9.83 on street tires

ALblackT

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Yeah, i knew that might get your attention. That was in the eigth, at 77 mph.
My issue i think is i cant build any boost off the line, and it takes me 100 feet to get 15 lbs.
My question is, would a stall fix this problem? And if so, about high of stall is NOT too high
for the street. I drive the car to the track, make a few passes and drive home. I do not daily
drive it.

And before somone asks, what size turbo, I just dont know and really dont want to open it to find out.
I have gotten hints that it might be a '49'. but it has a large precision exhaust side.

Thanks for any info
 
Have you verified you have a stock D5 converter in the car? What's the stall of the converter that's in there now?
 
It help me. I had a 2800 p t c Lu with a 49 I would foot break 15-16 lb on a full radial tire it would blow them off but was fun.

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Have you verified you have a stock D5 converter in the car? What's the stall of the converter that's in there now?

I haven't pulled the tranny to look at it, but I can't get more than 1400 to 1500 rpm holding both pedals to the floor. And it's definitely a 12 inch.

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It help me. I had a 2800 p t c Lu with a 49 I would foot break 15-16 lb on a full radial tire it would blow them off but was fun.

That will most likely be my next purchase. But I think I'll go with a non lu. Did you tell them to make it a 2800? Never bought a stall before. Just clutches


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Contact Chris Hogeland or Dusty Bradford
on the board for the right converter. I think around a 2800 stall would be close but I am not a expert by no means lol
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So you race your car, want to possibly change your stall ( which would require you to remove the tranny) but you dont want to figure out what size your turbo is? As long as you own this car, it is your responsibility to learn as much as you can about it. It helps to keep your interest and motivation up. Are you running the factory boost gauge or aftermarket? What size is your exhaust housing (should be embossed on the housing)? A .85 gave me more top end, the .69 was a hard pull start to finish and the .58 blew street tires away at will but didnt have that put me in the seat top end pull. Also at the track how much are you able to build on the line as you footbrake it? Converter info + turbo info + cam info = better understanding
 
I have no problem removing the tranny to install a convertor. I dont want to disassemble the turbo, something that ive never done before, and not be able to put it back together.
The exhaust housing is a .63 the compressor side is .60. Autometer boost guage, i MIGHT have gotten 2 lbs on the footbrake, 17 max. The cam sounds stock. BUT i havent heard any Turbo 6s with or without a cam in years and years. I was told the chip in my car was set up for a 214/214 cam, wether or not it was changed, or was ever in there, i dont know.
From the launch, i get a chirp, then after 60 feet im at about 10 psi, then another 20 or 30 im maxed at 17. shift to 2nd hazes the tires for 50+feet, then third through the trap.
 
yeah, the converter thats in it has been painted silver. No idea why but i knew it had been swapped out
 
Short, very fuzzy video

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Almost looks like one of my runs - cept my car you can sit there, mash the gas, make zero boost on the footbrake, launch and count '1 mississippi....2 mississippi' then start building boost. Converter will make a huge difference as long as you figure out what turbo you're playing with. :)
 
A stall will help but before doing that pull the downpipe and make sure the waste gate puck is sealing and check the lines to the boost control solenoid


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My boost control solenoid is hanging loose, disconnected. Can it be eliminated some how?

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A data log of the launch will help in taking a look at the tune...It's not only the converter that may an issue, a poor tune will also make it a dog...
Look around the edge of the converter for stamped lettering/numbers.
 
Power logger is on my list of things to get. I just haven't made it that far down the list yet:oops:

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My boost control solenoid is hanging loose, disconnected. Can it be eliminated some how?

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It may already be bypassed post a pic


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If it is supposed to be inline with the waste gate actuator, it has been. I'll get a picture when I get home

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1374529205934.jpg


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