IAC Removal

iwantatta

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
What size wrench is needed to remove iac. Have a 24mm and it still isnt big enough.

Having iac stuck at zero problems high idle. Seems like easiest thing to check cause ive spent hours following vacuum lines and spraying things and i see nothing
 
I believe that is an 1 1/4'' wrench thats needed. But i use an 10 inch adjustable wrench since there is very little turning to tighten or loosen it.
 
Your not going to be able to tell anything by looking at it when it's removed. What is the tps and iac value on scanmaster?
 
See if the throttle bracket is touching the minimum air screw.if not, I've had the cruise control cable hold the Throttle blades open. Try removing the cable.
I've suggested that a couple times on here and it was the same problem.
 
Used a 10" adjustable wrench like whitehot1 suggested. No problems getting it off. Just wanted to see what the IAC was all about and make sure nothing looked obviously wrong before going off on some more difficult options. Idle adjustment screw does nothing to change the IAC.

Scanmaster at warmed up temp reads IAC=0 and TPS = .42v RPM = 1250. When cold it starts off IAC=175 and as the car warms up it quickly approaches 0. I've followed all the lines off the vacuum block and done the propane method to no avail.

I followed the service manual which i have which mention as a diagnostic aid:
If idle is too high, stop engine. Ignition "ON". Ground diagnostic terminal. Wait 30 seconds for IAC to seat, then disconnect IAC. Unground diagnostic terminal and start engine. If idle speed is above 800 +/- 50 rpm, locate and correct vacuum leak. So right now i'm currently building a little smoke tester.
 
Ignore that service manual stuff since you can actual read your IAC counts.


Since you're reading ''0'', that means the ECM has commanded the IAC to close as far as it's mechanically able. That mean one, or both, of two things. Either your throttle blade is open too far and passing so much air it took the IAC port out of the loop. Or, you've got some crud between the IAC pintle that's leaking unwanted air into the engine.
 
Try disconnecting cruise control cable. It may be holding throttle blade open too far
 
Tried disconnecting the cruise cable and it didn't work. Got my little home made smoker kind of working. Although i'm guessing i need to block the air inlet on the turbo and put the oil cap on? I noticed smoke coming out of the air filter and air breather on my oil cap. I didn't see anything else. Hooked up the smoker to one of the vacuum lines.

Guess i can remove the IAC again and try to clean out the hole. Do i use a special cleaner to clean the hole? When i removed it the first time there didnt seem to be much room to do anything.
 
Was thinking about pulling the one out of my buick but its running good. Would hate to screw that one up too. But may eventually get to that point
 
Still no luck. Tried cleaning out the IAC with the q-tip. Used a flashlight to look inside and make sure everything was clean. Q-tips were black but once it was done i could see clearly inside the hole.

This one has really got me stumped. Should replacing the IAC do anything?
 
I tried cleaning out the IAC hole with a q-tip. Picked up some dirt and used a flashlight to check. Everything looked clean before putting it back in. Car still has problem with the high idle. Starts off at 175 then drop gradually to 0 as the car heats up. Could the IAC be bad? Running out of things to try before taking it to someone.

RPM's after warming up are around 1300 and the idle adjustment screw does nothing to bring it down.
 
IAC zero and high rpm above commanded idle ... you're getting air somewhere
iac zero ...the throttle blade needs to be closed more than it is
have you verified the throttle blade closes fully , i have had a few ported throttle bodies with bent throttle blades
 
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