Complete engine build #2 (stock)

[Boost231]

yup aint that the truth. i rebuilt my motor pulled it apart not but 5 hours of run time later and then moved and went where they wanted.

 

[rking]

Funny how you can stagger all the rings like is shown on that paper but after a few thousand miles some of them line themselves up again.

Really? Thats something I have never noticed!

 

[vacuum 6]

Funny how you can stagger all the rings like is shown on that paper but after a few thousand miles some of them line themselves up again.

Mmmm, then how do you get the correct compression and minimize blow by?

 

[Turbo1dr]

It's unfortunate that rings will spin around in the piston groove while the engine is running. All engines will do this since there is no way to actually make a ring stay in place.

Mmmm, then how do you get the correct compression and minimize blow by?

The first thing that's needed is a perfectly round cylinder bore then set the ring gaps correct for regular rings. To get near zero blowby use Total Seal Gapless rings. Guys that have catch cans or oil blowing out of their breathers have lots of blow by due to non sealing rings, valve stem seals, leaking head gaskets, leaky intake gaskets or faulty PCV systems.

 

[Rodney87GN]

Might as well line up all the gaps so when you run it the rings will stagger themselves.

 

[turbofabricator]

Just re-use the factory rod bolts. I have never heard of a factory rod bolt failure. Rods will bend, long before the bolt fails. Same with main bolts. Unless you are making more than 600 hp., the factory main and rod bolts work just fine. When converting to ARP main studs, you NEED to have the mains line-honed. Fitting main studs properly takes more than just twisting them into the block. Nothing wrong with ARP rod bolts and main studs, but they are not needed in most engines (turbo Buicks, that is.) If you replace the rod bolts with ARP, you will also need to have the rod big ends re-sized. That is, IF you want things right. Many times replacing bolts/studs causes more problems than they help. Measure twice, build once.

 

[87we410877]

I didnt line hone the mains but the crank does spin nice with no problems. The rod bolts i ordered are stock style. I dont like re-using factory bolts because of the stretch.

 

[87we410877]

Got the rods and pistons all it. Make sure you use plenty of oil (or assembly lube) when installing the pistons into the cylinders and the rods onto the crank journals. Also be sure all cylinders are free of debris as well as the crank journals. Its actually quite simple. Position the rings, apply the ring compressor, intall the piston and rod into the cylinder and lightly tap into place with a rubber mallot. I like to have the crank journal of the cylinder im working with at bottom center so i have room to work with. Make sure your rod is ligned up properly and torque. I used stock rod bolts and torqued to 40 ft lbs as required. Here are some pics.

Next is cam, and timing set installation. Enjoy!

 

[Boost231]

getting there.

 

[87we410877]

Got the cam, cam gears, and timing chain on today. Make sure you use assmebly lube or plenty of oil on the cam when installing. I believe there is a tool for this but if you use extreem caution you can do it by hand. Just make sure you dont go knocking the cam around. After the cam is installed, i put the crank gear on, mount the timing chain on the gear and put the cam gear in the chain loop as well. Sliding the crank gear, chain and cam gear assembly back towards the block, matching the cam gear up with the recess in the cam works for me. Next, rotate the crank while holding cam gear being sure it doesnt fall or pull the cam out of the bearings. Two people will make this step easier. Rotate untill the dots are perfectly aligned. There is also a tool for this but a good eye will get you where you need to be. Just make sure your not 1 tooth of in either direction. I marked the dots with red marker so you can see it easily. Once the dots are ligned up, carefully rotate the cam untill your bolt holes line up. Install your two bolts and torque to factory spec (31 ft lbs). I also installed a new tensioner which is self explainitory. Next is the front case install. Enjoy. Please chime it with other ideas or methods to accomplishing this step.

 

[87we410877]

Got the heads back from the machine shop today. I glass beaded them, then had a 3 angle cut done on all the seats and had all the valves cut. Came out awesome. Im going to try to get back on this but with school and everything it may be drawn out. Thanks!!! enjoy.

 

[TURBOELKY]

I didnt line hone the mains but the crank does spin nice with no problems. The rod bolts i ordered are stock style. I dont like re-using factory bolts because of the stretch.

dude, Turbofabricator is 100 % right. If you did not line hone for those main studs, you might run into serious problems.

 

[wickedtt]

the studs were just a bad idea on a fully stock build not needed!

 

[87we410877]

dude, Turbofabricator is 100 % right. If you did not line hone for those main studs, you might run into serious problems.

Hmmmmm. The crank spins nice and free as it did when i took the motor apart. I tried getting bolts but they were NLA? IF i can find em i'll switch em out. Any ideas?

 

[87we410877]

Got some more work done today. I assembled the heads using new valve springs and new valve guide seals from Cottons. Head gasket used was a graphite style Felpro. I like to lightly coat the gaskets with High Tak gasket spray just to fill any tiny voids. I used ARP head bolts and torqued to 75 ft/lbs with ARP moly working my way up from 20,40,60 then 75. Make sure you seal all the holes in the block with a good sealant so that the bolts wont leak coolant. If you look, you can see that all the head bolt bores run right into the coolant passages and must be sealed. There are a number of different sealers that work good, some teflon, some regular silicon. I used The Right Stuff gasket silicon. You can search and find this topic discussed.

I then installed my front cover. Make sure you do not forget the cam button!!!! Get all your bolts in and working in a star pattern, torque to 22 ft/lbs.

 

[87we410877]

1 more

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Wow that looks real good Dude.

 

[Boost231]

almost there

 

[87we410877]

Pics of the intake blasted and cleared. Looks alot better in person. Camera sucks!! enjoy

 

[onemoretime]

I am using FEL-PRO 9441'S Do they need any coating before install? I installed head studs on the same set up as yours, what should final torque be when using lubriplate assembly lube on both sides of the washers and under the nuts. I purchased a new front cover with new pump from Johns performace in Wa. It came with no oil plate on the end of the pump, suggestions as to best plate to use when closing it up? Where to get the oil pump pickup seal (to the block), no one seems to have them? Also which valley seal is best to use Thanks in advance!