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Water temp and Oil pressure gauge install

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Hyser

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
24
I need to know where I should mount the sending units for an Autometer Electric Water Temp and Oil Pressure gauges. Please give a locations and where you routed your wires.

Thanks
 
Water temp sender, use the idiot light sender hole at the front of the intake. For oil pressure I've seen people use a "T" fitting at the factory sender spot under the turbo.
 
For water temp, I just removed the threaded 1/8 NPT plug in the driver side of the block, just above the pan and put the sender.
For oil pressure, I removed the stock pressure switch from the brass block under the turbo at the front bottom of the engine and screwed the sender right in it. This is the same brass block the turbo oil feed line is plumbed from.
 
Yeah but what about the stock switch?? You can leave it unplugged?
Doing away w/ the switch will result in no fuel pump relay bypass. Should the fp relay fail, and you attempt to start the engine, that sw will allow pump operation, once oil psi gets over 4psi. W/o it, it's AAA time, or you walk home.:smuggrin:
My last T had a small manifold that I mounted at the AC box. I moved the gauge sender and the stock sw to that manifold. I used braided hose w/ clear plastic over it, to prevent the braid eating wires, paint, etc.
The new car is getting the same treatment.(y)
 
Doing away w/ the switch will result in no fuel pump relay bypass. Should the fp relay fail, and you attempt to start the engine, that sw will allow pump operation, once oil psi gets over 4psi. W/o it, it's AAA time, or you walk home.:smuggrin:
My last T had a small manifold that I mounted at the AC box. I moved the gauge sender and the stock sw to that manifold. I used braided hose w/ clear plastic over it, to prevent the braid eating wires, paint, etc.
The new car is getting the same treatment.(y)

Very good idea.. Thank you for the feedback
 
Very good idea.. Thank you for the feedback

1 other way to "beat the system", is to carry a jumper wire. U can jump from the alt power stud to the black connector that hangs loose near the back of the alt. Hooked up, the pump will run all the time....Still beats walking!
 
For water temp, I just removed the threaded 1/8 NPT plug in the driver side of the block, just above the pan and put the sender.
For oil pressure, I removed the stock pressure switch from the brass block under the turbo at the front bottom of the engine and screwed the sender right in it. This is the same brass block the turbo oil feed line is plumbed from.

That should make your water temp read way colder than actual. The only heat it'll see is whatever heat the bottom of the front cyl puts into it... and the bottoms don't run all that warm.


And like Chuck mentioned, without the oil switch, the relay has to carry all the responsibility for making sure the fuel pump runs.
 
1 other way to "beat the system", is to carry a jumper wire. U can jump from the alt power stud to the black connector that hangs loose near the back of the alt. Hooked up, the pump will run all the time....Still beats walking!


I don't think the dummy light for the water temp can be tied in with the sender. It's not working.
 
Huh?? What does the water temp sender have to do w/ the fuel pump power??


No.... I connected my gauge today and it wasn't working... I removed the dummy light wire thinking it was colliding with the signal. Long story short I ran a home run from the the sender to the switch and it still isn't working. I can't figure it out.
 
for the oil sender just go get a "street t" and install both the aftermarket and stock sending units. can take a pic of mines later if you need it.
 
for the oil sender just go get a "street t" and install both the aftermarket and stock sending units. can take a pic of mines later if you need it.

Thank you but I'm sure my oil pressure gauge is working. But my water temperature is not working for some reason I gave it a homerun from the sensor to the gauge and it still isn't working and I can't figure it out
 
Doing away w/ the switch will result in no fuel pump relay bypass. Should the fp relay fail, and you attempt to start the engine, that sw will allow pump operation, once oil psi gets over 4psi. W/o it, it's AAA time, or you walk home.:smuggrin:
My last T had a small manifold that I mounted at the AC box. I moved the gauge sender and the stock sw to that manifold. I used braided hose w/ clear plastic over it, to prevent the braid eating wires, paint, etc.
The new car is getting the same treatment.(y)


Bingo. Now I've never had a FP relay fail on me but it has happened to a few friend's cars.
 
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