H
Heisenberg
Guest
No
If it is that tweaked to begin with - you can always do it with the body off
But those rear frame horns hardly move
Frame/body bolts
- Thread starter movinfast
- Start date
No
If it is that tweaked to begin with - you can always do it with the body off
But those rear frame horns hardly move
H
Heisenberg
Guest
Generally - the ones you will have the most trouble with are the three in the rear.
I made a template where the three cage nuts are located.
2 on passenger's side - one on the driver's side.
Without the template - it's pretty hard to gauge their location - because there is no real datum reference points inside the trunk to easily work from
Without the template - you can drill 2 really small holes in the bottom of truck to use as datum points to measure from - measure underneath - then transfer those locations to the interior to give you a ballpark location of the cage nuts.
The - You could - if you were so inclined - drill a small 1/4" hole and insert a PBblaster straw in there and soak from the top.
The others towards the front are also accessible from inside the car and you can do the same.
Those are pretty easy to measure and mark location, then drill a small hole from the top side of the body.
Afterwards, plug with a small body plug and sealant.
Whatever you do - try not to spin the cage nuts.
In other words - it it doesn't break loose with normal levels of torque - don't over do it.
They will spin.
Once you do - the fix to the body requires some specialized replacement parts, sheet metal cutting, and some welding. (If this happens - I can post you info on the parts and the links)
So if you have any doubt - soaking with PB blaster from the top is a very good choice.
The bottom as well just to help things.
Since you say you are doing a frame off - it is not hard to take out the seats and carpet - or they will be out anyway - giving you a straight shot access to the interior of the body.
Now if you are successful in getting them all out - then run a tap through the body cage nuts with a good penetrating oil.
Check the cage nuts to make sure they are still firmly welded into place.
If loose - repair with welder.
Likewise on the frame side - there are repair kits available for the frame holes.
Weld in washers basically
When putting the new body bolts back in - anti seize is the order of the day.
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H
Heisenberg
Guest
H
Heisenberg
Guest
No - you could also use a partial saw.
You don't have to use the whole saw.
And in all seriousness - you either only have to drill a small hole for lubrication, or if - then break out the cutting wheels and such.
A whole saw - or a hole saw - will probably not allow you enough access to effect repairs.
For the interior locations, I cut a 3 sided flap with a thin cut off wheel - peel it back - (like a box top) - do the repair - then fold it back - stitch weld, and seam seal.
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That's funny
No one ever criticizes my posts.
Riiiggghhht
Screw the nay-Sayers. At least you take the time to offer good advice, and good info
chris kirk
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2013
Great post and pictures.... Very informative. Nice work Heisenberg! You don't see many posts about body bushings on here. My guess would be because they're to difficult to do so most people over look them not realizing the importance of them. I mean, they only hold the body to the frame. How important is that.... Most people put all the suspension stuff on their cars and look past the body bushings and then wonder why their car still handles like shit. I did all mine when I did a full frame restoration. Also put a new steering gear box, power steering reservoir and steering shaft when I did mine.
HighMileage
Albany,NY
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2010
I found the body cushions (bushings) whole job to be fairly simple,but time consuming. Imho,the job can be made difficult by whoever is working on it. Rounding off the heads of the body bolts,for example. Worse yet,having the body fall while raising/lowering it down. Damage might not be done if it's dropped only a small amount,but now you have a body on a frame,and things aren't lined up. Moving the body around on the frame to line things up is easier said than done.
No one should fear this job if they have a firm,level place to work,a few jacks,plenty of stands and good mechanical ability. Most of the jacks I used were GM scissors jacks. It's easy to lower in fine increments with them.
The poster of this thread wants to remove the frame from the car so that work can be done. I'd approach that by supporting the body,then rolling the frame out from under it.
No one should fear this job if they have a firm,level place to work,a few jacks,plenty of stands and good mechanical ability. Most of the jacks I used were GM scissors jacks. It's easy to lower in fine increments with them.
The poster of this thread wants to remove the frame from the car so that work can be done. I'd approach that by supporting the body,then rolling the frame out from under it.
Not just doing body bushings doing a frame off. Boxing it in too, Aldo reinforcing the rear frame
HighMileage
Albany,NY
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2010
I believe all of the Grand Pix got them also.
The holes are there for you to put them in. They are the only bushings with no bolt or washer.
As you can see in the pic,the small part of the bushing just drops in the hole.
In the pic,I had the body jacked up about 3 inches.
The holes are there for you to put them in. They are the only bushings with no bolt or washer.
As you can see in the pic,the small part of the bushing just drops in the hole.
In the pic,I had the body jacked up about 3 inches.
HighMileage
Albany,NY
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2010
This view shows the "GNX" bushing from under the car with the RR spring removed. (I was putting new springs in)
Since you are taking the body off the frame,just drop these bushing in the frame hole before you set the body back on.
Since you are taking the body off the frame,just drop these bushing in the frame hole before you set the body back on.
