Aftermarket TQ arm question

Joined
Feb 25, 2013
So I've been hearing different things about replacing the stock arm with a performance aftermarket arm. Will any f-body 82-92 tq arm work for our cars? Considering we have the 200r4 and they all typically have the 700.. my question is will it work? let me know thanks a lot. or do i have to buy the 200r4 cross member tq arm off spoon?
__________________
 
So I've been hearing different things about replacing the stock arm with a performance aftermarket arm. Will any f-body 82-92 tq arm work for our cars? Considering we have the 200r4 and they all typically have the 700.. my question is will it work? let me know thanks a lot. or do i have to buy the 200r4 cross member tq arm off spoon?
__________________
I think any stock replacement torque arm will work. I would call Spohn, or Umi direct though.
 
Spohn stock replacement.
 

Attachments

  • 1422050823277.jpg
    1422050823277.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 119
I've tried talking to people there and they said it would work i guess just the replacement i was wondering if anyone actually tried it
 
I have the Pro series torque arm with the aftermarket cross member. It's absolutely awesome! It was big money though. Like $800
 
yeah but all those guys have 700s probably. they wouldn't know if it works with our cars. maybe ill try. if it comes down to it ill just buy the standard series tq arm with cross member for $4oo. but if i can just get a regular tq it would only be $300 or a used one for around $200. ill find out thanks again
 
yeah but all those guys have 700s probably. they wouldn't know if it works with our cars. maybe ill try. if it comes down to it ill just buy the standard series tq arm with cross member for $4oo. but if i can just get a regular tq it would only be $300 or a used one for around $200. ill find out thanks again
Good point. I think the torque arms are the same, but the cross members are different. Anything you put on it will be better than stock. If you change the cross member you'll also lose all of the isolating bushings. They help a ton with vibration
 
The standard without cross member replaces the stock torque arm, if you go with torque arm and cross member there is one listed for the 200-4-R for both standard and Pro. I have the Spohn chrome moly Pro torque arm and cross member but haven't installed them yet. Unless you are planing on breaking into the 9's or faster the standard torque arm will be fine...or if you don't mind spending the additional money.

Another option is to box in the stock torque arm and replace the trans/cross member and trans/torque arm mount with poly mounts...and save yourself a bunch of $'s.

I think sub frame connectors, good lower control arms, panhard bar and good quality rear drag shocks is way more important than replacing the factory torque arm. If you haven't addressed them yet I'd start there and then decide if you need/want the torque arm.

My car had stock cross member, torque arm, rear springs, "no" subframe connectors (I do have them just not installed yet and have been lucky), dead front struts a with front sway bar installed and TRZ dbl adj rear control arms, adj. UMI panhard bar, and Strange dbl adj rear drag shocks. I launched the car at 16 psi off the transbrake and cut consistent 1.48 60' with MT DR's and the car lifted the front tires 6"-10" perfectly flat and went straight as an arrow.
 
Last edited:
The standard without cross member replaces the stock torque arm, if you go with torque arm and cross member there is one listed for the 200-4-R for both standard and Pro. I have the chrome moly Pro torque arm and cross member but haven't installed it yet. Unless you are planing on breaking into the 9's or faster the standard torque arm will be fine...or if you don't mind spending the additional money.
Scott I have the same cro moly torque with the cross member. It's such a bad ass part. Does hang pretty low in the back though. The cross member hangs pretty low too. I'm at stock ride height, and I've scraped the cross member a couple of times. After install I did have a major problem with vibration. Spohn said it was normal, and I had to deal with it. To fix it I put thick strips of rubber in place of the real thin strips that they send with it. Made it almost like stock again.
 
Yeah I saw the thin rubber strip, good to know before installing the crossmember...mine is sitting in the garage floor along with, new Spohn rear dbl adj lowers, panhard bar, anti-roll bar and control arm relocation brackets plus a set of UMI subframe connectors all waiting to go in with the new engine. I also did the full chrome moly Spohn k-member w/tubular lower control arms and Pro-Drag front coilover setup too...now installed. My old setup with the TRZ dbl adj lower control arms and HR Parts & Stuff poly engine mounts had plenty of vibration but I figure that goes with the territory and really doesn't bother me anymore. Planning on a cage in the next month and will have them instal the subframe connectors then.
 
Well the vibration might not be a problem for you with the new motor. Bo changed his cross member, and had no extra vibration. My motor is stock, so I'm thinking that's why. I put Metco Billet non adjustable lowers on mine with the relocation brackets, and it knocked the rear thrust angle out of whack. Took awhile to figure out, cuz it would drive perfectly straight until I was accelerating. Then the front end was skating all over. Temporarily I shimmed up the relocation bracket where the shock bolt goes through, and got the thrust angle perfectly at 0 again. I'm going to they it without the brackets to see if they are the problem, or if it's the way everything was welded up on my 9".
 
Yeah my car has/had a very distinct vibration around 1800-2500 rpm if I recall then smooths out...the new motor is internally balanced so hopefully that is gone. The TRZ adjustable rear lowers are very noisy since it's metal on metal...but again I got used to them, the Spohn's are basically identical so I'm sure they will be the same. I was going to go with the Del-Sphere ends for less vibration but think I'm going to take advantage of the available offset bushings on the heim joint ends for more wheel/tire clearance. I have a Curry 9" that I hope to get in this summer so i won't mess with the anti-roll bar and relocation brackets until that is in since they both are weld on.
 
Top