Am I cetting closer with my #??

[Martin U]

Was wondering if you folks could take a gander at these files. I did add some 104 just in case things went bad. From this point on I'll only be using alky & 93oct. Yesterday I lost my map connection which caused no alky & boost readings. I'm at about 75% of understanding what I should be doing???-MAYBE.
I still do not understand the concept of adding/removing fuel & alky, and how they work together. BUT fixing the crossover from hitting helped a TON,

One of the files is just at cruise, the other is WFO alky at about 3.
AND using "right stuff on the MAF pipe broight the BLM down to 138?
Set up is in my sig.
Thanks for the feed back.
Mart Urbanski

PS. Timing is a whole new rats nest for me. I want to get it decent before I try the track

 

[Boost231]

i will look at the logs but before i do, keep the alky knob on 6. anything lower and the pump becomes lazy. put it on 6 and we will tune from there.

 

[Boost231]

ok, things i see.

is the plx reading right? it hold 10.00 pretty damn well. i dont think its right but if it is, we need to lean it out some.

also what MAF are you running? if its a stock MAF looks alittle lazy to me. might want to get a new one or go to a ls1 setup.

also its time for an injector upgrade but we can hold off. adding alky will bring the duty cycle down but you really dont have much area to grow. your at 95.3% at the top of the log. adding more alky will bring it down for now.

what the timing at on the chip? kinda weird to see it at 16 deg at WOT in 2nd but not sure if its do to the MAF values being low, also we need to see if we can get rid of the 2 spots where there is knock. turning the alky up will tell if its real or not. once the alky is up we can pull fuel to get the a/f back on spot.

thats what i see for now. its late so im alittle out of it.

 

[Martin U]

I just reordered a new analog pin & plug for the plx, I questioned that when the WB trace wouldn't move much from 14.xx unless i played with the wires.
At one point I lost the MAF input, which of course wouldnt turn the alky on-those were some spikes. looked at all the wiring and could not find anything other than the suspect plx wire. The rest of the wiring now looks OK to me. But my buddy told me I am only allowed to play with small batteries.
I did notice the 10.0 right away,I didn't know what to make of it, good or bad,that's why I'm asking. I can't have 15hrs on the PLX & sensor.
The maf is stock, 87. I started to turn the alky DOWN trying to find out where the knock was going to start then start to turn it up from there.
It is a TT alcy chip, I unplugged the ecm just to clear any changes I had made before getting these readings.
Mind you I put 10gal of 104 just to be safe while doing this. I plan on 93 only in the future. I did get rid of massive false knock when I adjusted the pipes today.
I believe there is a lot in it IF I can learn to tune. Then I'll post some of those HOT-AIR numbers everyone seems to be waiting for.
Mart

 

[Martin U]

I took it out again last night, after I turned it up to 6-7. and got like.5KR from a stand still, not worried about that bumps across the intersection The 10. is rich correct?FP line off is 42-42 near as I can read the fogged up gauge.
I also tried a auto-meter FP gauge and it was off 5# from my Casper. How should i lean it out some at WFO In the TT chip,FP,Or turn up the boost. What are some of the wot # should i be looking at with PLX WB & Power logger.
If I roll into third I get no knock @ 23#boost. I'd like to stay around that number if possible. What do I look for a lazy MAF?
Here I one more file. I have ti say this is pulling hard through100mph, But slow to spool.
Here is a newer file

 

[Martin U]

more tuning ??

Well I brought the boost up 2 more lbs. NO problems. I did have one bad KR spike-got out of it, seems OK. That 10.0 WB reading is starting to waiver,but not much.
One thing that is bugging the heck out of me is I can't fry the tires from a stand still any more Hits about 5lbs boost and stays there?? What fun is that It will turn em Pretty good hitting 2nd. I'll never make another burnout contest at this rate-------------HELP
Marty

 

[Eric Stage I]

You can start reducing WOT fuel using the chip adjustment to get the A/F into the 10.5 to 11.0 area. If you start to get knock, then add a little fuel back.

 

[Martin U]

Thanks eric.
Should I start with say -5% At wot. So Im guessing I'm Running to rich
right now? Love the way I can stay into it, but missing the burnout. I guess this is where I start getting into the finer points of tuning.
Thank you for taking the time to help. What about timing, should i play with that?
marty

 

[Eric Stage I]

Yes, start with -5% and go from there. I would not change timing yet. Wait until you have the A/F straightened out and decided on a final boost level.

Not sure any of that will help with spool though. That's usually a wastgate or torque converter issue, but we'll see.

 

[Boost231]

Whatr converter do you have? that seems really slow on the spool up with that small turbo. also i would back the boost down and start out slower. at one point in that data log i saw 28.3 psi of boost. wow slow downnnn. i would lower the boost to 20 and then i agree with eric. pull some fuel and lets get it close to 11.00 a/f from there we can get inot the timing etc. also we need to find the spool problem. you have any exhaust leaks? is the turbo in good shape?

 

[Martin U]

It seems to creep up on the boost after about 23#. I took about 2 full turns out of the waste gate last night. The converter is stock d-5. I've never had a problem before with it before. If my memory serves me right (doubtful) it is a HD wastegate. I did just readjust my crossover pipe to get rid of some false knock. ALL the pipes are ATR. I do have to say that it has never ran this good with so little knock. The turbo was from Precision brand new.It may be older, but not a lot of miles,1 street race,few burnout-trying to get rid of old tires. Some wot tuning runs. And a couple of trips to woodward dream cruise.
I try not to beat on it,I don't want to build another one. So I did build it as strong as I could. I was also told the the converter was fine for the ta-49 on the street. It will squawk in all 3 gears.
I'll bring it back down to 20lbs boost, -5%fuel,Timing no change. I'll post new log asap.
My right stuff cobb job on my MAF pipe did bring the BLM's down to 138.
If there is any more info you need ask, because I don't know what to tell you.
I can't believe the new TA's Have that much grip.

 

[Boost231]

i would change the wastegate out. using a HD gate is hard when running low boost #'s. the only way to get the boost low enough causes spool and boost issues since the flaper is always open. i think for what you are doing, running a stock wastegate (adjustable) and putting alittle tension on it will be better then running the HD one. do you have any tension on the gate as of right now? if not thats probley your problem

 

[Martin U]

At this point I'm not sure what WG I have, I do know it is only running one hose directly to the turbo(precision said that is the way to go)
It is adjustable and I do have a lot of tension on it. # from the wast gate are
430819-39
08049
25647. I tried to keep all my receipts for everything I have ,but I can't find that one. Turned boost down to 20#&removed -10% fuel. Still won't get off that 10.0mark by much. Did have one bad KR spike out of know where?
But it did light up the tires this time.
I have to say I'm getting nervous about taking fuel out. The NB 02"s look weak to me. As I mentioned before I tried a Autometer FP gauge and it was off about 5lbs. Could the caspers gauge be wrong?
Here is my last romp 20# boost 42-44 F line off. -10% wot fuel all gears
PLX told me their units only run between 10-20. This thing used to go sideways through 2 gears?? We are getting better right? AND Thank you for teaching me these things, you are a big help both of you!

 

[Boost231]

since you lowered your boost its going to be richer then it was. so pulling 10 did some but if the boost was still at 25+ it would have been more of a difference. i can't look at the logs but i will when i get home. im just talking, anyways i would pull the downpipe and check to see how the puck is sealing, it seems like your good as far as the tension on it so lets make sure its sealing to the housing fully.

without looking at the log was it false knock? if its a small blip of knock we can add a tuch of alky to take it away. lets leave the boost at 20 from here on out. we will get the a/f in the correct area and without knock. then we can up it to where you want it. hope this helps some

 

[Boost231]

didnt have to much time to look at your log but it seems like pulling fuel helped. its coming off of 10.00 a/f. pull 5% or so and see where it goes. also we need to find out where that knock is coming from. i see a spot where i believe its false. some areas im not sure. looks good so far. from here on out when you do pulls hold it in 3rd and roll into it from say 50-55 as long as it doesn't kick down. then stay WOT to you fell you need to shut it down. this will give up better consistant logs.

 

[Martin U]

I'd be more than happy to do that! Ya that huge spike came from nowhere.

 

[Martin U]

New log file --Long

This log is long but it does have at least 2 wfo runs in it. I had to make one run up the e-way to check for the staties.
I left the boost alone 20-21, I did reset ecm drove around a bit then pulled a total of 15% fuel. Left it in drive from a 60mph roll. I keep getting these 1.2 blips of KR and ideas on that.
You guy sure are a big help, I'm starting to get it, but far from making all the right calls for now.

 

[Martin U]

WB wot AF # ??

I can't believe I'm pulling 15% fuel @ 23lbs boost. Should I swap out my old FP gauge? I tried some pep boys cheepy and was 5lbs from my Casper gauge.
Please have another look at my files.

 

[Boost231]

looking pretty good. your a/f is getting pretty close to where we need it. We need to work on the knock. either one turn down the boost and see if it goes away if so its true knock or put some good gas in it and leave the boost where its at and try a pull. if the knock is still there its false and we need to track it down. where making progress how does the car fell?

 

[Martin U]

Well the car feels good,pulls hard without running out of steam. I'm currently running just about a 75% mix of 104 & 93oct. I have turned up the boost 2 lbs because I was showing just a tap of Knock for no reason. After going over these logs I've noticed that my Autometer boost gauge stays at about 20 lbs, but the PL shows a few pounds more???? Never had that before. I've spiked the gauge at 30#+ before. I'll see if it is bleeding off pressure some where.
I am wondering about the sense why I'm pulling so much fuel but my BLM's are at or around 138-141=lean at idle. Every line,joint,seal has been checked for leaks and I've found nothing. Last year i pulled the intake ,just to make sure the new one was sealed real good.
Those 1.2 spikes,never seen a light on my knock gauge move, heard or felt anything.
What do you thing about switching the FP gauge out, resetting base FP , turning down boost & see what i get without taking out so much fuel in the chip.
This has me concerned ,because don't understand why I'm pulling fuel,when in my mind I should be adding fuel .
How much do you think the ATR pipes,GN1 heads, ported intake, 206 cam come into play with this. I'm just need to understand WHY things do the things they do.
I'll keep the 104 in it until i learn to tune it and what to watch out for, Then I'll start all over again with 93oct. I want to get it running the best and safest tune I can because i would love to get it to the strip, I just don't want to tow it home.
Mart,
Again thanks for your time and effort.