How many miles before I could race my new engine?

[evil666]

How many miles should I wait before racing my new engine? The cam has already 450 miles on it from my last engine that went wrong.
Marco
(Montreal, Quebec)

This is my new set-up: T-Top 86 Grand Nationals 109 block with weisco forged pistons and 2 billet center main caps, M&A aluminum heads, roller rockers, port match lower intake ,te63 a.r .82, erson 214/214 cam, razor alky injection, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, kenne bell headers, 60 lbs injectors, extender alky chip with 23/21 timing, with a gen 2 with a LS1 maf,thdp, mease 24 row IC, PTC 3200 stall 9 1/2 convertor, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/60/15) , rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms, Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filt

T-Top 86 Grand National 62000 km)
stock long block, stock suspension, 12 inch red stripe convertor (2800stall), te44, smc alk injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost,( boost spike 28 psi in 1st gear), 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, 42 ½ lbs 009 injectors, turbotweak alky chip with 23/21 timing, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3720lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor locked only after car shifted in third), rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, comp cam 980 valve springs. Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust cut-out.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.53
1/8= 7.25
1/4= 11.48
MPH=120.82
BEST 60FT=1.52

I have a gen 2 with an extender chip and LS1 maf, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms. MT 275/60/15 drag radials. Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filter. The times above were done with out these parts

 

[TurboJim]

If the cam is broken in, then as many miles as it takes to drive to the track

 

[Otto J]

As long as it is tuned and dialed in go racing. If the motor goes bad at this point there was a build/machine problem from day one

 

[TurboBuRick]

As long as it is tuned and dialed in go racing. If the motor goes bad at this point there was a build/machine problem from day one

X2 :biggrin:

 

[87NAT]

Break it in like you drive it.

 

[turbofabricator]

As stated above:

Start engine, and immediately bring RPM up to 1800-2000 for 20 minutes while checking for leaks/problems. Shut engine off, drain oil, change filter, then cut old filter apart to visually check for copius amounts of debris. (there WILL be some debris), restart engine, let warm up while varying RPM from idle to 2,000 RPM, then put car in gear, with foot on the brake, bring the boost up slowly to about 4-5 psi, then SLAM the throttle HARD until the tires break loose. BINGO......rings are now seated and you can take it to the track. If anyone tells you differently, they are afraid of their own machine work, or assembly practices.

Drive it like you stole it. It takes boost to seat the rings. Nothing else should ever make contact in a running engine. Everything else should have a thou or so of oil film protecting things.

 

[NM Tom]

Just finished my 4.1 about a month ago. I ran it up to 15 pounds in the first 25 miles and at 50 miles brought it all the way up to 25 pounds. Have 500 miles on it now and it runs great. Get running right by the numbers and get on it!

 

[Turbo RX-6]

All that good stuff and you didn't go with a roller cam???