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Probably won't cure the problem, but get a new pcv anyway as it can only help general running.

Hello, I'm helping a friend whose 84 t-type is rusted beyond repair drop it into a nice 86 regal with a 307. The hotair car has a digital dash, the donor car has analog. We'd like to keep the analog dash in the car. My main question is, can we just swap the engine bay harness (from fuse block...

good one!

the straight one is the correct one. clean and reuse it if possible.

I was wondering if anyone else had problems running a newer neoprene style seal on the stock balancer. Mine seems to chew up seals, and I tend to think that the grooves on the stock balancer that were designed to work with a rope seal are the culprits. Has anyone tried putting a wear sleeve on...

go metal! For a hotair especially I'd get one of these: John's Performance

Excellent! Thanks very much!

I am currently a long way from my buick, could anyone possibly measure with calipers the diameter of the balancer where the oil seal runs? This would be a big help. TIA

Anyone tried Hastings oil filters? Hastings and Baldwin have the same address in Kearney, NE. Just wondered if Baldwin was the heavier duty line or if there was no difference.

whoops

a bad maf sensor will cause a tip in stumble. I got this info from bruce, and he was dead on the money.

Wow, I haven't seen pics of that setup in a while, good to see it complete. Fantastic job on the fabrication! Great mph too.

i like the gravity bleed method, because i'm lazy. open all the bleeders until a solid stream comes out of each, be sure to keep the open reservoir top full at all times

Not much is impossible, but you'd have to be a masochist in my opinion to not use some sort of heat exchanger, especially at that power level. would be a helluva lot easier.

Depends how many times you tried to start the motor, and how much it actually ran. it's likely that there was at least some small film of oil still on the journals. If you only tried a couple times then gave up, then I'd just prime the damn thing with the drill and forget about tearing into...

My best guess is, the engineers probably figured/realized that at stock boost/timing levels it didn't make a big enough difference to merit the extra cost of a more complex intake. most stuff comes down to cost of benefit.

I think I should point out that I did have the smoking problem, but in no way blame it on the hv pump. I know pretty much for a fact that it was a piss poor valve guide job.. so yes i did have smoking but after thinking about it I don't want to give the wrong impression that I thought it was...

28mm works nicely, should be the closest @ 1.102 vs. 1.125

in the front of the intake right behind the fuel pressure regulator there is an npt plug you can remove and install the fitting for the gauge. this is probably the most direct source.

unhook the wastegate