Will RC dual fans help me?

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turbojimmy

Supporting Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
5,560
Hi all,

Ever since I had my engine rebuilt my car has been running hot. I have a 4-row radiator and before the rebuild the temps were rock solid at 170 (with a 160 degree stat) under just about all circumstances. Since the rebuild the car will get cool only coasting at highway speeds. I'm thinking it's because it's punched .040 over. When climbing hills and sitting in traffic it will get as high as 210 on a hot day. Yesterday it was about 85 degrees and it hit 200 w/out the a/c on in traffic. High fan isn't coming on anymore for some reason. When it did it helped a bit - I'll have to look into that.

It seems to me that since it moves enough air to cool down at highway speeds that a fan upgrade might help. There's a ton of posts on the RC fans. It looks like a) it's not a direct fit so there's some fabrication that needs done and b) the plug-n-play wiring harness really isn't plug-n-play in that the fans don't function hi and low like stock.

Is this a worthwhile investment given my cooling "problem"?
 
I would consider using the Ramchargers Dual. They were running a deal with the harness adapter for like $80. I am using one and it made a huge difference in lowering and controling the temps.

I am curious as to why your re-build is running hotter. My buddy has the same deal with his re-built GN (.030 over). Runs like 220f on 90+ F days. Hes hasn't addressed this yet, other than not driving on those days.
 
Originally posted by scgnx
I am curious as to why your re-build is running hotter. My buddy has the same deal with his re-built GN (.030 over). Runs like 220f on 90+ F days. Hes hasn't addressed this yet, other than not driving on those days.

I'm curious, too but have pretty much given up on finding a problem. I swapped the stat out and it didn't help. The radiator is new (relatively speaking). It's a Nick Micale high efficiency 3-row core unit that was working flawlessly before the rebuild. Seems to be flowing okay. The only strange thing is that the system won't hold any pressure. I have a pressure test kit and confirmed that the pressure is going somewhere. There's no obvious leak, it's not the cap (replaced that too) and it's not the head gaskets (actually have had this same hot problem with 2 rebuilds - don't ask).

All I could figure was that the .040 overbore puts the cylinder walls pretty close to the water jackets. The cooling system can cool it, but I need to move a lot of air across the radiator.

Jim
 
I'd do the Ramcargers dual fan set up, regardless. it will certainly help. And your problem with not having a high speed fan will likely be obsolete, because when these fans come on they ONLY run in high speed with the wiring harness adapter provided.

No, it's not a direct drop in. Takes some minor modifications which you can read about on this board. no big deal. I did my install in about an hour or so.
 
You should see about a 10 degree drop if you fix the high speed fan operation.

Just install a jumper accross the resistor or move the low speed wire to the high speed fan wire side of the resistor. :)

Will help while you are waiting for the fan kit to arrive.
 
mines .030 over and had heating up problems with stock fan and recored rad in HOT days too.

The Becool and RC dual fans take care of that now:)
 
How do you get this deal..all I see is the 80 dollar fan and the relay for 23, or the whole thing for 140....What is the deal?
 
Originally posted by 87owner
How do you get this deal..all I see is the 80 dollar fan and the relay for 23, or the whole thing for 140....What is the deal?

From what I could gather, it was a GP a while back.

I'm going to hold off on the $700 BeCool radiator though it does look nice. Hopefully the dual fans will keep things substantially cooler for a while.

As an aside, is the high-speed fan called by the ECM or some other event. I know the A/C triggers it, but it does come on high-speed at other times.

Thanks for the info.

Jim
 
Ramchargers is running a special on the fan : "Spring Heat Wave Sale.
Order our Ramcharger Fan #674001 $79.99 and get the plug in adapter #674002 FREE (Normally $22.95)"

Its posted on "advertiser specials" on this forum. Its very good deal.
 
Originally posted by scgnx
Ramchargers is running a special on the fan : "Spring Heat Wave Sale.
Order our Ramcharger Fan #674001 $79.99 and get the plug in adapter #674002 FREE (Normally $22.95)"

Its posted on "advertiser specials" on this forum. Its very good deal.

Like a fool I've already ordered the $139.99 #674003. I e-mailed to see what the story is.

Where are folks putting their alky tank when they install these fans?

Jim
 
I had to make my own bracket and anchored it to the frame down on the passengers side, behind the battery. Just find yourself a good bar of flat iron and have at it!
 
TurboJimmy dont feel like a fool.....before I finally bought my rc dual fan I spent 80 bucks on some piece of junk from adavnce auto parts.
I paid the 140 and it was well spent....thumbs up from me
Chris:p
 
Jim:

I have Mikes fan setup.It will cool my motor froim 170 to 160 in 30 secs tops. It is a good investment in my opinion. As for the high fan, it wont work unless the sender in the intake closes at 23x degrees, or the AC high pressure switch has closed. Prior to that, the low speed fan is functioning under ECM control. If you want high fan at all times the fan is on, simply jumper the resistor on the fan. You COULD run a jumper from the low relay trigger to the high relay trigger, and it will work fine, but will set the delay relay to on every time. Not necessarily a BAD thing, I just have killed a couple batteries when the delay relay stuck and pulled my battery down cuz the fan stayed on. Right now, my delay relay is a dummy piece. Nothing inside, just there to appear stock.

If you wanna see the fans, stop by. Theyre real easy to see with no motor in my car. But hurry, I plan to have it in (not necessarily running) this weekend.
 
Originally posted by TurboJim
If you wanna see the fans, stop by. Theyre real easy to see with no motor in my car. But hurry, I plan to have it in (not necessarily running) this weekend.

My high-speed fan was coming on pretty early (definitely not 23x) w/out the A/C until recently - maybe the switch was going bad and now is dead? I thought the high-speed was a chip thing.

I'll have to see if I can come by and take a look at the fans. I'll bring my brother's "new" T by. It has a new motor in it built by the same guy that built your motor and mine.

Thanks for the reply - I'll drop you a line on arranging a visit.

Jim
 
Originally posted by 87natl
I had to make my own bracket and anchored it to the frame down on the passengers side, behind the battery. Just find yourself a good bar of flat iron and have at it!

I'm assuming you needed a longer braided hose to get to the up-pipe? If so, what size are the fittings and how long a hose did you use?

Also, FYI for those interested: the $139.99 kit is a UNIVERSAL wiring harness - not for TRs. I'm sending it back for the $79.99 fan/Buick-adapter combo special.

Jim
 
Good for you! These fans work great, mony WELL spent.

I'm still running the original braided line, with the tank set as far in front of the turbo heat shield as it will reach.

I DID go to a local spped shop and got a 3' section of braided line and the proper fittings for if/when I decide to relocate it. Possibly behind the bumper, or where the charcoal canister goes..

What I'd LIKE to do is relocate the battery to the trunk and rig up a larger container for alky in the battery location........
 
I finally got around to installing these fans today. Not exactly as easy as I had hoped, but not too tough either.

Found a small leak in my radiator so the whole thing is going to have to come out again anyway.

There are lots of methods out there for installing them but I chose the stickybones route because he was kind enough to send me his nicely put together Word document.

I know some folks "snap" them in between the tanks but I would have had to do a lot of trimming to do that. Because of the interference from the PS pump I was able to get the left side (right as you're standing there looking at it) against the radiator and up against the tank. The right side, though, is on top of the tank by about 1/8" of an inch. No big deal - not much air can get around it anywhere. It's a helluva lot tighter than the stock one was.

I used the stock bracket on the bottom and drilled new holes in the lower rad support. On the top I just bent some flat steel stock and used it to clamp the top in place (didn't drill into the fan on the top to actually attach the "brackets" I made).

I seem to have a lot more radiator showing at the top than the pics I've seen. There's about 3/4 to 1" of radiator between the top of the fans and the top of the fins. It's a Nick Micale radiator but I don't think it's any taller than stock.

With the CAS V4 it doesn't look like there's anywhere to put the SMC tank - if anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it.

I haven't actually run it yet. If the weather holds up I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. I changed the intake gaskets at the same time so I need to change the oil and put some antifreeze in it.

Just thought I'd report back.......

Jim
 
Originally posted by turbojimmy
I seem to have a lot more radiator showing at the top than the pics I've seen. There's about 3/4 to 1" of radiator between the top of the fans and the top of the fins.

Make that like 2 1/4" to 2 3/4" of rad showing. Seems like a lot, but there's not much to do about it. The fans are only as big as they are, and they're up just about as high as the stock bracket would put them (+/- 1/4"). Fans look crooked too now that I've given it another look, but it has to be the radiator or the rad support since the bracket is installed straight on the rad support. Things are a little bent up under there so I wouldn't be surprised.

Jim
 
My motor is .040 over and runs 180 all day, better replace that
stat. just because you put a new stat in it doesn't mean it's a good one, been there done that,
good luck
Vern
 
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