Wiring question?
- Thread starter Sleeper
- Start date
Yes t matters, the led with the red and black does not have a built in resistor. So if you hook it up to the +,- terminals going to the pump, you will cook it in short order. just ground the black and use the grey. My grey wire internally features a resistor just for this purpose. If you want to use the LED, you'll need to add a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor in-line with the red wire. And it may not reflect full brightness when the kit starts going.
Something trick is to connect a bulb across the +,- terminals.. then as the boost increases the intensity of the bulb increases. Typically on the GN, the bulb will be housed in the power injection hole of the dash. I never have had success using LED's to do this. Theyre brightness just doesnt change like a light bulb does.
HTH
Something trick is to connect a bulb across the +,- terminals.. then as the boost increases the intensity of the bulb increases. Typically on the GN, the bulb will be housed in the power injection hole of the dash. I never have had success using LED's to do this. Theyre brightness just doesnt change like a light bulb does.
HTH
Thanks Julio.
I already added a resistor to the LED off the red, but was just going over your wiring diagram and saw the instructions about the grey wire. I'm going to experiment with the bulb idea and see what I like best.
Just curious... Did I read correctly that the pump rarely receives a full 12V?
Paul
I already added a resistor to the LED off the red, but was just going over your wiring diagram and saw the instructions about the grey wire. I'm going to experiment with the bulb idea and see what I like best.
Just curious... Did I read correctly that the pump rarely receives a full 12V?
Paul
pump 101
Yup.. thats correct. The pump is overkill for what we do with it, actually 7-8 volts on a big nozzle will flow more than you'll probably ever need. And it allows for headroom in case the boost goes up, you can send more voltage and create more flow/pressure.
See another way too look at it, the pump has a pressure switch on top of it to limit pressure. By increasing the limit on the switch, and applying a lower voltage to the pump, it will never hit its pressure threshold. Hence the talk about bypassing the switch. I merely increase the pressure setting on it to a point whereby it rarely will ever have to run. 150 PSI is the pressure with the screw turned down on the pump. If you applied 12volts to the pump, it would cycle on/off/on at 150 PSI. At 6-8 volts it wont hit that its switch rev limiter. And run at much lower pressure without cycling. hence why you use a controller to control pressure
If you left the switch alone, then when the pump got to 60 PSI it would cycle on/off/on etc.. Wouldnt take but 4-5 volts to make it start cycling. Depending on nozzle used.
Yup.. thats correct. The pump is overkill for what we do with it, actually 7-8 volts on a big nozzle will flow more than you'll probably ever need. And it allows for headroom in case the boost goes up, you can send more voltage and create more flow/pressure.
See another way too look at it, the pump has a pressure switch on top of it to limit pressure. By increasing the limit on the switch, and applying a lower voltage to the pump, it will never hit its pressure threshold. Hence the talk about bypassing the switch. I merely increase the pressure setting on it to a point whereby it rarely will ever have to run. 150 PSI is the pressure with the screw turned down on the pump. If you applied 12volts to the pump, it would cycle on/off/on at 150 PSI. At 6-8 volts it wont hit that its switch rev limiter. And run at much lower pressure without cycling. hence why you use a controller to control pressure
If you left the switch alone, then when the pump got to 60 PSI it would cycle on/off/on etc.. Wouldnt take but 4-5 volts to make it start cycling. Depending on nozzle used.
