boost question

[randy winn]

I have 87 gn with te44 turbo wil only make 20# boost I cant find any vac or exh leaks have rjc boost cont. will go to 20# quick then stop. from what ive read this turbo should make more than this. the engine is fairly new bored 30 with comp 206/206 roller cam alky lt1 maf 60# inj. ttchip slic heads are stock with comp 941 springs. would like to get 25# any help would be appreciated

 

[1fastcobra]

U may need a heavy duty actuator

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[Bescurred]

Is your wastegate a HD?

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[randy winn]

yes just put new hd actuator on also checked puck moves freely

 

[Steve V]

How is the puck in relation to hole size in the housing? 44 will make way more than that. You may have a preturbo exhaust leak.

 

[1fastcobra]

Take off the rjc controller
Hook it up like factory.
And use the rod to adjust
I have the same issues.
Was the rjc unit

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[randy winn]

do you mean put the y connection back on

 

[1fastcobra]

Yes

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[randy winn]

had the headers and downpipe off couple months ago put new copper gaskets on checked puck looked good

 

[randy winn]

ok ill try that thank you fastcobra

 

[wiseman]

Subscribed. I am having the same issue. I have a rjc boost controller, but a TA-61 Turbo. Please keep us updated.....

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[TTA308]

Take off the rjc controller
Hook it up like factory.
And use the rod to adjust
I have the same issues.
Was the rjc unit

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interesting....

 

[dpasadena]

I have 87 gn with te44 turbo wil only make 20# boost I cant find any vac or exh leaks have rjc boost cont. will go to 20# quick then stop. from what ive read this turbo should make more than this. the engine is fairly new bored 30 with comp 206/206 roller cam alky lt1 maf 60# inj. ttchip slic heads are stock with comp 941 springs. would like to get 25# any help would be appreciated

Shorten the actuator rod. You need more tension on the puck to keep it closed longer. The rjc controller is not the problem. I would try 4 turns shorter to start. It may take more to get to your target boost

 

[1fastcobra]

Shorten the actuator rod. You need more tension on the puck to keep it closed longer. The rjc controller is not the problem. I would try 4 turns shorter to start. It may take more to get to your target boost

I have to disagree
First thing a did was shorten the rod
Almost 5-6 full turns in with no change pulled the rjc part off . Put it back to the stock noid and I had to turn the rod back out
Because the boost went from 19psi to 28psi
The rjc controller is known to leak
Ive gone through at least 5 of them


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[dpasadena]

I have to disagree
First thing a did was shorten the rod
Almost 5-6 full turns in with no change pulled the rjc part off . Put it back to the stock noid and I had to turn the rod back out
Because the boost went from 19psi to 28psi
The rjc controller is known to leak
Ive gone through at least 5 of them


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I have to disagree
First thing a did was shorten the rod
Almost 5-6 full turns in with no change pulled the rjc part off . Put it back to the stock noid and I had to turn the rod back out
Because the boost went from 19psi to 28psi
The rjc controller is known to leak
Ive gone through at least 5 of them


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Well you actually sold me one of your rjc controllers and somehow it works perfectly. I have used these controllers before without issue. Sometimes 5-6 turns on the actuator does nothing. I have noticed this on a few cars. Every car seems to be different though. I have never used the stock solenoid for controlling boost. Sometimes I would have to turn the rod 10-12 times to get to my target. Trial and error. And I only use the rjc controller to aid in spool up and use the tension in the actuator to determine my boost.

 

[1fastcobra]

Well you actually sold me one of your rjc controllers and somehow it works perfectly. I have used these controllers before without issue. Sometimes 5-6 turns on the actuator does nothing. I have noticed this on a few cars. Every car seems to be different though. I have never used the stock solenoid for controlling boost. Sometimes I would have to turn the rod 10-12 times to get to my target. Trial and error. And I only use the rjc controller to aid in spool up and use the tension in the actuator to determine my boost.

Yes sir the only ones I have ever sold
Have been 2 of them
One new . And one put on just to test
Not saying there all bad
Just never had any good luck with them
Over 20psi.


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[dpasadena]

Yes sir the only ones I have ever sold
Have been 2 of them
One new . And one put on just to test
Not saying there all bad
Just never had any good luck with them
Over 20psi.


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All the cars I use the rjc controller on have alky and boost ranges from 25-32psi. I set the controller to crack open about 20psi or so and let the actuator control the final boost. Always have had good luck doing it this way. I have no experience with the factory boost control

 

[robzombie]

It could also be a bad HD actuator.

I had mine bottomed out and could only get 20 lbs. until I put another one on and now boost is where I want it in the 25/26 range.

BTW the old one tested good with no air leakage in the diaphragm so it may have been that the spring was weak and why I didn't condemn it after checking all the usual stuff first.

If all other solutions fail I would get a new actuator, it drove me nuts for over a month trying to find the exact issue posted here.

It seems the 20 lb. limit is a common problem that a lot of people experience. If you bottom out the rod and have no leaks the actuator is likely the problem if you had 25 lbs. before and now can't get it.

I figured I would post this in hopes that if others experience what I did this may help them from chasing their tails for a month or longer like I did.

 

[randy winn]

I am going to try tightening rod this evening if that doesn't work could I wire the puck closed to see if spring is weak thank everyone for the help

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

had the headers and downpipe off couple months ago put new copper gaskets on checked puck looked good

If you placed a copper gasket between the downpipe flange and the turbo exhaust flange, remove it. It will interfere with the internal WG. Just use a thin smear of copper RTV as a sealant.

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