Wheel Stud ?s
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studs
Well, some use the GM 3" studs which will go through the nut. I used the 2.5" ARP replacements which protrude into the hex portion of the nut which is what NHRA requires. I'm using weld prostars myself. Yes you will have to remove the axles. I just did it this weekend and it was real easy. The only snag is if the center pin in the posi wont come out. there are full instructions on gnttype.org for axel removal. I have seen people say they beat them out with the axle in the car, but I had to smack them in a vise w/ a hammer REAL hard to get them out, you dont want to subject you bearings/c-clips to that. Hope this helps.
Well, some use the GM 3" studs which will go through the nut. I used the 2.5" ARP replacements which protrude into the hex portion of the nut which is what NHRA requires. I'm using weld prostars myself. Yes you will have to remove the axles. I just did it this weekend and it was real easy. The only snag is if the center pin in the posi wont come out. there are full instructions on gnttype.org for axel removal. I have seen people say they beat them out with the axle in the car, but I had to smack them in a vise w/ a hammer REAL hard to get them out, you dont want to subject you bearings/c-clips to that. Hope this helps.
turbojimmy
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See here:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26880
The NHRA requirement is that the stud must protrude from the end of the nut an amount at least equal to the diameter of the stud. The GM 3" ones are perfect.
Jim
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26880
The NHRA requirement is that the stud must protrude from the end of the nut an amount at least equal to the diameter of the stud. The GM 3" ones are perfect.
Jim
Here is exactally what NHRA requires "All wheel studs must project into the hex portion of the lug nut by a distance equal to one diameter of the stud."
This is a quote from Nick Micale in the same thread you specified Jim, I wonder which is correct?
This is a quote from Nick Micale in the same thread you specified Jim, I wonder which is correct?
malibuick231
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are you using the right lugnut? Weld wheels use a long shank lugnut I got mine at auto zone but you have to look behind the counter i think the shank is at least a inch long. They will have two lengths you want the longest.
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
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- May 26, 2001
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Originally posted by squeeze87
Here is exactally what NHRA requires "All wheel studs must project into the hex portion of the lug nut by a distance equal to one diameter of the stud."
This is a quote from Nick Micale in the same thread you specified Jim, I wonder which is correct?
Nick's right, I'm wrong. I misinterpreted the rule, dammit. The ARPs would've worked.
Oh well....the GMs are cheaper, but you do need to pull the axles to install them.
Thanks for pointing that out.....
Jim
Wheel Studs
I purchased a set of ARP studs from Cotton's Performance and I was able to install them without removing axles. I'm using a set of Weld Drag stars with a 3.5 backspacing. I also use the open lug because the ARP studs are longer. They fit perfectly. If you look around where your shoe pads are there is an area you could fit the stud tightly but it will go in the hole where the old stud used to be. I knocked my old stock studs out with a hammer. It was a little work, but very manageable. Once I put the stud in I had to press it on the axle. Power tool would of help, but I used my trusty breaker bar with the proper socket. I used a spare lug and WD 40 to press fit it.
I purchased a set of ARP studs from Cotton's Performance and I was able to install them without removing axles. I'm using a set of Weld Drag stars with a 3.5 backspacing. I also use the open lug because the ARP studs are longer. They fit perfectly. If you look around where your shoe pads are there is an area you could fit the stud tightly but it will go in the hole where the old stud used to be. I knocked my old stock studs out with a hammer. It was a little work, but very manageable. Once I put the stud in I had to press it on the axle. Power tool would of help, but I used my trusty breaker bar with the proper socket. I used a spare lug and WD 40 to press fit it.
