Im going in....(Timing Chain)
- Thread starter QWK
- Start date
Well its been a few days.
You all know I drove it and it almost made it to work. After getting towed around the block and hours of Trouble shootin. It was the Module cable, it was loose and no making a good contact.
SO we tightened it up and I drove it home (Thanks again Tom & Kevin)
There it sat because the radiator had a bad neck and was seeping antifreeze. Also, I was a bit gun-shy about driving it again, I dont like being broke down on the side of the road.
After a few days of driving and filling up my Duramax ($78!!) I decided to get a new radiator coming. While Im waiting on it, I went ahead a yanked the old one. I looked around and couldnt find any directions, so I jumped in.
Like the CHIP install, removing the Radiator is pretty straight forward.
You need a 10mm socket & ratchet, 12,13,15, and 20mm wrenches, a roll of duct tape, and a couple plastic baggies. Dont forget the Penatrant spray (WD40, PB Blaster, etc etc)
Start by removing the 5 10mm bolts
Then remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the fan. Also remove the stud once the fan is clear.
With the fan away, you can remove the Rad. hold down. There are two holes at the end with rubber bushings underneth, just give it a pull and it will come off.
Spray the heck out of the cooler line fittings!!!
Let soak. Repeat....and repeat again!!
Remove the Oil cooler lines and wrap in a palstic bag and wrap the end with duct tape.
Notice the tranny cooler lines are in a tight area, spray them with Penetrant fluid and spray the front ones also.
After spray penetrates, break free the front fittings(easier to get to)
Once they are free, pull the radiator up and out.
Notice the cool "Dirt Dobber" nest and the remains of a Dragonfly. No telling how long they were there.
Once you have the radiator out, you can break free the tranny cooler lines from the radiator.
Ill have more when I get the new radiator.
This one will probably get re-cored and put on the shelf.
Craig
You all know I drove it and it almost made it to work. After getting towed around the block and hours of Trouble shootin. It was the Module cable, it was loose and no making a good contact.
SO we tightened it up and I drove it home (Thanks again Tom & Kevin)
There it sat because the radiator had a bad neck and was seeping antifreeze. Also, I was a bit gun-shy about driving it again, I dont like being broke down on the side of the road.
After a few days of driving and filling up my Duramax ($78!!) I decided to get a new radiator coming. While Im waiting on it, I went ahead a yanked the old one. I looked around and couldnt find any directions, so I jumped in.
Like the CHIP install, removing the Radiator is pretty straight forward.
You need a 10mm socket & ratchet, 12,13,15, and 20mm wrenches, a roll of duct tape, and a couple plastic baggies. Dont forget the Penatrant spray (WD40, PB Blaster, etc etc)
Start by removing the 5 10mm bolts
Then remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the fan. Also remove the stud once the fan is clear.
With the fan away, you can remove the Rad. hold down. There are two holes at the end with rubber bushings underneth, just give it a pull and it will come off.
Spray the heck out of the cooler line fittings!!!
Let soak. Repeat....and repeat again!!
Remove the Oil cooler lines and wrap in a palstic bag and wrap the end with duct tape.
Notice the tranny cooler lines are in a tight area, spray them with Penetrant fluid and spray the front ones also.
After spray penetrates, break free the front fittings(easier to get to)
Once they are free, pull the radiator up and out.
Notice the cool "Dirt Dobber" nest and the remains of a Dragonfly. No telling how long they were there.
Once you have the radiator out, you can break free the tranny cooler lines from the radiator.
Ill have more when I get the new radiator.
This one will probably get re-cored and put on the shelf.
Craig
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Perfect time to paint the core support, radiator support, and the skewed yellow decal and rust are killing me!!!! :biggrin:
Excellent detail, lets just paint her up and make her more pretty since youve got it apart....
Keep it up, love to look under a buick turbo regal without having to go out in the cold this winter
BW
Excellent detail, lets just paint her up and make her more pretty since youve got it apart....
Keep it up, love to look under a buick turbo regal without having to go out in the cold this winter
BW
I eat Z06 said:
Too bad I cant overhaul RUST. :frown:
At least it will be a Quick Rust Bucket.
Im taking the shroud to work tomorow, Ill bead blast it and give it some new paint. If I do anything else, Ill have to tear the doghouse off and do it right.
I better not.
Thanks guys
Craig
Robbie-87plz
Junior Boost-Head
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2004
Craig,
I've got to say that you're definitely an inspiration to me ( as well as others,) thanks for documenting everything that you've done so far, makes me less scared to work on my car, knowing that you TR guys online are ready and willing to help with issues....
I've got to say that you're definitely an inspiration to me ( as well as others,) thanks for documenting everything that you've done so far, makes me less scared to work on my car, knowing that you TR guys online are ready and willing to help with issues....
Robbie-87plz said:Craig,
I've got to say that you're definitely an inspiration to me ( as well as others,) thanks for documenting everything that you've done so far, makes me less scared to work on my car, knowing that you TR guys online are ready and willing to help with issues....
Whoa, Thanks.
It really is not bad at all....Once you get through all the Grime, dirt, and rusty bolts.
Good luck on your project.
Craig
I got the Radiator today. It looked good and I noticed some extra fittings on the engine side of it. They were plugged off, but still noticeable.
I got it home and I saw that I had to use adapters(included) for the trans line connections. Only bad thing about that, it pushed the fittings 1/2" towards the AC Condenser. It wouldnt allow the rad support to be used. So I saw where there was a bracket holding the AC lines together, maybe a heat shield? Well I took it off and that was enough room for the radiator to be put back in its stock location.
All the other lines and hoses went back together no problems.
I filled it up with Antifreeze and then fired her up to check for leaks. I figured Warm it up, if no leaks, take it for a spin.
It ran for about 10 minutes. The first couple times it didnt want to start. It finally kicked over and had a high idle. (1950rpm) Then it started to idle down, and then it back fired and started surging. WTF NOW!?!?
With a loud POP, she died.
Woudnt start, would only turn over....
F--KING CAR!!!
I think Ill put it under a cover and go back to working on old Carbureted Small blocks :frown:
Upset and disapointed
Craig
I got it home and I saw that I had to use adapters(included) for the trans line connections. Only bad thing about that, it pushed the fittings 1/2" towards the AC Condenser. It wouldnt allow the rad support to be used. So I saw where there was a bracket holding the AC lines together, maybe a heat shield? Well I took it off and that was enough room for the radiator to be put back in its stock location.
All the other lines and hoses went back together no problems.
I filled it up with Antifreeze and then fired her up to check for leaks. I figured Warm it up, if no leaks, take it for a spin.
It ran for about 10 minutes. The first couple times it didnt want to start. It finally kicked over and had a high idle. (1950rpm) Then it started to idle down, and then it back fired and started surging. WTF NOW!?!?
With a loud POP, she died.
Woudnt start, would only turn over....
F--KING CAR!!!
I think Ill put it under a cover and go back to working on old Carbureted Small blocks :frown:
Upset and disapointed
Craig
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Cam sensor, no fuel pressure, crank sensor or bad maf...
BW
BW
Quick6'n'-K.C. said:
My luck, its probably all of em.
Ill hook the noid light up,(It has fuel pressure) and Ill check for spark...This **** is getting old quick. Id just like to drive it before snow hits the ground.
Is this common for these cars? Work on them only to hear them run so you can fix something else??
Yee Haa!!
(being sarcastic)
Craig
DMan
buh bye
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I know its a little late, but I don't think the rear main seal replacement procedure on gnttype is the end all be all.
1. I try to not use RTV. Especially on the mating surfaces of the cap to the block. If you do, you have to spread it PAPER THIN or thinner. Otherwise, it might leave you with too much clearance on the bearing and you will hemmorage oil.
2. You could use RTV to fill those side channels, but I have used the pins and rubber inserts with good results.
3. The sealant I now use is a shellac-like compound from NAPA. Its called Mohawk Aircraft Sealant or something like that. Its brown, and you thin it with denatured alcohol. As it dries, it becomes a very thin, sticky film, almost like the residue left behind by adhesive tape.
I suggested early on in this thread that mods be done one at a time. Now the debug becomes more difficult. Oh well, its not like I'm not guilty of that either. Just keep plugging! And yes..GNs are all about patience, perseverance and the drive-break-fix-drive cycle. But the payoff is sweet!
Below is my main cap with RTV..never again!
1. I try to not use RTV. Especially on the mating surfaces of the cap to the block. If you do, you have to spread it PAPER THIN or thinner. Otherwise, it might leave you with too much clearance on the bearing and you will hemmorage oil.
2. You could use RTV to fill those side channels, but I have used the pins and rubber inserts with good results.
3. The sealant I now use is a shellac-like compound from NAPA. Its called Mohawk Aircraft Sealant or something like that. Its brown, and you thin it with denatured alcohol. As it dries, it becomes a very thin, sticky film, almost like the residue left behind by adhesive tape.
I suggested early on in this thread that mods be done one at a time. Now the debug becomes more difficult. Oh well, its not like I'm not guilty of that either. Just keep plugging! And yes..GNs are all about patience, perseverance and the drive-break-fix-drive cycle. But the payoff is sweet!
Below is my main cap with RTV..never again!
Attachments
Here are the pictures of the radiator.
Here is the adapter I mentioned.
Here are the two tranny lines hooked up.
This is the bracket I had to remove to get the Rad. to fit back in its stock loction because of the above adapters.
Everything installed, including the un painted shroud.
And lastly, a picture of the Cam sensor and Fuel pressure gauge.
It has fuel pressure, and the cam sensor "wheel"does rotate when the engine is turned over.
I did try and start it again tonight, it tried to fire (popped and banged) but it would not start. It almost sounds like its 180 out, but it rain GREAT before it "popped" and died. I dont see how the Cam sensor could be fugged up. Do the Caps on them just "go out"??
Here is the adapter I mentioned.
Here are the two tranny lines hooked up.
This is the bracket I had to remove to get the Rad. to fit back in its stock loction because of the above adapters.
Everything installed, including the un painted shroud.
And lastly, a picture of the Cam sensor and Fuel pressure gauge.
It has fuel pressure, and the cam sensor "wheel"does rotate when the engine is turned over.
I did try and start it again tonight, it tried to fire (popped and banged) but it would not start. It almost sounds like its 180 out, but it rain GREAT before it "popped" and died. I dont see how the Cam sensor could be fugged up. Do the Caps on them just "go out"??
DMan
buh bye
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Try some easy stuff.
Unplug ECM power. Remove chip. Check it. Make sure contacts and pins are clean. Plug back in. Apply power.
In the photos your cam sensor appears to be in the right ballpark if the engine was in TDC position. Is the engine near TDC for #1 in that photo?
Is your crank sensor properly aligned with the interrupter ring? Did you adjust it at all?
Unplug ECM power. Remove chip. Check it. Make sure contacts and pins are clean. Plug back in. Apply power.
In the photos your cam sensor appears to be in the right ballpark if the engine was in TDC position. Is the engine near TDC for #1 in that photo?
Is your crank sensor properly aligned with the interrupter ring? Did you adjust it at all?
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
It has fuel pressure, and the cam sensor "wheel"does rotate when the engine is turned over.
If the "wheel" aka cam sensor doesnt turn, which drives the oil pump gear then either the cam shaft isnt turning or the CAM SENSOR is not seated and is UP 1/4 inch and NOT seated making the cam sensor rotate....
If you grab the sensor "wheel" and its tight and doesnt spin freely, then the cam sensor and "wheel" is fine, most likely its you got lucky the one time it fired, and the shaft wasnt seated into the oil pump gear.....
Probably should have been making alot of noise, and low oil pressure.
Pull the cam sensor out, check to see if you have alot of metal shavings now, find TDC, turn the oil pump gear to 11oclock, realize that when you push the cam sensor in it will rotate 1/8th turn. Make sure there is no gap between the cam sensor and timing cover where the oring is, if you have a gap, dont try and use the bolt to suck it in, should press down by hand
816 215 4679
call at 11:00 CST
BW
If the "wheel" aka cam sensor doesnt turn, which drives the oil pump gear then either the cam shaft isnt turning or the CAM SENSOR is not seated and is UP 1/4 inch and NOT seated making the cam sensor rotate....
If you grab the sensor "wheel" and its tight and doesnt spin freely, then the cam sensor and "wheel" is fine, most likely its you got lucky the one time it fired, and the shaft wasnt seated into the oil pump gear.....
Probably should have been making alot of noise, and low oil pressure.
Pull the cam sensor out, check to see if you have alot of metal shavings now, find TDC, turn the oil pump gear to 11oclock, realize that when you push the cam sensor in it will rotate 1/8th turn. Make sure there is no gap between the cam sensor and timing cover where the oring is, if you have a gap, dont try and use the bolt to suck it in, should press down by hand
816 215 4679
call at 11:00 CST
BW
Quick6'n'-K.C. said:
THANKS.
But it DOES rotate and it is 'seated' not 1/4" up.
I got a new Crank sensor so Ill be doing that later today or tomorrow.
Ill keep you informed.
Thanks again for the number and I WILL be calling if the Crank Sensor doesnt get it to fire.
Craig
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
LOL, for some reason i thought you said, doesnt turn.... Well, i would have been right if it was that route.
Keep the number call if you need to.
Over the phone would be alot easier.
BW
Keep the number call if you need to.
Over the phone would be alot easier.
BW
