G-body 25.3 SFI rebuild
- Thread starter 10secBu
- Start date
Well today I dropped the car off at the body shop. Can't wait to see the body back in color again, but the color decision still needs to be made. lol
Also, a new front bumper is on the way, should be here the first of the week. Once it arrives, I'll need to take it to the body shop so we can do the mockup and fitting.
Here's the same bumper mocked up on Eric Kenwards Malibu wagon.
Also, a new front bumper is on the way, should be here the first of the week. Once it arrives, I'll need to take it to the body shop so we can do the mockup and fitting.
Here's the same bumper mocked up on Eric Kenwards Malibu wagon.
Lookin' good. :biggrin:
You've got me really debating whether I should try to powder coat my cage and undercarriage or just go with paint. The only plus I can see with paint is the ability to fix scratches and stuff relatively easily when needed.
FWIW - my wife's Tahoe is that Blue Granite Metallic. It's definitely not a color you see every day.
You've got me really debating whether I should try to powder coat my cage and undercarriage or just go with paint. The only plus I can see with paint is the ability to fix scratches and stuff relatively easily when needed.
FWIW - my wife's Tahoe is that Blue Granite Metallic. It's definitely not a color you see every day.
Thanks for the lead... found a few threads on YB.com.
That's like saying I'd give up on black cars...
That's like saying I'd give up on black cars...
Michael McCoy
Active Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
What more can you say...beautiful!!
No, I don't use a water cooler with the 175 Lincoln. I just don't feel it's needed for cage tube welding.
I don't find the torch getting all that hot welding chromoly or mild steel. Aluminum might be a different story.
With tube joints, you rarely are welding a long continuous bead, so heat buildup in the torch is minimal.
I don't wear the thin tig gloves though as they offer nothing in protection IMO. Either I use a simple cowhide glove from Home Depot, or for heavier stuff I'll use a thick arc welding glove. Actually I use the thick glove alot as I tend to hold the torch very close to the head/gas lens which offers more control than holding back on the handle. It also gives me alot more options in ways to hold the torch (i.e. upside down with the handle pointing up, etc).
Not much to update here recently with the car in the body shop. The cars making good progress, the roof was a problem that had to be worked through to tighten the sheetmetal so the body work/sanding could be done properly.
The car will have primer on by the end of the week, block sanding to start next week. Should be ready for paint sometime next week if all goes well.
Still have not nailed down the color choice, hope to see a silver sample tomorrow to compare to the Ford Steel Blue.
Hoping to have the car back home in a couple weeks so assembly can begin.
The car will have primer on by the end of the week, block sanding to start next week. Should be ready for paint sometime next week if all goes well.
Still have not nailed down the color choice, hope to see a silver sample tomorrow to compare to the Ford Steel Blue.
Hoping to have the car back home in a couple weeks so assembly can begin.
Today I got the silver paint chip to look at. The metallic is smaller than I had envisioned I was looking for, but it's a real nice color. Clean, bright silver, nice sparkle in the sun. This might be the color for the Malibu. Won't need to decide for sure till next week.
Car now has it's first base primer, so it's one color now
Car now has it's first base primer, so it's one color now
Time for a little update.
I picked up these wheels a couple months ago to match the front wheels. Mickey Thompson ET Drag's, 15 x 10, 3 1/2" back space. They have 5/8" more back space than the other wheels I have which are Holeshot's with 2 7/8" back space.
Rather than use a spacer, I found something else that might work, at least gonna try.
This week I picked up a BRAND NEW pair (discontinued for a couple years now) M/T ET Drags in the 15 x 12 with a 4 3/4" back space. I intend to have one pair beadlocked by Mac-Fab and we might be able to alter this rim to achieve my goal of the 15 x 10 with 3" back space. We'll see later this winter when I send these new ones in to see if they'll work or not. Either way, one of the pairs will get sold off.
Lastly, here's the new gauge/data logger setup that I ordered today.
It's an Autometer MFDL dash logger. The whole thing is your gauge package and has a built in data logger system.
I've looked at such systems for a long time and this is the one that I liked the most and was pretty reasonably priced.
I will be logging engine rpm, driveshaft rpm, battery voltage, 3 internal g-meters, oil pressure, water temp, fuel pressure and crankcase vacuum.
The car previously had mismatched Autometer mechanical gauges along with a basic RPM Performance data logger. They served me well, but with level of the cars rebuild, I wanted to clean things up a bit installation wise in terms of wiring neatness.
I picked up these wheels a couple months ago to match the front wheels. Mickey Thompson ET Drag's, 15 x 10, 3 1/2" back space. They have 5/8" more back space than the other wheels I have which are Holeshot's with 2 7/8" back space.
Rather than use a spacer, I found something else that might work, at least gonna try.
This week I picked up a BRAND NEW pair (discontinued for a couple years now) M/T ET Drags in the 15 x 12 with a 4 3/4" back space. I intend to have one pair beadlocked by Mac-Fab and we might be able to alter this rim to achieve my goal of the 15 x 10 with 3" back space. We'll see later this winter when I send these new ones in to see if they'll work or not. Either way, one of the pairs will get sold off.
Lastly, here's the new gauge/data logger setup that I ordered today.
It's an Autometer MFDL dash logger. The whole thing is your gauge package and has a built in data logger system.
I've looked at such systems for a long time and this is the one that I liked the most and was pretty reasonably priced.
I will be logging engine rpm, driveshaft rpm, battery voltage, 3 internal g-meters, oil pressure, water temp, fuel pressure and crankcase vacuum.
The car previously had mismatched Autometer mechanical gauges along with a basic RPM Performance data logger. They served me well, but with level of the cars rebuild, I wanted to clean things up a bit installation wise in terms of wiring neatness.
It's gonna be quite a while as I'm storing the wheels till I'm ready to send them to Mac Fab to see if we can beadlock them down to 15 x 10's with 3" b.s. Won't mess with that till likely after the first of the year. If we can't cut the wheels how I need, the pair will get sold off.
The car received it's final coat of high build primer. The car will sit till next Monday to give the primer time to cure/shrink at which time the final block sanding will begin.
I then need to deliver the hood to the shop and help mockup the bumpers. The new Eric Kenward front bumper as well as cutting/narrowing the rear Glasstek bumper. Once that's done it's some seam sealing, and ready for paint.
I would love to have the car back by the end of September, but we'll have to see how things go next week.
I then need to deliver the hood to the shop and help mockup the bumpers. The new Eric Kenward front bumper as well as cutting/narrowing the rear Glasstek bumper. Once that's done it's some seam sealing, and ready for paint.
I would love to have the car back by the end of September, but we'll have to see how things go next week.
Well the new "toy" came Friday, the Auto Meter MFDL data logger dash. I'm quite impressed with the quality of the parts, cables, sensors, even the software is really nice.
I started some preliminary programming/setup to familiarize myself with how the dash logger functions.
The wiring harness/connections are super simple and should make the wiring behind the dash much cleaner looking than before.
The four bags with the yellow top tags are the optional sensors which include:
Oil pressure
fuel pressure
water temp
crankcase vacuum.
Total monitored channels will be:
battery voltage
engine rpm
driveshaft rpm
oil pressure
water temp
fuel pressure
crankcase vacuum
long. g-force
lat. g-force
vert. g-force
I started some preliminary programming/setup to familiarize myself with how the dash logger functions.
The wiring harness/connections are super simple and should make the wiring behind the dash much cleaner looking than before.
The four bags with the yellow top tags are the optional sensors which include:
Oil pressure
fuel pressure
water temp
crankcase vacuum.
Total monitored channels will be:
battery voltage
engine rpm
driveshaft rpm
oil pressure
water temp
fuel pressure
crankcase vacuum
long. g-force
lat. g-force
vert. g-force
Stopped by the body shop this morning to drop off the hood and few other small odds-n-ends. They have the body looking great, real straight, panel alignment and gaps look real nice as well.
Some work on fitting the bumpers and a few small details to take care of.
Should hopefully see paint sometime next week.
Some work on fitting the bumpers and a few small details to take care of.
Should hopefully see paint sometime next week.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Looks nice and straight. Can't wait to see it with color. This car is really top shelf brother!
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