F Body Sway Bar Ripping Bolts Out!!!

[V6UnderPressure]

Wanted to chime in here with a question and a tip. I make sure to put grease around the bar and inside of the bushing where the sway bar goes, this way, no matter how tight, it will still be able to move. Now my question is: Is the F-Body sway bar actually a "direct" fit? When I put my f-body bar on, it seemed a tad short on each side which ended up in pulling the end links forward a bit. I personally from looking at it, do not think the sway bar is the same size as stock (I don't mean diameter). Because of this, I ended up just getting the hollow Hotchkis one meant for the G-Body. It doesn't seem to put strain on the end links. Am I just visually impaired?

 

[GNVYUS 1]

After spending more time underneath and retapping every hole and shimming it with a 1/16th piece of aluminum I'd say Scott you are correct. The end links aren't totally straight like the stock bar and Turbofish mentioned how the geometry of the bars is slightly different which is why myself and others have had the bolt ripping out issues. The shims will only help the load/bracket aspect but it won't change the fact that the bar is different.

30lbs, sorry, driving and boosting is all that's been on my mind since I did this stupid swap.

Scott, do you have the stock bar and the F body laying around? If so, wanna take some measurements and see what might be the deal here.

 

[jdpolzin]

The angle of the end links wont hurt the geometry at all. You just cant tighten the end links all the way. This isnt the reason the bolts ripped out of the frame. It's because you had the endlinks and the bar to tight. If you use the stock bar brackets and the stock F-body bushings, everything fits perfectly. If you dont want the bar, bring it to Volo and I'll buy it off of you.

 

[WhiteTtype989]

ok got the endlinks snugged now , i have the 36mm bushings and stock gbody bracket am i gonna have to shim it or will the bracket sit flush after driving and retightening it ??

 

[jdpolzin]

As long as you are using 36mm bushings, the Gbody brackets will sit flush!

 

[V6UnderPressure]

The angle of the end links wont hurt the geometry at all. You just cant tighten the end links all the way. This isnt the reason the bolts ripped out of the frame. It's because you had the endlinks and the bar to tight. If you use the stock bar brackets and the stock F-body bushings, everything fits perfectly. If you dont want the bar, bring it to Volo and I'll buy it off of you.

The angle of the endlinks may not hurt the geometry, but it may hurt the endlinks. If you just can't tighten the end links all the way, then I don't call this direct fit. The bar should be tightened straight so that the pressure is the same all around the end link bushings. With the F-Body, it wasn't straight and therefore was crushing the bushing more towards the front. In my opinion, it loses a bit of function when this is happening, geometry or not. All in all, if you can't tighten the links all the way, then its not a correct fit. I have never had issues with the bracket to the frame, I always had issues with the end links. Hence why I said screw the junkyard swap and bought one specifically for my car.

GNVYUS,

Both of my bars are gone so I cannot put them together for you for a picture. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

I thought someone on here said the F body brackets were the same?
I thought that sounded odd but that would've been the ticket and saved me a ton of headaches.

I hear ya on them not being flush but the things won't go any flatter and the washers are literally puking around the collar.

And does 30psi sound like the end link torque spec? I read it somewhere online and it seemed kind of low.

Just an FYI, I read a while ago that you use your stock brackets with the F-Body bushing. That is what I did way back.

 

[jdpolzin]

The angle of the endlinks may not hurt the geometry, but it may hurt the endlinks. If you just can't tighten the end links all the way, then I don't call this direct fit. The bar should be tightened straight so that the pressure is the same all around the end link bushings. With the F-Body, it wasn't straight and therefore was crushing the bushing more towards the front. In my opinion, it loses a bit of function when this is happening, geometry or not. All in all, if you can't tighten the links all the way, then its not a correct fit. I have never had issues with the bracket to the frame, I always had issues with the end links. Hence why I said screw the junkyard swap and bought one specifically for my car.

GNVYUS,

Both of my bars are gone so I cannot put them together for you for a picture. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Endlinks should never be tightened all the way down unless you dont mind a very rough ride. The point of them having so much thread is to be able to make stiffness adjustments.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

As long as you are using 36mm bushings, the Gbody brackets will sit flush!

Ditto

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Endlinks should never be tightened all the way down unless you dont mind a very rough ride. The point of them having so much thread is to be able to make stiffness adjustments.

I don't disagree with that at all. But they should NOT be on an angle from the control arm when tightened.

 

[jdpolzin]

Are you guys working on this together? Im wondering if you guys have the wrong bar? My endlinks sit darn near straight up and down. They are at a very very slight angle but not much at all. I'm loading up a couple pics I just took of my set up. Hope this helps. Dont mind the cobwebs!\


P.S. The only reason I say this is because I have seen people selling newer camaro bars as 1LE.

 

[jdpolzin]

Another thing I forgot to mention is that as the suspension loads, if your tops of your endlinks lean slightly towards the frame, the endlinks will straighten out. Wish I was there to help you guys out! And, make sure your bar is centered.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Are your spindles stock height? Which ones are those? I have had the correct 34mm and 36mm sway bars on my GN. They were all junkyard true 1LE finds. They are a tad short on the ends. Just buy the hotchkis one Mike. It will save you hassles and headaches and comes with all new brackets, poly bushings, poly end links, hardware etc. Everything you need. It's hollow, diameter is HUGE, and man is it PRETTY and you won't have any mounting issues!:biggrin:

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Are you guys working on this together? Im wondering if you guys have the wrong bar? My endlinks sit darn near straight up and down. They are at a very very slight angle but not much at all. I'm loading up a couple pics I just took of my set up. Hope this helps. Dont mind the cobwebs!\


P.S. The only reason I say this is because I have seen people selling newer camaro bars as 1LE.

I think you need to tighten that end link a little looks like the bottom bushing is popping out .:biggrin:

 

[V6UnderPressure]

The big problem and the reason the bolts rip out when you use the Camaro sway bars is that they are bent in the wrong places compared to the G-Body bars. Even when you have it centered as close as you can the bends place a load on the clamp and bushing. The bar can't pivot and it binds in that area which is why the bolts pull out.

I do remember having this issue a while back and you can see how close the bends are almost before it exits the bushing.

 

[GoldHawg]

Any reason to try and use the F-body bracket with the F-body bushings? I saw they are NLA, but I have the ones that came w/my sway bar used off the WS6. Do they not fit? I apologize for not knowing, but my GN is in another state and I'm gathering the parts now. Was able to pick up a 36MM bar off an 89 GTA for $25--but I don't want to put it on if this isn't a good idea. Right now, it seems that the 36 MM bushings w/G-body brackets should work fine..but are the F-body brackets better or worse?

Thx

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Any reason to try and use the F-body bracket with the F-body bushings? I saw they are NLA, but I have the ones that came w/my sway bar used off the WS6. Do they not fit? I apologize for not knowing, but my GN is in another state and I'm gathering the parts now. Was able to pick up a 36MM bar off an 89 GTA for $25--but I don't want to put it on if this isn't a good idea. Right now, it seems that the 36 MM bushings w/G-body brackets should work fine..but are the F-body brackets better or worse?

Thx

Use the 36mm bushings with the stock g-body brackets. You should be alright.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Don't do it at all, that's better and saves you time and $25.
For 7lbs and a bar that's .16 thicker I don't see the point, if your car can't handle it's probably your stock suspension, not the bar. Too bad I found this out over the past week and a half.

Moved on to the welding stage BTW.

 

[jdpolzin]

I think you need to tighten that end link a little looks like the bottom bushing is popping out .:biggrin:

Of course! I know this, this car has not been driven yet. The reason they are not tight is so I can adjust accordingly as I drive the car more and more. I dont want to start the car out pre-loaded. If you look at the top of the threaded end of the end link bolt, you will see there is about 1/2-3/4" of threads showing. The other end is a bolt head, there is no way the end link could "pop out". Theis is the proper procedure to setting your front end. You work it tighter little by little until it is set where you want it. For more info on my spinldes, check out this thread:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...ls/244936-moog-5658-front-spring-results.html

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Of course! I know this, this car has not been driven yet. The reason they are not tight is so I can adjust accordingly as I drive the car more and more. I dont want to start the car out pre-loaded. If you look at the top of the threaded end of the end link bolt, you will see there is about 1/2-3/4" of threads showing. The other end is a bolt head, there is no way the end link could "pop out". Theis is the proper procedure to setting your front end. You work it tighter little by little until it is set where you want it.

Hmmmm...understandable procedure but I don't see how you shouldnt have at least a little of the bushing set in. I know the end link couldnt pop out, but if the bushing isn't in, then it would move all over the place. Could you explain this proper procedure so all of us could understand?