your first problem besides loosing your vacum if you added this ester oil with your r12 oil there might not be enough room in system for all that oil an a/c system willonly hold so much oil& refregerant you put to much in your psi reading go sky high. thus not allowing you to add more r134. proper retro conv change drier, orffice, flush system, evac system, recharge its the oils that are not compatable.but i have done cars like your doing exept loosing evac. 2cars same model side by side one worked good other didnt pull your orfice and look at it that will tell you alot.mike
Air Conditioning Issue - R134 Coversion - AC guys please step inside
- Thread starter 8UWITH6
- Start date
your first problem besides loosing your vacum if you added this ester oil with your r12 oil there might not be enough room in system for all that oil an a/c system willonly hold so much oil& refregerant you put to much in your psi reading go sky high. thus not allowing you to add more r134. proper retro conv change drier, orffice, flush system, evac system, recharge its the oils that are not compatable.but i have done cars like your doing exept loosing evac. 2cars same model side by side one worked good other didnt pull your orfice and look at it that will tell you alot.mike
This may sound like I'm agrivating you but I have had an issue with the cheap aluminum adapters not working properly. Also if you're using a cheap recharge hose they don't flow worth sh!t and this could also be the problem. Either way you need to pull a vac. R-134 reacts with moisture and air and can damage the system.
i dont know if your talking to me or not but the aluminum fittings i have used alot with hardly no trouble now i get mine from an a/c supply house. and no my way of evac&charge a/c system is with a snap on act4500 machine it doesnot have cheap a/c hoses on it.ive worked in rad&a/c shop for over 20yrs family owned.done 100s of retro fits. but there always more than one way to skin a cat
meaning lots people do a/c work different ways this is just what works for us mikesorry for the misunderstanding what kind problem you having like i said before ive used several with hardly no issue ford or mopar i always get the kit with like 5 each and your caps i have had an issue with a couple of hondas though thanks again for your input in your pm mike
Check your hoses and adapters, air has nothing to do with it not taking a charge, air will run up head pressure and it wont work as good. System dose need evacuated for proper charge. You should of added r12, your system was not that low......
Thank you on the air comment. I agree. Everything I have been studying is pointing to a restriction in the system. Im changing the orifice tube monday.
I chose to convert for the sole purpose of instead of adding 2 cans of R12 at 40 bux each year after year, I could spend 6-8 bux. There is a small leak in the system and right now I dont have the time or money to chase it. Call me crazy, its a daily driver to and from work. Just need the AC to blow cold for when the little man is with me in the car.
I used BRASS fittings, not the cheesy aluminum ones.
Mind you I have done this MANY times before and never had a problem. Ive done it many different ways as well. From MY experience Im going to trying this the 1st time w/o doing the dryer. IF I have an issue I will consider doing that.
It is clear that my system has a restriction, and this should be confirmed tomorrow.
Dabigguy, no I dont even know who you are talking about. Yes I asked for advice on the issue of my system not taking a charge, and freezing the orifice line, not whether I should change the dryer or orifce. But just so we are clear EVERYONE's input is appreciated, thank you.
just trying to help here but you pulled 2lb of r12 out and system was not freezing up at that time.pulled vacum put oil with 2oz of freon in would not take anymore freon and its freezing up at orfice with 2oz freon? if it was a fitting problem i wouldnt think it would take the ester oil and 2oz or how is it freezing up with 2oz freon keep us informed mike. ps the cheep aluminum fittings you would not lost your vacum. high side just adapts for gauge uses same schrader valve. low side pushes on excesting schrader valve. what is psi reading high low side with 2oz freon freezing up
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
+1 This is The Proper way...
Air= H2O, hydrgen condenses to water and oxygen causes coorosion-think about why air is not good for a ac system.Air also will raise the high side head pressure thus one of the reasons for a high pressure switch to cut off compressure before it explodes!
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Recover the R-134A and replace the accumulator. The accumulator contains at dessicant (MOISTURE ABSORBER) and really should be replace on such an old car.
Next, you need a deep vacuum......preferably 30 minutes or longer. This removes ALL the air and also removes moisture.
You should never charge a system that is at atmospheric pressure. Even a couple of seconds to change over the fittings fills the system with AIR! Air is considered an NON-condensable gas (contamination) and raises system pressures. The non-condensable gas will make the system less efficient and will end up damaging your compressor in the long run.
Why are you using ester? GM recommends PAG oil with all R-134A conversions. Almost all OEMs use PAG with R-134A. Is there some reason that you need Ester over PAG?
I've converted MANY Regals to R-134a and never replaced the orfice......in fact GM never recommended an orfice change when converting to R-134A. Its just not needed in this application unless its full of debris.
In case you don't think I know what I'm talking about, I have 23 years of GM engineering experience with GM AC systems, I'm a certified ASE Master Tech and now a College automotive instructor teaching AC repair.
If you need more help, don't hesitate to PM me.
Dave
Next, you need a deep vacuum......preferably 30 minutes or longer. This removes ALL the air and also removes moisture.
You should never charge a system that is at atmospheric pressure. Even a couple of seconds to change over the fittings fills the system with AIR! Air is considered an NON-condensable gas (contamination) and raises system pressures. The non-condensable gas will make the system less efficient and will end up damaging your compressor in the long run.
Why are you using ester? GM recommends PAG oil with all R-134A conversions. Almost all OEMs use PAG with R-134A. Is there some reason that you need Ester over PAG?
I've converted MANY Regals to R-134a and never replaced the orfice......in fact GM never recommended an orfice change when converting to R-134A. Its just not needed in this application unless its full of debris.
In case you don't think I know what I'm talking about, I have 23 years of GM engineering experience with GM AC systems, I'm a certified ASE Master Tech and now a College automotive instructor teaching AC repair.
If you need more help, don't hesitate to PM me.
Dave
Dave, thanks for your response. I did the vacuum down today after replacing the O/T and accumulator. Shut it off and it held for 30-45 mins. Charged system pressures looked good, (very hot today), went for a drive and blew the evaporator line going to the accumulator. Im very frustrated at this point. I dont know what Im going to do next. I did this to try and save money in the long run, and it ultimately is screwing me now..................... such is life............
I removed and re-installed the accumulator today. Found that the evaporator tube was not tight enough. Re-installed, vacuumed down the system, charged it with 2 lbs, 6 oz of R134a. Car is blowing 50* air out of the center vent at idle at 200* coolant temps. Blowing just over 40* at highway speeds. 95 + degrees today in Kansas City............................... Im happy................
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
Congrats on the cold A/C...........finally:tongue:
1st time brought a buddy a case of beer.
2nd time did it at work.
Thanks dailydrifter, its nice to not sweat my ass off now............
