was I getting close?I'll have to go again next week.Stay tune to AS THE TRANSLATOR PLUS TURNS!!

 

[TurboDave]

I run 19/17 on the street. However, on the track it's a different story. I run 29/27 for timing. My boost gets set to 23 on the first run (look over the DS file). Then is upped to 25 (look again at DS file) if all is stll well the boost is sneaked up to 26-27.

When running at the track with high timing and high boost. keep a close eye out for knock retard. If you see ANY, anywhere in the run, even less than one degree, that's your limit point.

 

[rick richardson]

what to get a 3inch or a 3.5 MAF ???????? how do you get the 3.5 to work whith the 3 maf pipe and k&n filter am fixing to buy and need some help whith what works the best how about that extender chip any good

 

[TurboDave]

You get those rubber sewer pipe connectors from places like Home Depot. It's not a reducer, but it's soft enough to clamp down around a 3" MAF pipe.

You can see one here between my maf and chrome maf pipe. I can't remember what size they are, maybe 3", but they're actually large enough to fit over the 3.5" maf, and a little larger than a 3" maf pipe. Makes them almost ideal.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/24421944/31465479rXhCLuFIlD

 

[rick richardson]

what is the the change from the 3 3.5 anybody know and how about the extender chip for a 119 i hope it is worth the money thanks dave