Is my converter toast?

Mark

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2001
I've lost count of the number of times I've had the transmission out of my car. I rebuilt the transmission over the winter with some PTS parts I'd purchased years ago. It was my first rebuild, so when I noticed slippage, I figured I'd screwed something up. It behaves normally when cruising but when I hammer it, it immediately goes to redline. It still pulls like a freight train, but acts like a CVT. I drained some fluid and there was no debris but it looks burnt. I thought I'd check one more thing before pulling the transmission, so I took it out, locked the converter and nailed it. It behaved normally...

I have a pre-billet PTS 9/11 with a 3k stall. If I foot brake it, it'll go to almost 4k without spinning the tires. So, I assume the converter's shot. My best guess is that the stock input splines are coming apart.

Any other thoughts? Who should I have fix the converter? Is there a decent shop in Central Ohio?

Thanks
 
Send it back to the place that made it in the first place. Had mine cleaned out & re-stalled recently for pretty reasonable $.

http://www.tcsperformance.com/contact.html

Contact Rusty at TCS Performance, 2180 College Drive, Lake Havasu City, Arizona 86403.....
phone #928-453-4020


dave
 
I guess I should qualify that. The pressures are good with the car stationary. I don't have a fixed gauge in the car. It's overfilled by about a quart, so I don't think it's starving...
 
Are you using a bottom feed filter? If it is pulling as hard as you say I'd heed the bison advice.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Yes, stock pan and filter. I should take it for a ride with the gauge taped to the windshield...
 
That's the way I do it. Duct tape and the hose up under the windshield. My hose/gauge came with what looks like an air quick connect to make snaking the hose up easier. You might consider a 700r4 bottom feed filter too.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
OK, I have about 200psi at a bit under full TV (3/4?) when it exhibits the symptoms. RPM pretty much redlines per the LED tach. I accidentally hit the lockup and the RPM immediately dropped to something more reasonable... and the car went sideways at about 55mph...

I keep reaching the same conclusion...
 
OK, I have about 200psi at a bit under full TV (3/4?) when it exhibits the symptoms. RPM pretty much redlines per the LED tach. I accidentally hit the lockup and the RPM immediately dropped to something more reasonable... and the car went sideways at about 55mph...

I keep reaching the same conclusion...
Id want to see at least 250psi at full throttle and not dropping on a ratio change. You should hit full tv before the throttle is. 100% open. If the trans is slipping the clutches will be shot after one incident if the car has any power and the fluid will have the burned smell. At 500+hp I'd expect that converter to flash to 5000rpm.
 
Id want to see at least 250psi at full throttle and not dropping on a ratio change. You should hit full tv before the throttle is. 100% open
For what its worth, I think it had about 275 in 3 & D at idle with the TV manually extended to full throttle. I only have Turbolink and it wasn't set up, so I'm just guessing at throttle position. It behaved similarly at full throttle. Too many cars out this evening to go full throttle... I suppose there's still the possibility there's a fluid pickup problem. Pressure and volume are different things, but have you seen converters starve at 200 psi?
 
For what its worth, I think it had about 275 in 3 & D at idle with the TV manually extended to full throttle. I only have Turbolink and it wasn't set up, so I'm just guessing at throttle position. It behaved similarly at full throttle. Too many cars out this evening to go full throttle... I suppose there's still the possibility there's a fluid pickup problem. Pressure and volume are different things, but have you seen converters starve at 200 psi?
If you had 200psi in your converter your thrust bearing would be shot after one hit. 40psi max in the charge circuit
 
Thought I'd update the post. I put the stock turbo on it and put a stock converter in it and it behaves normally, so it was a bad converter. Anyplace closer than AZ that can rebuild a 9/11?
 
Thought I'd update the post. I put the stock turbo on it and put a stock converter in it and it behaves normally, so it was a bad converter. Anyplace closer than AZ that can rebuild a 9/11?
Should be a place or two local to you with the equipment and know how to cut, clean, replace bushings/bearings and weld it back together for ya.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Depending on how bad the failure was, you can end up with $300+ in repairs. A simple clutch failure isn't a bad repair but if the clutch has been locking and grinding into the cover, you will end up replacing half of the converter. The bad thing is there's no way to know how bad it is until you cut it open. A local trans/converter shop can cut it open to see how bad it is and can advise on what may be needed.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
The lock-up behavior seemed normal and I didn't detect any slippage under lock.
 
Top