Lawn Care

turbojitsu85

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2002
Whats does everyone do for lawn care? I've been living in this house for 2 years now and the lawn was a little miss treated when we bought it. It looks better then what it did but not great. I would like it greener and thicker like Wrigley field. I've been fertilizing with Scotts which is getting expensive mowing it high and watering regularly but what else should I be doing or what else can I be using?
 
First cut it lower dont scalp it though if you get a few yellow spots no biggie..You dont have to cut it that high if you train it, it takes a lil while tho...Next rake the crap out of it you will be suprised how much dead grass and bs will come out.. Buy grass seed and throw it out there in the thinner areas and sprinkle dirt over it to keep the birds away not piles of dirt sprinkle seed all over and do the same with the dirt and also use.. http://www.milorganite.com/ it wont burn your grass no matter how much you put down....water in the mornin or in the evening never during the day....Buy gator blades for your lawnmower and criss cross cut it like an x...first go all one direction then all the other direction...if you are usin a dull standard blade then you are wasting your time.....
 
I can tell you what NOT to do. Don't rinse out your IC on the lawn. I still have a bare spot where I pulled that stunt.

~JM~
 
Whats does everyone do for lawn care? I've been living in this house for 2 years now and the lawn was a little miss treated when we bought it. It looks better then what it did but not great. I would like it greener and thicker like Wrigley field. I've been fertilizing with Scotts which is getting expensive mowing it high and watering regularly but what else should I be doing or what else can I be using?


Mowing it higher like you're doing will give it a much bettter chance to fill in the bares spots than it would if you cut it low. I spread Scotts Turf builder plus II in the spring, and overseed every spring. Cutting it too low wont allow it to spread/fill in, and will yield a yellower lawn. Just keep at it, it takes a couple years to overcome abuse.
 
I use goats to cut the grass and once it gets hot enough down here I don't worry about it.:) No reason to waste money if you can save it after all.:D
 
if you live near philly .. hire a company called LAND CREW ..the owners name is paul .. tell them i sent you :D.. anywhere else .. hire an hispanic lawn care company .. they really know how to maintain lawns cheaply .. just dont tell them about the fridge in the garage with beer in it .. my home in AZ .. i use a leaf blower to clean the lava rock !!
 
Interesting thread...getting and obtaining a golf course/funeral home/ball park lawn is a never ending task. A lofty goal for sure.
Its best to start with a new lawn and have some service contract where every 60 days or so they come in and treat the lawn.

Another option we did was laid down far more driveway than the percentage allowed. Black top is more costly in the beginning but in the long run it pays off. Narrowest point is about 14 feet across.

Good luck on getting that perfect lawn....

denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
Just keep at it, it takes a couple years to overcome abuse.

This is definatley something I have noticed. Once I started using a mulching mower and doing the weed and feed thing, it started looking better every year!
 
Spreading sand will help to retain water but u must have a good back or some hardworking kids.
 
Thanks guys I appreciate all the advice. I sharpen and clean the mower every year but I'm gonna try one of those gator blades. Weeds and bare spots aren't a problem it just isn't a consistent green through out the lawn. I don't mean that there is yellowing either it's just some parts are a darker green and other spots are a light green.
 
Try to water in the mornings. If you are using an old school sprinkler make sure to leave it in areas for 15 to 20 minutes each spot. Stay away from mid-day watering, as the water will act as a magnifying glass-especially if you are not getting the water deep enough. Watering is useless unless it gets 6 to 12 inches deep into the soil. Sandy soils need less water more often. Don't fertilize too much either as this can burn a lawn as well. In the spring- use a nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium w/ a 2:1:1 ratio at about 4 lbs per 1000sq ft. In the fall use a 1:2:2 for healthy root promotion during winter. Always mow in a different direction (change your angles) every time you mow. Remove thatch (clumps) immediately after every mow. Clumps and nitrogen are a haven for disease and lawn pests. You can rake out or use a backpack blower. Hand-helds just dont have enough a$$. Light clippings are ok to leave as they will compost and turn in to healthy nutrients for your lawn. Don't use a hispanic lawn crew. They don't know sh*t about lawns. Is mexico known for its emerald lawns? No. They are cheap because they make $4 per hour. You get what you pay for.

Also, when it comes to seeding- you need to select a compatible seed with your yard. Fescues are normally great for starting a lawn as they grow quick (start quick) and help other grasses thrive, but fescues die out within a year. Overseeding= throwing seed, not slice seeding. Make sure to check the weed content on the bag. If it does not list it on the bag, dont buy it because it is sh*t.

With the above taken into consideration, you may very well have a lawn disease. Post up some pics of your lawn. Disease is easliy mistaken for burnt grass. Good luck with your lawn.

Edit- uneven fert is often suspect for uneven color. As mentioned before-sharp blades are a must. I like to lightly water after a dry fertilizer is put down, especially on hilly areas to keep the fertilizer from washing down to low spots.
 
First off, you need to establish what's in your soil. A soil test will tell you if you're lacking or if you have an over-abundance of a certain nutrient. We service properties that range from $80k to $4 mill. + and if the owner wants a nice lawn, this is always the first step. We cut our lawns @ 3.5" tall so as to have nice lush turf, but not too tall that it's gonna look shaggy. This will also help block out sunlight to the weeds. As for weeds, we use several types of herbicides to alleviate them. If you water the lawn too much & it stays warm overnight, you run the risk of getting fungus in the turf (the turf will appear as if it's dying or in need of more water). Once this happens, a fungicide will then be needed! In the Fall you can aerate the lawn, overseed, fertilize, & apply lime if needed. Keep the turf free of leaves, sticks, grass clumps, & animal waste if you want it to look it's best. As for fertilizers, we use human waste compound types (milorganite) o turkey compost based varities. They both stink (it's crap, so it's going to!), but they'll green it up big time! Hope this helps you at least get started.
 
I haven't sharpened the blades in 6+ years. I don't over water, keep dogs off it, and try to keep it pretty clean. Once or twice per year use Scotts turf builder. I think you're supposed to aerate every few years too?
 
Pic as requested. That center spot of grass is the spot that I laid sod down last year after removing a bush that they had planted in the middle of the yard. Also the planter wall is new I built that at the end of last year.
001.JPG
 
Your lawn looks pretty nice. I like the wall. Im not really a big fan of sod. The square by the wall is pretty dark (sport blend maybe?) Unless you lay an entire yard at once, it tends to vary in color like that. From the pic it looks like the low spots are a little darker than the high spots. It could be a result of more water running to the low spots or fertilizer runoff in the rain. It could also be different types of grass. During a heavy rain does water lay in the dark spots? When you fertilze do you run just one direction? Normally I try to apply 2 light coats in perpendicular fashion, ie grid pattern (#);then take a hose and give it a good mist. Michael McCoy had some great advice as well.
 
First off, you need to establish what's in your soil. A soil test will tell you if you're lacking or if you have an over-abundance of a certain nutrient. We service properties that range from $80k to $4 mill. + and if the owner wants a nice lawn, this is always the first step. We cut our lawns @ 3.5" tall so as to have nice lush turf, but not too tall that it's gonna look shaggy. This will also help block out sunlight to the weeds. As for weeds, we use several types of herbicides to alleviate them. If you water the lawn too much & it stays warm overnight, you run the risk of getting fungus in the turf (the turf will appear as if it's dying or in need of more water). Once this happens, a fungicide will then be needed! In the Fall you can aerate the lawn, overseed, fertilize, & apply lime if needed. Keep the turf free of leaves, sticks, grass clumps, & animal waste if you want it to look it's best. As for fertilizers, we use human waste compound types (milorganite) o turkey compost based varities. They both stink (it's crap, so it's going to!), but they'll green it up big time! Hope this helps you at least get started.


This is the thing the vast majority of homeowners forget - test your soil. Balance the PH, and it will grow MUCH better.
 
Jitsu what you've got looks real nice bud. We aerate our customers' lawns every year. The drought of '07 was bad on all the yards in the South that year, but our's rebounded the following year with a little tlc. We fertilize our yards several times a year and "winterize" them too. This is why I spent 14 hours today mowing, mowing again, cross cutting, & busting up grass clumps :eek: Keep up the good work.
 
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