Easily obtainable long wheel studs

Red Regal T

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
I bought some used ET streets already mounted on 10" rims with a 5" backspace. As you know, anything bigger than a 4 1/2" backspace will rub on the frame. I found that at my local Discount auto parts store (chain) , I could purchase a lug stud that is more than 1/2" longer than stock. That is, same threads, and are correct for our cars. In fact, I asked for what was available for an 87 Regal. This allows for the use of up to a 1/2" spacer with no problems. I'm sure these studs are available at Pep Boys or Auto Zone. If you're riding around with spacers and about 3 threads being used on your stock lugs, get these for a buck a piece and have some peace of mind.;)
 
So how would you be changing the studs out? I've been thinking of a way to make a "remover", kinda like a harmonic balancer install tool. It would need a "V" shaped hook to grab the axle and then a big bolt to push the stud out. I think folks are correct about avoiding hammering them out (bearing damage).
 
Attention!

There are only two places that you can get studs for the 8.5" rear:

GM for the stock length

&

Moroso for the longer ones.

The ones you are getting a generics for the 7.5" & 7.625" rears.

The 8.5" has a larger knurl (that grippy part that goes into the axle hub) than the 7.x" series.

HTH,
 
Long wheel studs for front wheels?

Anybody got the number or source for longer wheel studs for the front rotors(on a GN)?
I was told there is a GM part that will work,but???
Thanks
Austin
 
knurl size

Originally posted by Mr. T
There are only two places that you can get studs for the 8.5" rear:

GM for the stock length

&

Moroso for the longer ones.

The ones you are getting a generics for the 7.5" & 7.625" rears.

The 8.5" has a larger knurl (that grippy part that goes into the axle hub) than the 7.x" series.

HTH,
What is the knurl size of the 8.5"rear???
 
arp studs

"ARP Part#100-7708
Desc- "Camero, firebird, Corvette, Late GM 12mm, 1.5 Thd 0.509 Knurled Dia. Wheel Stud Kit"- Happened to have the package still laying in the garage. TWO inches of thread.5 in a pack for about $12. If you have a Checker close , check out thier price, it will save you the shipping.
"

From a previous post.
 
Just go back to the original post. Those studs work on 8.5 rears and of course they work on the front rotors. They are 2" long and cost about $1.00 each. As far as not pounding out the studs with a hammer, I'm not that anal.:D Also, unless you need studs longer than 2", skip the Moroso's. They're not metric.
 
Yup. Dont know if they are the same or not but Ive been using "parts house" units that were longer than stock for several years now. I dont run 10's tho... lol

Shawn
 
I'm sure even if you ran 8s, it wouldn't be a problem. I just became aware of these longer studs. I don't know what all this B.S. about part numbers and knurl size is about. I put out some good info, especially if you have to use wheel spacers, and the "experts" cloud the issue with a "better idea"....... Bad information.
 
Well its all about disclaimers, or the lack of them... unfortunatly for someone I really should have said something like...

"In my experience" or "They had them at the one store I went to on a Friday"

In that line of thinking, one could guess that there are some WRONG and RIGHT parts to be had. Check your fit, not responsible for loss or damages etc...

:D

Shawn
 
Seems to me if one can't tell if a stud fits when it's pulled in, that person should forget about doing his own work.
 
I am by no means an expert but...

I am concerned about the exact knurl size and quality of the stud. I have in depth mechanical knowledge and common sense... which is why I am concerned-you sould be too.

I had a K-5 blazer and the studs kept coming loose on one wheel (33" tires and 400 hp). The first time was on a freeway! By the time I pulled over only two lugs were barely hangin on.

I realize that most parts are mass produced by maybe two or three main manufacturers but get divided up into hundreds of brand names. These range from the 8 year olds working 12 hour shifts to parts made right here in the US under strict tolerances.

Do you think it would be possible to get a part that was made at the end of that kid's shift... or before the dies have been maintained... or that batch of metal was the mix of the left overs from a few others... or it made it through the already-not-too-good quality control... or one of the other hundreds of reasons that a "cheap" part could be inferior.

I know that just because something costs more doesn't mean that it is better, but I am not willing to risk something as important as the items that hold my wheels on when I go 120+ or even on the freeway for that matter... over a few bucks.

On my blazer I tried a new set of studs (the cheap ones)they busted...and ruined my drum in the process. new drum and new studs (cheap again) and it took a little longer but did it again. now I get a new drum and new studs-straight from the GM dealer... not a problem since.

Maybe I had some mud on that tire-threw it out of balance and vibrated too much, maybe I stressed it differently causing the cheap studs to break... but for a total of about 35 dollars difference, I virtually eliminate the possibility of having an inferior part.

Think about electrical parts... everyone has the experience with good and bad cheap parts.

Some have the same with factory or brand name parts- but not as many.

Now I would bet that 99 percent of the people could bolt on the cheaper studs and never have a problem.

You seek "peace of mind" in changing them in the first place why not go with a quality unit?

Now I have meant absolutely NO disrespect by this post. And I don't think the "experts" were meaning to degrade or cloud your information. I would bet they were trying to make sure all the options are out there.

I hope I haven't offended you or anyone else with my opinion, and I am sorry that it took so long to express it.

Vic
 
John! You are a real stirrer! :D

There is enuf diameter size in the two knurls that it would be obvious that you had the wrong one when you install the new ones and they slipped in without a protest.

I think John can tell the difference.
 
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