Bought a '85 T-type, help me spend my money!

If that thing is leaking it is definitely a problem, big vacuum leak. that could definitely cause your blms to go up.....you can get an EGR blockoff plate from one of the popular vendors.
 
Wahoo said:
Regarding the waste gate, I just made that video quick, I do have a c clip on it. And when the car is running the rod pulls in since it has vacuum on the one side of the wastegate. That's the thing though, its like i need someone to take a picture and show me how long their wastegate rod is, because I feel like this rod is very long, but thats because I'm trying not to overboost.

When I first set up the wastegate rod i closed the wastegate all the way and made the rod the exact length to reach it, and it over boosted to like 20psi. So this time I made it real long, maybe too long but it built a few psi and then just stumbled. It sucks be ause every time I go to work on it, the sun is going down and I have to use flashlights, I can't see if the exhaust is rich while I'm driving.. Just frustrating.

Maybe its because I'm using the stock '85 maf with the 86/87 ecm(stock chip). Also don't have the air temp sensor hooked up yet.

I hope I didnt fool this new o2 yet, I don't have a code for I but it sometimes doesn't cross count that high.
Also would fouling he o2 make it think its not getting enough fuel causing the high int and blms?

I wonder if i fouled the plugs too...ugh how big of a pain in the ass are they on these hot airs to change.
Click to expand...
Running this ECM configuration without the mat/iat sensor will cause the ECM to see a high resistance value for the missing sensor, which it will see as -40F. This will cause a rich condition. Two ways to fix this, add the sensor or order the TT chip without the mat option. Talk with Eric at TT, he knows what to do. You may still possibly have a bad mass air sensor, you wanted to spend some money so here you go, go buy a new sensor, i recommend stock 86/87 because it will flow enough to get the car into the 11s. This will prevent you from buying a translator that you won't know how to tune or use. I have read several times in this forum to not upgrade any stock parts to performance parts when the car doesn't run correctly as is, for the most part I agree with this, especially for a green horn like yourself. Btw sounds like you got the over boost stopped, time to adjust the rod shorter, little by little until the boost gets too@9-10. FYI that ECM/ chip you have now is designed for intercooler, that you don't have and 15 psi of boost, and the timing curve is not gonna be correct for you ha setup. It will be to agressive so don't be surprised if you get knock retard at low boost levels. Your gonna need a chip programmed for your setup to get the best power and drive ability from you current setup. This will affect blms and ints.


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GMTECH12002 said:
Running this ECM configuration without the mat/iat sensor will cause the ECM to see a high resistance value for the missing sensor, which it will see as -40F. This will cause a rich condition. Two ways to fix this, add the sensor or order the TT chip without the mat option. Talk with Eric at TT, he knows what to do. You may still possibly have a bad mass air sensor, you wanted to spend some money so here you go, go buy a new sensor, i recommend stock 86/87 because it will flow enough to get the car into the 11s. This will prevent you from buying a translator that you won't know how to tune or use. I have read several times in this forum to not upgrade any stock parts to performance parts when the car doesn't run correctly as is, for the most part I agree with this, especially for a green horn like yourself. Btw sounds like you got the over boost stopped, time to adjust the rod shorter, little by little until the boost gets too@9-10. FYI that ECM/ chip you have now is designed for intercooler, that you don't have and 15 psi of boost, and the timing curve is not gonna be correct for you ha setup. It will be to agressive so don't be surprised if you get knock retard at low boost levels. Your gonna need a chip programmed for your setup to get the best power and drive ability from you current setup. This will affect blms and ints.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Click to expand...

I have a translator, its not installed yet, also have an LT1 Maf on its way.

The scan master shows the air temp sensor reading 71 at all times? It doesn't have a code and it just stays steady at 71. I'd like to install the sensor and wire it in the harness, not sure how to tackle it just yet... Any tips?

I think the over boosting issue might of caused the egr gasket to leak, since its a lot of boost but idk
 
Wahoo said:
I have a translator, its not installed yet, also have an LT1 Maf on its way.

The scan master shows the air temp sensor reading 71 at all times? It doesn't have a code and it just stays steady at 71. I'd like to install the sensor and wire it in the harness, not sure how to tackle it just yet... Any tips?

I think the over boosting issue might of caused the egr gasket to leak, since its a lot of boost but idk
Click to expand...
your probably correct about the egr leak from overboost, and i just unplugged my mat sensor and my scanmaster shows 71 also, this must be a default the scanmaster shows when the mat is open, however the ecm still sees this sensor as -40f. as far as wiring in the sensor, its just 2 wires and im sure someone has schematics to show you which terminals in the ecm connector these 2 wires go to. post a thread seperate asking for the wiring schematic. btw if you reseal the egr with a block off, and still have a leak around this area, you may have damaged the intake gasket
 
I'd get a newer maf and hook the translator up and see what happens. You can use almost any gm maf. So if you got like a 3100 maf car (series II) or 3400 grand am. Lots of them out there.
 
one thing i noticed in reading... is you have to be sure the parts you are looking at are 84/85 specific in some instances... you mentioned the egr block off only having one bolt that is 86/87 configuration. also a vacume leak at the egr could also include the hard tube that goes to the back or the manifold just below the turbo.
as for vacume lines. you have to be aware that there are two seperrate areas that they may be hooked up any thing hooked to the ports on the throttle body are vacume only no boost. the base of the turbo and back of manifold are manifold pressure both boost and vacume
 
bobs84ttype said:
one thing i noticed in reading... is you have to be sure the parts you are looking at are 84/85 specific in some instances... you mentioned the egr block off only having one bolt that is 86/87 configuration. also a vacume leak at the egr could also include the hard tube that goes to the back or the manifold just below the turbo.
as for vacume lines. you have to be aware that there are two seperrate areas that they may be hooked up any thing hooked to the ports on the throttle body are vacume only no boost. the base of the turbo and back of manifold are manifold pressure both boost and vacume
Click to expand...


That is good information there, lines on throttle body are vacuum only and turbo and intake see vacuum and boost!

That is one thing I couldn't find reading everywhere I searched, I just figured that on my own since my car has vacuum brake conversion.

Regarding the egr, thats another thing, I don't get how some of this info is not in stickies or in treads. Everyone who has done the egr block off doesnt give enough details. It's like people reply to threads without reading people questions. I keep finding people just posting simple non dicriptive information like, " I fab'd my own block off plate", " I used RTV".

So is it a good thing I didnt buy one of the block off plates listed above? My car is an 85, it is not listed anywhere that intercooled egrs are different?

Those posts do not help much. Like its called exhaust gas recirculation, so if I plug the intake what about the exhaust? How do I plug that? Also no one takes pictures of the completed task.
 
my intake with my fabbed block off plate and inverted flare plug purchased at hose supply
Picture 012.jpg
Picture 012.jpg
 
Champion racing heads sells an 84-85 billet aluminum egr block off plate. Call Tom at champion. And also...get the correct chip for your car (84-85 using the 86-87 ECM) otherwise you are just chasing your tail...
 
So I replaced the EGR gasket, it was only $2 so I figured its cheaper then doing the block off at this time.

It fixed the vacuum leak at the egr but seems like the car has another somewhere but its impossible to really pin point it.

After its been running and its warm, if I turn it off them turn it on the int are perfect jumping around 128, then I give gas once and the int just increases slowly by about 6 until 150 and stays there.

Here's a vid of my scanmaster readings it might still be processing on YouTube

 
Hard to see the sm readings in the vid....were there any mal codes other than 23 (IAT sensor)?? Did you reset the ECM after fixing the egr vac leak?
 
I didnt reset the ECM, didnt think I needed to?

I might upload the vid again while on wifi to get better quality.

The other code is for waste gate solenoid.
 
Also tried to use the LT1 maf with the translator. I don't know if the translator I bought is older or something, it doesn't have any switches or adjustments. When everything was hooked up it seemed even more rich.. Not sure but it idled horrible and giving any gas didnt help.
 
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