Im stumped

ScottyG

Active Member
Joined
May 12, 2014
Issue when I start the car it runs fine. Than bam idle all over the place. Won't rev up hardly and stalls once in gear. Once u get it into gear the car bucks and surges and won't even get close to O vac on the gauge .scanmaster numbers read all good intil idle messes up but than it's fine after idle comes back to normal .
I threw a bunch of known good parts at it. Smoke test it and all . Reset the cam sensor and the crank sensor . Is timing off? With the trans/ls1 maf the car will only run on one chip. If I throw in another chip it will throw a maf 34 code but if I throw that chip my other car it's fine? I'm stumped blm do drop to 118 . Pretty much done everything I can think of at it
 
Try a known good O2 sensor.
If you see BLM's ranging between 105 and 127, then the ecm is removing fuel to lean the A/F down to optimize the fuel curve. If the BLM's are 129-150, then the ECM is adding fuel to richen the A/F to optimize the curve.
As stated prior, the ECM depends upon the O2 sensor for guidance as to whether richen or lean the A/F ratio. Therefore the O2 sensor must be in good working order.
 
It's a brand new heated o2 conversion from Casper. I know what are the numbers mean I the scan master . I even pulled all the plugs out to Regap them. There all dry even tho it's taking fuel out? It don't run long before it runs like crap but than straightens out at only . Still won't even build 0 vac either way . Revving the car in park is fine but trying to drive it nope
 
Since I lack info for you guys to help.
Off my buddy's car that runs 124mphs at the track
We used his
ecu
Coil/ign mod
Trans/ls1
Wires
Cam sensor/cap
Crank sensor
Car has brand new 02 from caspers

Now the only thing we can't use his his chip. The chip we have has the same combo 80s e-85 when we use his chip it throws a code 34 but when we use the chip in his car it runs fine and hit 33lbs like his chip does doesn't miss a beat . That's another part why I'm stumped
 
Without knowing what all you have tried, it would be difficult to pinpoint. I agree, unplug the O2 sensor and see what gives. I have seen bad O2s out of the box and also seen O2s collect condensation during drastic temp changes in spring and fall.
If no Vac/boost is present, then the MAF could be the culprit.
 
Without knowing what all you have tried, it would be difficult to pinpoint. I agree, unplug the O2 sensor and see what gives. I have seen bad O2s out of the box and also seen O2s collect condensation during drastic temp changes in spring and fall.
If no Vac/boost is present, then the MAF could be the culprit.

I told u what I have done. It has gauges in the car . parts are off a car that runs 11.0 at 124 every time Me and my buddy have both of the same build runs the same this car we are working on does not want to run
 
Yeah, I was writing my last post just as you were posting what you had done... Good luck.
 
Did you check your fuseable links down by your starter ?
 
My understanding is you swapped your buddy's ECM into your car with no change in the way it runs. You put your chip in his car and his car still runs fine.

I'm not sure where I saw you used your ECM AND chip in his car and vice versa. Maybe I missed it but if I didn't, that might be worth a try.

Chris's idea above about checking the fusible links by the starter is a very good one. Those things see a LOT of heat.
 
While it's running tap the orange wire up at the battery that powers the ECM. That was my problem 3 days ago. Partial break inside the fuseable ink there.
 
How about the maf? Is it stock? Have you tried another one that is known to be good?
Yes 2 maf off are cars are good since we run 30+lbs lol check the fusible links we do have fuel pressure gauge /afr gauge /boost / scanmaster
 
I had a problem like you described. Running in park fine but in gear not so good.

Turned many of the spark plugs were going bad. I changed all six with new ones and the engine did much better.

Have "T" plugs ? if so, install non "T" like NGKs or E3s.
 
Make sure your crank sensor isn't hitting on one of the blades of the balancer.
 
Did all that .. what I don't be get is the chip in the car is set up the same as my chip and buddy's chip. When I swap in are chips to the car it throws a code 34 right away. When I put back on the chip that came out it goes away. Don't matter what ecu is in the car code 34 pops up intil I put back in the chip that came with the car. I can put that chip my my car and it is fine
 
So your car throws a code 34 when you put your buddys chip in??

Does your chip work in your buddies car?
 
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