Low voltage

Sounds like your ignition switch is a little cruddy and not passing full voltage.

Where's the engine grounds? I'd like to clean them up first. How do I test that the alternator is putting out proper voltage? I had it tested once and it came back good but my battery died fast from the winter but it did sit for awhile.
 
the grounds are that from the battery to the front of the block turbo bracket bolt make sure its clean of paint nice and tight get a battery post extender negitive side and measure from there to the chassie rail there's a hole there already you will also need to fine a bolt to bolt in then you know you will have a good chassie ground its not factory but should have been, and the other grounds from negitive cable to the fender go through them all make sure non of them are frail and are nice and clean and tight,then the one at the back of the block head .some people take that one and move it to the intake bolt from there it goes to firewall same thing take them out and go through strip any paint and make sure everything tight
 
the grounds are that from the battery to the front of the block turbo bracket bolt make sure its clean of paint nice and tight get a battery post extender negitive side and measure from there to the chassie rail there's a hole there already you will also need to fine a bolt to bolt in then you know you will have a good chassie ground its not factory but should have been, and the other grounds from negitive cable to the fender go through them all make sure non of them are frail and are nice and clean and tight,then the one at the back of the block head .some people take that one and move it to the intake bolt from there it goes to firewall same thing take them out and go through strip any paint and make sure everything tight
Thanks to everyone that replied and helped with this problem. New hot wire kit to fuel pump and new ground and BINGO. No voltage drop.
 
the grounds are that from the battery to the front of the block turbo bracket bolt make sure its clean of paint nice and tight get a battery post extender negitive side and measure from there to the chassie rail there's a hole there already you will also need to fine a bolt to bolt in then you know you will have a good chassie ground its not factory but should have been, and the other grounds from negitive cable to the fender go through them all make sure non of them are frail and are nice and clean and tight,then the one at the back of the block head .some people take that one and move it to the intake bolt from there it goes to firewall same thing take them out and go through strip any paint and make sure everything tight
My car is a hot air, I didn't see any grounds on the front of the engine. There is one at the negative on the battery cable that goes to the fender, but I'd like to check everything I can.
 
On your hot air they will be on the back side of the block where the trans bolts to the block

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Great info here! Thank you all for posting this!

I have been reading 12.9-13.9 on my scanmaster for a while now even with my new 140 amp alternator. I took some readings from the battery and the alternator and it was holding at 14.4.

Years ago it wasn't charging so I just added the Casper's field fix. I guess its time to run this down.

I'll be checking grounds and the ignition switch this week!

Thanks again!
 
Great info here! Thank you all for posting this!

I have been reading 12.9-13.9 on my scanmaster for a while now even with my new 140 amp alternator. I took some readings from the battery and the alternator and it was holding at 14.4.

Years ago it wasn't charging so I just added the Casper's field fix. I guess its time to run this down.

I'll be checking grounds and the ignition switch this week!

Thanks again!

I'd bet that some grounding reinforcements will help that voltage drop to your ecm a lot.
 
I'd bet that some grounding reinforcements will help that voltage drop to your ecm a lot.

Took your advice and added a main ground wire on my extra negative bat terminal to the frame and the body. Took off all of the grounds under the hood and scuffed the paint off to have direct metal to metal connection. I also ran a second ground wire from the negative wire (at the fuel pump) to the frame.

I still need to clean the ignition switch and add a direct ground from the dash to the frame and battery. But I started the car at the end of the night and the scanmaster read 14.2 volts for the first time since I owned the car.
 
Took your advice and added a main ground wire on my extra negative bat terminal to the frame and the body. Took off all of the grounds under the hood and scuffed the paint off to have direct metal to metal connection. I also ran a second ground wire from the negative wire (at the fuel pump) to the frame.

I still need to clean the ignition switch and add a direct ground from the dash to the frame and battery. But I started the car at the end of the night and the scanmaster read 14.2 volts for the first time since I owned the car.

Bingo! Glad to hear you did the work. It's the details with these cars. I haven't done the ignition ground yet; thanks for the advise back.
 
On your hot air they will be on the back side of the block where the trans bolts to the block

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How do I get to them to clean them?

My scaaster shows like 11 volts so I don't know if there are other areas I need to check on as well
 
Correction. On The hotair they are located on the mounting bracket on the front of the motor near the oil feedline

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Bingo! Glad to hear you did the work. It's the details with these cars. I haven't done the ignition ground yet; thanks for the advise back.

I couldn't agree more...its in the details. I have had my car since 2004 and I was always focused on the big picture and I just dealt with gremlins as needed. But not anymore! This year I'm taking care of all the little crap I've been putting off for so long.
 
Looks like I have 14.7 at the bat on start up and the scan master is reading 14.1-2.

The voltage increased at the battery since I repaired the grounds from 14.4 to 14.7. Is this something I should be concerned about?
 
Looks like I have 14.7 at the bat on start up and the scan master is reading 14.1-2.

The voltage increased at the battery since I repaired the grounds from 14.4 to 14.7. Is this something I should be concerned about?

It may gas the battery but that's where I run mine for voltage. I switched to an Optima battery to avoid the gas out.
 
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