Well folks, I did it. Finally.
First off let me introduce myself. My name is Joe I live here in Houston, Tx. (Not a native). I just bought my first GN about a month ago.
The GN had a bad Powermaster. The PM worked but cycled every time you touched the brake. By the way Kirban gace me 100 store credit for it.
I searched this site for all the brake related items HB, PM, Vac., & Manual.
I called Wilwood and they suggested manual of course.
The second time I called Wilwood they recommended me to Frank of GP Superstore. Frank was great. He did all the math for me and found out what parts I needed, and had no expectations in return. Good thing because, I'm married.
I also found on this site a great adapter for sale. This saved me alot of time and headache. When the adapter arrived it came in a MC box. I thought Crud! He sent me the wrong part. I was wrong. It was a perfect cnc'd billet aluminum with stainless hardware installed and counter sunk. OK I work in aviation and this is the stuff you see on airplanes that costs big bucks. This is the coolest peice on my car. I opted not to buy the MC he offered. It just didn't have the bore 7/8" that I needed.
So, when I got back from my trip I got to work. The adapter fit perfect to the firewall the MC fit perfect to the adapter. I used a tube bender to swap the location of the brake lines. The MC even came with the adapters and all the fitting to complete the install.
The only fabrication was to the push rod. I had to cut the rod that comes installed in the 7/8" bore MC. I had to cut the rod that came from the PM. I used a die the same thred as the MC pushrod to die the PM shortened rod. I then used a coupler and a locking nut, from your hardware store, to create an adjustable rod.
Now, I also drilled and tapped a hole in the brake pedel and installed a bolt. This gave me a 6:1 ratio instead of the 5:1 the powermaster used. HOWEVER, I did this for nothing because, I had too much pedel travel. So I ended up using the origional PM mounting point.
Well, with the adapter, new master cylinder, and a couple of parts from the hardware store. I'm all done.
Wow! I could not be happier. This modification worked great! The brake has a terriffic feel, not artifficial. The pedel is not too hard like I feared. My 105lb. wife drove the car and had absolutly no problem. Pedel travel is great. A perfect ballance of travel, feel, and pressure.
As a side note, I don't have plans of holding 22#'s of boost on the line with my foot. I don't care. Alot of people have Manual brakes on their race cars. I just wanted to share my experience for those people, with street cars, that want less headache with the PM and vac., less plumbing with the HB. Plus if your engine blows up at 125 you brakes don't give a S#!t.
I believe this set up will be great for my street driven car.
Parts: Willwood 260-9439 from GP Superstore $210 shipped.
G-body adapter from Drag Race Brakes $125 shipped.
Hardware$005
Subtotal $340
Subtract$100 credit for PM
Total$240
Of course bleeding the brake was not easy. But there are posts in this fourm for that.
I hope this information helps someone. I know I have benefited from all of your help.
By the way I have no pics my camera broke while we were on vacation. Brakes had the priority.
Joe
First off let me introduce myself. My name is Joe I live here in Houston, Tx. (Not a native). I just bought my first GN about a month ago.
The GN had a bad Powermaster. The PM worked but cycled every time you touched the brake. By the way Kirban gace me 100 store credit for it.
I searched this site for all the brake related items HB, PM, Vac., & Manual.
I called Wilwood and they suggested manual of course.
The second time I called Wilwood they recommended me to Frank of GP Superstore. Frank was great. He did all the math for me and found out what parts I needed, and had no expectations in return. Good thing because, I'm married.
I also found on this site a great adapter for sale. This saved me alot of time and headache. When the adapter arrived it came in a MC box. I thought Crud! He sent me the wrong part. I was wrong. It was a perfect cnc'd billet aluminum with stainless hardware installed and counter sunk. OK I work in aviation and this is the stuff you see on airplanes that costs big bucks. This is the coolest peice on my car. I opted not to buy the MC he offered. It just didn't have the bore 7/8" that I needed.
So, when I got back from my trip I got to work. The adapter fit perfect to the firewall the MC fit perfect to the adapter. I used a tube bender to swap the location of the brake lines. The MC even came with the adapters and all the fitting to complete the install.
The only fabrication was to the push rod. I had to cut the rod that comes installed in the 7/8" bore MC. I had to cut the rod that came from the PM. I used a die the same thred as the MC pushrod to die the PM shortened rod. I then used a coupler and a locking nut, from your hardware store, to create an adjustable rod.
Now, I also drilled and tapped a hole in the brake pedel and installed a bolt. This gave me a 6:1 ratio instead of the 5:1 the powermaster used. HOWEVER, I did this for nothing because, I had too much pedel travel. So I ended up using the origional PM mounting point.
Well, with the adapter, new master cylinder, and a couple of parts from the hardware store. I'm all done.
Wow! I could not be happier. This modification worked great! The brake has a terriffic feel, not artifficial. The pedel is not too hard like I feared. My 105lb. wife drove the car and had absolutly no problem. Pedel travel is great. A perfect ballance of travel, feel, and pressure.
As a side note, I don't have plans of holding 22#'s of boost on the line with my foot. I don't care. Alot of people have Manual brakes on their race cars. I just wanted to share my experience for those people, with street cars, that want less headache with the PM and vac., less plumbing with the HB. Plus if your engine blows up at 125 you brakes don't give a S#!t.
I believe this set up will be great for my street driven car.
Parts: Willwood 260-9439 from GP Superstore $210 shipped.
G-body adapter from Drag Race Brakes $125 shipped.
Hardware$005
Subtotal $340
Subtract$100 credit for PM
Total$240
Of course bleeding the brake was not easy. But there are posts in this fourm for that.
I hope this information helps someone. I know I have benefited from all of your help.
By the way I have no pics my camera broke while we were on vacation. Brakes had the priority.
Joe