knock sensor

[Red Regal T]

A friend of mine damaged his knock sensor and needs a new one. Is this a dealer item. I understand the knock sensor for our cars is specific to TRs. Is that correct? Anybody have a part #? TIA...............

 

[strikeeagle]

2.383
SENSOR
ESC Knock
1997562

Based on the 7 digit P/N, I'd say it's been around and has other applications.

I think I recall (???) it converts to AC-Delco.

BTW, from memory, 14 LB/FT and no thread sealer.

strike

 

[Squid4life]

I just picked up an AC Delco knock sensor from a "better" jobber parts house. ACD # 213-325, GM# 10456287. Also, in the bar code it has the "GR. 2.383" as strike posted. I have read the knock sensor is kind of like the PCV valve, you should only run AC Delco. :smile:

 

[scot w.]

Proper torque for the knock sensor!!!

2.383
SENSOR
ESC Knock
1997562

Based on the 7 digit P/N, I'd say it's been around and has other applications.

I think I recall (???) it converts to AC-Delco.

BTW, from memory, 14 LB/FT and no thread sealer.

strike

The proper torque for the knock sensor is 14 in/lbs. "NOT 14ft/lbs" 14 ft/lbs IS WAY TOO TIGHT!!!!! AND WRONG....

 

[Red Regal T]

Hey guys......thanks for the info. On the torque.....14 foot/pounds ain't much at all. 14 inch/pounds sounds finger tight. I'd double check!

 

[Razor]

John.. I have an extra new on in the box..

You dont return phone calls

 

[Whtlightning]

14 ft-lbs (much tighter than finger tight)

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/torque.html

 

[strikeeagle]

14 ft-lbs (much tighter than finger tight)

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/torque.html

Thank you, sir!

strike

 

[scot w.]

14 ft-lbs (much tighter than finger tight)

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/torque.html

MUCH more sensitive too! I used teflon tape and tightened it finger tight and NO problems at all!! My direct scan don't show KR-retard and the same goes for my scanmaster. "You can put 10 plumbers together to plumb the same room and you'll get 10 different ways" This was just my .02 worth. Scot w.

 

[Squid4life]

MUCH more sensitive too! I used teflon tape and tightened it finger tight and NO problems at all!! My direct scan don't show KR-retard and the same goes for my scanmaster. "You can put 10 plumbers together to plumb the same room and you'll get 10 different ways" This was just my .02 worth. Scot w.

Does direct scan and scan master take readings from the knock sensor? I can disconnect mine, or wrap teflon around the threads and the knock gauge or TLink won't show it either, but it may still be there. Where did you see 14 inchlbs? Not bashing, just another plumber looking to get educated. :biggrin:

 

[strikeeagle]

MUCH more sensitive too! I used teflon tape and tightened it finger tight and NO problems at all!! My direct scan don't show KR-retard and the same goes for my scanmaster. "You can put 10 plumbers together to plumb the same room and you'll get 10 different ways" This was just my .02 worth. Scot w.

Scot,

Not to pick a fight, but where do you suppose GM's engineers came up with a very specific torque value like 14 ft-lbs, hardly a round number, and the recommendation not to use a thread sealer such as teflon? I suppose it was from testing the sensor at several values of torque and settling on a value that gave the appropriate sensitivity to the LC2's behavior, false and real knock considered, so that our motors would live.

Regardless, good luck with your thoughts on the subject.

strike

 

[Red Regal T]

You're NOT supposed to use teflon tape on the knock sensor. No wonder your having knock discrepancies.

 

[rodman99999]

You're NOT supposed to use teflon tape on the knock sensor. No wonder your having knock discrepancies.

Exactly- The Teflon would insulate the sensor from the frequency/vibration that knock produces (and that it's suppose to be reading), rendering it useless. Tighter or looser than recommended, and you've changed the frequency range it will respond to as well. Yes: GM did their homework, and didn't just pick the torque numbers out of the air. OH- why would anyone put teflon tape on something that doesn't need sealing?

 

[bbbbaad]

I just completed four weeks of troubleshooting a false knock problem to where I believe mine is solved. I am no expert on this, just a victim that had to figure it out. The end result for me was leaving the knock sensor very loose with no thread sealant. I only wish that someone had mentioned 14 inch pounds as being possible, because that is about what mine ended up at. I had it torqued to 14 ft lbs and had attrocious Kr, 60 deg+. I am no longer getting false knock and relatively certain that any knock that does come in will be picked up. I have Kr still coming through mildly on WOT at high revs and I can also see Kr when I tap on the motor with a wrench. The end result for me (and I am not speaking for the masses out there, only me) is a much better running car that now has it's freedom to run without 60 degrees of Kr stopping it. It's an amazing difference and I am the one that had to accept the fact that the sensor is installed the way I did it and also take responsibility if it fails and blows something. Mine won't work properly if torqued to 14 ft lb.

Just felt I needed to add my latest experience as others have helped me in the past. As soon as I heal from my surgery this week, I am headed back to the track to see what difference I have made.

Andy

 

[rodman99999]

I just completed four weeks of troubleshooting a false knock problem to where I believe mine is solved. I am no expert on this, just a victim that had to figure it out. The end result for me was leaving the knock sensor very loose with no thread sealant. I only wish that someone had mentioned 14 inch pounds as being possible, because that is about what mine ended up at. I had it torqued to 14 ft lbs and had attrocious Kr, 60 deg+. I am no longer getting false knock and relatively certain that any knock that does come in will be picked up. I have Kr still coming through mildly on WOT at high revs and I can also see Kr when I tap on the motor with a wrench. The end result for me (and I am not speaking for the masses out there, only me) is a much better running car that now has it's freedom to run without 60 degrees of Kr stopping it. It's an amazing difference and I am the one that had to accept the fact that the sensor is installed the way I did it and also take responsibility if it fails and blows something. Mine won't work properly if torqued to 14 ft lb.

Just felt I needed to add my latest experience as others have helped me in the past. As soon as I heal from my surgery this week, I am headed back to the track to see what difference I have made.

Andy

Is there any possibility that you need a new sensor(or- is your's new)? They DO go bad.

 

[Squid4life]

Is there any possibility that you need a new sensor(or- is your's new)? They DO go bad.

I am in a similar situation with knock, and will be replacing the sensor once I get my new front cover on. I am installing a new DELCO unit. I have read it is kind of like the PCV valve: only use GM.

 

[scot w.]

I just completed four weeks of troubleshooting a false knock problem to where I believe mine is solved. I am no expert on this, just a victim that had to figure it out. The end result for me was leaving the knock sensor very loose with no thread sealant. I only wish that someone had mentioned 14 inch pounds as being possible, because that is about what mine ended up at. I had it torqued to 14 ft lbs and had attrocious Kr, 60 deg+. I am no longer getting false knock and relatively certain that any knock that does come in will be picked up. I have Kr still coming through mildly on WOT at high revs and I can also see Kr when I tap on the motor with a wrench. The end result for me (and I am not speaking for the masses out there, only me) is a much better running car that now has it's freedom to run without 60 degrees of Kr stopping it. It's an amazing difference and I am the one that had to accept the fact that the sensor is installed the way I did it and also take responsibility if it fails and blows something. Mine won't work properly if torqued to 14 ft lb.

Just felt I needed to add my latest experience as others have helped me in the past. As soon as I heal from my surgery this week, I am headed back to the track to see what difference I have made.

Andy

This is my point! IF your getting FALSE knock with race gas, you do what bbbbaad done. stop just short of the FALSE knock threshold and you should still be able to pick up real motor knock. What's the difference between a Engineers boot's and a farmers boot's? The engineers boot's the crap is on the inside!! :biggrin: If we are going to bring up what a great job these GM engineers done, Let's bring up the crummy PCV valve/ EGR set up with our turbo car! all the blow back generated by the turbo.(bad!) there was a post on here recently that described all this in detail, to make a long story short, A EGR block off plate was installed and the vacume lines blocked off and the car Never ran better!!!!! The bottom line is: Do what works for you. every motor act's different to different things! Not one of our cars act alike! and that everyone should agree.. I'm done!

 

[Red Regal T]

Well, actually your point was, you corrected Strikeeagle and said 14 ft/lbs was wrong, and 14 in/lbs was right. The GM recommended value IS 14 ft/lbs. The recommended value would be the number to start at. If you have some unusual problem like the gentleman above, you have to do what you have to do. In his shoes, with the problem he encountered, I'd start with a different knock sensor. Maybe he did.

 

[bbbbaad]

Is there any possibility that you need a new sensor(or- is your's new)? They DO go bad.

Mine is brand new, Delco original. I don't think my original was bad, but it hit the trash can upon being removed, along with a bunch of other parts that I replaced trying to figure this out.

I must say that this was the most trying evolution I have experienced since anyone can list any part on the car as a possible source for knock and be right. I had to go back to the knock sensor four times to finally figure out what it was. I think I became intimate with my car on a couple of occasions, but shhhhhhhhh.....

Andy

 

[rodman99999]

Mine is brand new, Delco original. I don't think my original was bad, but it hit the trash can upon being removed, along with a bunch of other parts that I replaced trying to figure this out.

I must say that this was the most trying evolution I have experienced since anyone can list any part on the car as a possible source for knock and be right. I had to go back to the knock sensor four times to finally figure out what it was. I think I became intimate with my car on a couple of occasions, but shhhhhhhhh.....

Andy

It was just a thought. How are you motor mounts? Any part of the engine(exhaust maybe) near the frame or suspension? Intercooler shroud near the sway bar?