Looks like cam gear keyway issues paging kevinb

BobbyBuick

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Kev ,can you PM or Email me your phone number .I found this today and cant get the gear off.................
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sheared clean at cam gear .Gear was gauled to cam and had moved maybe 15 degrees..Hoping rods and valves are Okay!
cant believe the gear stayed on the shaft with no keyway
 
Is that possibly the problem you were having at Norwalk?? Did you ever figure that out?? Mike:cool:
 
That is exactly what happened to mine. Lucky for me only damage was 6 slightly bent exhaust valves. Hope your luck is the same!
 
And that's exactly what happened to a buddy's of mine. He bent valves and push rods. Weber said the end bolt wasn't torqued right ???? Funny thing was it was one of thier built engines.
 
I dont think I bent anything .ill check closer this week.What is the torque spec on the end bolt ?
it was running cam retarded 15 or so degees im guessing
 

Dang!! I guess it is obvious why it took so long to find that!! I guess you will be ready for this year , very shortly!! I thighten mine up so tight it scares me:eek::eek: But I havent had that happen yet. Rock has done that a couple times!! Mike:cool:
 
Thats the problem Bob. I will give you a call tomorrow with a fix. The key should not stick out past the end of the cam. From the pick it looks like it does. If so then you would not have the proper press.
 
torque

I was told bolt had to be torqued 70 ft. lbs.

Bobby doesn't show his bolt but, all the ones I've seen except one has an undercut just behind the hex. I assume the reason for the undercut has something to do with putting the threads on. I torque mine to 55 Ft. Lbs. with blue Loctite. I would think 70 might be a little high ( not knowing what material the bolt is). I would be afraid of twisting the head off. "Attention to detail" is a MUST on the cam end. The length of the key, how far the end of cam is recessed into the drive gear and torque.
 
Lee, yes all needs to be stacked on there right but that torque number is right in Webers installation instructions and was also told to me by Bryan on the phone. I thought at the time DAMN that's ALOT for that size bolt but he said don't worry and torque it to 70 lbs. In fact he said 50 to 55 was not enough. Anyway I went 32,000 miles on one of thier billet cam set ups with that bolt torqued to 70 Ft. Lbs. and never had a problem. ??
Yes with MANY 1/4 mile passes also.
This has been several years back when I talked to him about this.
 
5361777429_2671fa66e4_z.jpg

sheared clean at cam gear .Gear was gauled to cam and had moved maybe 15 degrees..Hoping rods and valves are Okay!
cant believe the gear stayed on the shaft with no keyway

Hmmm.......... there has to be some reason this happened.

Do you remember which way the gear had spun on the cam?
 
Hmmm.......... there has to be some reason this happened.

Because there is only a 1/4" of keyway holding the gear in position to begin with. Just an FYI for all of you. I use to setup an old cut off cam up in my bridgeport and drill and pin the dist gear - concentric - cam hub all together as one piece so that it was all being driven by the entire keyway together!!
I started doing that after Jim Rock broke the same thing and tore up quite a bit of stuff. You may need to be doing the same thing!! Mike:cool:
 
Hmmm.......... there has to be some reason this happened.

Because there is only a 1/4" of keyway holding the gear in position to begin with. Just an FYI for all of you. I use to setup an old cut off cam up in my bridgeport and drill and pin the dist gear - concentric - cam hub all together as one piece so that it was all being driven by the entire keyway together!!
I started doing that after Jim Rock broke the same thing and tore up quite a bit of stuff. You may need to be doing the same thing!! Mike:cool:

Mike how much would you charge me to do that if I bring my cam and gear and everything with me? My work takes me to Middletown and sometimes Dayton once a week so I'm not too far.
 
Hmmm.......... there has to be some reason this happened.

Because there is only a 1/4" of keyway holding the gear in position to begin with. Just an FYI for all of you. I use to setup an old cut off cam up in my bridgeport and drill and pin the dist gear - concentric - cam hub all together as one piece so that it was all being driven by the entire keyway together!!
I started doing that after Jim Rock broke the same thing and tore up quite a bit of stuff. You may need to be doing the same thing!! Mike:cool:

O snap! Great idea! Now I have to take mine back apart.:biggrin:

If you do another, take some pics for us.
 
Hmmm.......... there has to be some reason this happened.

Because there is only a 1/4" of keyway holding the gear in position to begin with. Just an FYI for all of you. I use to setup an old cut off cam up in my bridgeport and drill and pin the dist gear - concentric - cam hub all together as one piece so that it was all being driven by the entire keyway together!!
I started doing that after Jim Rock broke the same thing and tore up quite a bit of stuff. You may need to be doing the same thing!! Mike:cool:

Mike,Dave Knopp is polishing and honing the surfaces of the cam and gear today.I think he is looking into cutting the cam back and square to accept a hex key.If you look where the gear rides on the woodruff key there is hardly any surface there!
Also think Im going to make a steel bushing in lieu of aluminum to insure the crush is held from the nose bolt.
 
Mike,Dave Knopp is polishing and honing the surfaces of the cam and gear today.I think he is looking into cutting the cam back and square to accept a hex key.If you look where the gear rides on the woodruff key there is hardly any surface there!
Also think Im going to make a steel bushing in lieu of aluminum to insure the crush is held from the nose bolt.

Bobby, That is a very good idea also!! That should be much stronger. Problem is that the cam gear is held by about a 1/4" of keyway which is basically not even in the grove of the cam at that point. Mike:cool:
 
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