Well with all the **** you have been threw why the hell didn't you use the 27k motor as it was ??? Seems like ya don't know what the hell your doin !!! Throwing $$$$ isn't doin anything. Just sappin parts on a engine isn't goin to do a damm thing (as you can now see) . You need someone who knows what the hell they are doin !
Lost fer Words. Not again!
- Thread starter EVIL
- Start date
Well maybe you can help me Einstein!
Those are some bullshit words from you. Slapping heads and an intake isn't rocket science and I have done many with success.
I put this thing together quite well and everything was triple checked. You think you know better? then come down and give it your best. You’re an hour and 20 away.
D
hmmmm.. obviously it wasn't checked very good THREE times! EVERYTHING should be gone over in the car with all the problems it has had. Sorry I only work on my own cars and houses. Thats enuff to keep my old bones goin !! Tell me... Why not throw the whole 27k motor in the car ??? Bolt on's alone would get it in the low 11s. To easy ???
It's very tuff to "warranty" motors. Machine shops have no control on what happens once guys put it in their car. Did you assemble it ??
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/more-weber-issues-from-my-motor.401113/
I’ll stick to turning my own nuts and bolts to my ability.
I assembled everything up from the short block.
Since it was out of the car it would be a shame to not change the timing chain and springs.
Whit that in mind it was just as easy installing my double roller, roller cam, ported heads with roller cam beehive springs and matching ported intake and HS rockers.
I’m pretty sure it’s a sensor of some kind or something to that effect.
When I start it cold it runs great and sounds great. It purrs even. When it warms up a bit is when a slightly rough idle begins then dies.
I am very confident it the work I have done putting this together.
D
I’ll stick to turning my own nuts and bolts to my ability.
I assembled everything up from the short block.
Since it was out of the car it would be a shame to not change the timing chain and springs.
Whit that in mind it was just as easy installing my double roller, roller cam, ported heads with roller cam beehive springs and matching ported intake and HS rockers.
I’m pretty sure it’s a sensor of some kind or something to that effect.
When I start it cold it runs great and sounds great. It purrs even. When it warms up a bit is when a slightly rough idle begins then dies.
I am very confident it the work I have done putting this together.
D
It’s a new one that I bought from a member on here that was tuned up nice with great spark. He was selling a few of them. I’ll put my stock one back on and see what happens.
I just remembered that I’m using the crank sensor that came with the motor and not the one I was using. I broke the bracket on mind. That is pretty much the only sensor that isn’t from my old set up which was running good. Maybe I’ll put my old crank sensor in the good bracket too.
thanks
D
I just remembered that I’m using the crank sensor that came with the motor and not the one I was using. I broke the bracket on mind. That is pretty much the only sensor that isn’t from my old set up which was running good. Maybe I’ll put my old crank sensor in the good bracket too.
thanks
D
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
check the balancer bolt
Thanks Mike I will check that.
The fuel has been sitting for a year. A friend says that with the ethanol in the fuel these days it’s probably turned to gell.
I will change the fuel and see what happens. I know I know. should have been done from the go.
I’m curious about the people running E85. What happens to the fuel if they let the car sit for 4 months to a year?
D
The fuel has been sitting for a year. A friend says that with the ethanol in the fuel these days it’s probably turned to gell.
I will change the fuel and see what happens. I know I know. should have been done from the go.
I’m curious about the people running E85. What happens to the fuel if they let the car sit for 4 months to a year?
D
haywire4130
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2010
I run marine sta-bil in everything gas powered I own. That being said, 15 gallons of fuel isnt going to turn to "gel". Do you have a way of checking fuel pressure? If pressure is good you could pull the rail and injectors and see if theres any shmeg trapped in there. Is your tank venting? (run it till it dies and open gas cap). I would ohm the coil after it stalls too and compare to cold readings. Only takes a second. Sorry to read about your bad luck
FASTV6HENRY
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2012
So i read all the posts and i didnt catch what he engine builder said about the bearing failure. Also i think you mentioned its a new transmission did you get a higher pressure pump because that may give you some bearing issues but mostley tend to be in the thrust bearing. I hope eveything is working out for you.
Today I re-checked fuel pressure and it’s right at 43lbs.
the harmonic balancer bolt was tight.
I also did a compression check of all cylinders.
1=130lbs
2=145lbs
3=135lbs
4=135lbs
5=130lbs
6=130lbs
Checked every plug wire for spark pulled from plug.
All had spark and the car ran worse with them all pulled individually.
I also changed my ECM with a known good one and no difference.
I did the IAC reset procedure and it did run a bit better and stayed idling very low.
It did sound like a really cammed out car though which is far from normal.
I also gave the MAF a couple of taps while running but it didn’t do much if anything.
After the IAC reset and the tapping of the MAF while it was idling very low the motor would rev up every 5 to 8 seconds.
I do believe the tapping of the MAF did nothing that was noticeable.
My original cam sensor had a little play in it so i used a differ one when putting this together. I will put the old one in to see if it changes.
I will also put my original crank sensor in this bracket and see what happens.
I did one thing at a time and started the car after each time looking for a difference. This mini starter I bought from TBuiks can take a beating if anyone needs one. Just saying.
pics of the plugs are included 1 thru 6 in order top to bottom. It appears to be running rich
number 4 was the darkest.
Also after the IAC reset when I saw it was running different I attempted to set the IAC and TPS going back and forth.
No matter position of the IAC adjustment screw was, all the way in or out, when I would set the TPS back to .42 the IAC was always reading around 175.
D
the harmonic balancer bolt was tight.
I also did a compression check of all cylinders.
1=130lbs
2=145lbs
3=135lbs
4=135lbs
5=130lbs
6=130lbs
Checked every plug wire for spark pulled from plug.
All had spark and the car ran worse with them all pulled individually.
I also changed my ECM with a known good one and no difference.
I did the IAC reset procedure and it did run a bit better and stayed idling very low.
It did sound like a really cammed out car though which is far from normal.
I also gave the MAF a couple of taps while running but it didn’t do much if anything.
After the IAC reset and the tapping of the MAF while it was idling very low the motor would rev up every 5 to 8 seconds.
I do believe the tapping of the MAF did nothing that was noticeable.
My original cam sensor had a little play in it so i used a differ one when putting this together. I will put the old one in to see if it changes.
I will also put my original crank sensor in this bracket and see what happens.
I did one thing at a time and started the car after each time looking for a difference. This mini starter I bought from TBuiks can take a beating if anyone needs one. Just saying.
pics of the plugs are included 1 thru 6 in order top to bottom. It appears to be running rich
number 4 was the darkest.
Also after the IAC reset when I saw it was running different I attempted to set the IAC and TPS going back and forth.
No matter position of the IAC adjustment screw was, all the way in or out, when I would set the TPS back to .42 the IAC was always reading around 175.
D
Attachments
So the car dies when closed loop or open loop? That would be a good indication of where to start.
I recently had issue with a vac leak. It was to the point where when the car was in closed loop idle, perfect, flawless. The second it went to open loop, you noticed an irregularity in idle. Again while the car was cold you couldn't tell anything. Double check that you don't have any vac leaks. Specifically coming from the intake gasket. I called my intake pipe off after the maf with PVC piping from Home Depot and capped off the exhaust. Then I took the air compressor and connected it to the vac line right where it hooks up to the map sensor. Turned the air on to 20psi, and look for leaks. The leak came from the intake valley pan gasket. Replacing that now. I had knock too. ECM was pulling timing after a few second in boost above 5psi. When at max boost (15psi) I would see 5-7 degrees of timing being pulled. All because of the vac leak.
Just suggesting this so that a vac leak can be ruled out.
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I had no luck using carb cleaner on the intake gasket. Idle never changed. I have yet to see idle change when using that or brake cleaner. I would say maybe ether.
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yes I did. It’s a roller cam set up and everything looked good. The cam bearings were fine as well.
Even the front and rear main bearings were good. Just those two centers were bad.
There was no visible wear on the cam, rollers on lifters and rockers. Not a scratch!
D
Even the front and rear main bearings were good. Just those two centers were bad.
There was no visible wear on the cam, rollers on lifters and rockers. Not a scratch!
D
