Hellwig sway bar users...
- Thread starter darb
- Start date
DoubleD
Too many Regals
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
Bolt on in terms of no welding required. you need to drill 2 holes in the rear subframe area, 1/2" if i remember correctly, to mount the endlink upper mount.
I used a unibit to get the hole just right... they are actually nice for drilling through thick stuff instead of trying to go all in one bit size...
Other than those 2 holes, it'll bolt in. You also may (likely) have to shorten the threaded end of the endlink about 2" or so to make the bar fit better.
-DD
I used a unibit to get the hole just right... they are actually nice for drilling through thick stuff instead of trying to go all in one bit size...
Other than those 2 holes, it'll bolt in. You also may (likely) have to shorten the threaded end of the endlink about 2" or so to make the bar fit better.
-DD
Got my bar installed and the car feels alot different. Have the endlinks in the middle hole. Rear seems to me to a little more unstable then before with the stock bar. However, the stock bar connected to the LCA's where as the Hellwig connects to the frame. Not really sure how it is suppose to feel compared to the stock setup. Anyone share any experience with a difference in how the car felt after installed the Hellwig or H&R or similiar setups? Thanks
DoubleD
Too many Regals
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
I still have mine set on the outer most hole. It definitely changes the feel of the car, but for the better IMO. The car will now tend to oversteer more, and that is also accentuated by having the swaybar tighter (middle hole vs front)
Try running it in the front hole on the street and see if it feels better. Middle for aggressive street, and back hole for the track.
in the instructions they tell you to start on the front hole to get used to it
Try running it in the front hole on the street and see if it feels better. Middle for aggressive street, and back hole for the track.
in the instructions they tell you to start on the front hole to get used to it
Hey Brad,
I think going from 17" performance rims and radial tires to 15" weld rims with M/T ET street slick is what your not use to. Your ET street sidewalls have alot more 'flex' compared to the Z rated 17" radials you had. At the track a different story will be told.
If it feels unsturdy I would put more air pressure in the rear tires. Be careful on the ET streets as they are not meant to take turns like your 17". When you get you new rims and MT drag radials they will have a stiffer side wall which will make a hell of a difference around turns. Good thing also is you can kiss the horrible 2.2 60' and welcome the 1.60-1.80's 60' and 7 second ET's in the 1/8.
Mike Banas
87GN
I think going from 17" performance rims and radial tires to 15" weld rims with M/T ET street slick is what your not use to. Your ET street sidewalls have alot more 'flex' compared to the Z rated 17" radials you had. At the track a different story will be told.
If it feels unsturdy I would put more air pressure in the rear tires. Be careful on the ET streets as they are not meant to take turns like your 17". When you get you new rims and MT drag radials they will have a stiffer side wall which will make a hell of a difference around turns. Good thing also is you can kiss the horrible 2.2 60' and welcome the 1.60-1.80's 60' and 7 second ET's in the 1/8.
Mike Banas
87GN
