Manual brakes

[Scott Atk]

A kit isn't really required. It's easy. You have two choices. If you want to use an aftermarket MC (ie. Wilwood) then you need the firewall adapter. If you want to use a GM manual MC (ie. S10)then you can use the adapter that came on turbobuicks with a powermaster. Either way use a vacuum pedal on the upper hole.

 

[TurboJunky]

Got it.

I stopped at a junkyard today and found an old Grand Prix with 70,000 miles that I'll use. I'll be picking the parts up tomorrow and all I need now is the TTA vacuum/plenum block. Any links?

Welcome to Poston Enterprises ! ??

 

[Scott Atk]

TTA, I think you might be confusing converting to vacuum vs. converting to manual which is what this thread is about. No need for a different vacuum block when coverting to manual brakes.

 

[TurboJunky]

The 2nd and 3rd posts in this thread directly refer to changing out the Power Master brakes to a standard vacuum system?

Is there a difference between "manual" vs. "vacuum" brakes? Perhaps I'm confused.

 

[95' regal gs]

The 2nd and 3rd posts in this thread directly refer to changing out the Power Master brakes to a standard vacuum system?

Is there a difference between "manual" vs. "vacuum" brakes? Perhaps I'm confused.

Vacuum brakes use a vacuum brake booster to increase braking force/reduce pedal effort while there is no booster with manual brakes. The only force applied to the master cylinder is what your foot applies to the pedal. No power assist, hope that clears things up.

 

[bsdlinux]

Another option is the 68-76 corvette manual master cylinder. This unit came with 4 wheel disks and no booster so plenty of volume. I have this unit on my car and I dont see an adapter. I just purchased a new one not rebuilt for $60.

Accumulator bowl is going out .. crap

What else will I need for the swap??

 

[rtviper]

The best solution for the price is a stock Chrysler Master Cylinder from the early 90's. It is the same as the Willwood unit. The Chrysler unit is the design they used. A part number for the unit is W0133-1623548 google it and compare it to the Willwood. The tech guy at Willwood told me they were the same when I needed one right away. Just make sure its a 1" bore or less If you can get wholesale from someone on this unit it will be well under 100 bucks

 

[bsdlinux]

The best solution for the price is a stock Chrysler Master Cylinder from the early 90's. It is the same as the Willwood unit. The Chrysler unit is the design they used. A part number for the unit is W0133-1623548 google it and compare it to the Willwood. The tech guy at Willwood told me they were the same when I needed one right away. Just make sure its a 1" bore or less If you can get wholesale from someone on this unit it will be well under 100 bucks

Thanks for the info What about a pedal, firewall adapter and prop valve?? BTW: This will be on a daily driver. I've heard the manual brakes can be touchy in a TR

 

[rtviper]

I would message jevans and see what he used. He used the Willwood and its the same unit. My car had the willwood on it and was leaking. I bought the Mopar unit for $64.00 and bolted it on. The unit was exactly the same. You can see in the picture jevan posted the Willwood is the same.

 

[fade]

hello can you tell me where did you get the rear disc from or what type of car can i get the rear disc from so i can do it to my car thank you in advance send me an email or post it i'm at bezaresj@bellsouth.net sorry this post goes to jevans

 

[dentmasters01]

Get rid of the proportioning valve $ 0.00, got to advance and get a manual m/c for a s-10 pick up $34.00, go to the junk yard and get the pushrod and retainer cup out of a early moddel s-10 $10.00, and use the powermaster peddle $0.00. s10 mc's. 83 and 85 models work for sure. For all those that wonder how to keep the rod in place....if you find an unmolested truck, you take the mc out and the rod is held in place with a "cup" under the rubber boot that all comes out with the mc. A little "widening" of the buicks hole on the firewall and the cup fits right in. no way the rod can come out. now about the rod. The peddle end is a dead ringer for the powermaster rod as you can see in the pic. Fits right on the peddle. You just need to cut 2" out of it and weld it back together. perfect fit and your ready to go......err uh I mean stop :biggrin:
pics of the rod and cup:

 

[bmackinnon]

EXCELLENT post!! Thanks!

 

[fade]

dentmasters01 is it safe to take out the proportioning valve i heard it helps with keeping the pressure even from the back brakes to the front i'm not sure if its true but the front uses about 80 % more than the back as far as stoping goes please correct me if i'm wrong because i would like to change my power brake to manual and i want to do it the right way thank you.

 

[dentmasters01]

dentmasters01 is it safe to take out the proportioning valve i heard it helps with keeping the pressure even from the back brakes to the front i'm not sure if its true but the front uses about 80 % more than the back as far as stoping goes please correct me if i'm wrong because i would like to change my power brake to manual and i want to do it the right way thank you.

yes, you actually NEED to take it out as the ratio changes with the different m/c. The front bias is fine with the new m/c. I did, however, forgot to mention that I put in an adjustable prop. valve to control the back bias with a manual valve so you can fine tune the front to back ratio. I bought mine from summit for like 18 bucks and mounted it next to the m/c. When you find an s-10, the m/c will have two short brake lines coming out and then go into a prop. valve. Get both the lines. I used one of them as the "go between" of the new adj. prop. valve and my out going rear line. I also did have to buy like 8 bucks worth of brass fittings to connect the lines to the prop. valve and to connect the lines under the car where the old valve was removed as the incomming and outgoing line fittings were different sizes.
hth.

 

[fade]

okay will do thank you so much for your help dentmasters01

 

[SS_Sean]

I run this setup on my Malibu drag car...scroll down until you see the adapter plate and the master cylinder. Good stuff. Originally made by Steel Concepts. My drag car stops awesome!

TRZ Tubular Control Arms - G-Body

 

[8AV8]

The best solution for the price is a stock Chrysler Master Cylinder from the early 90's. It is the same as the Willwood unit. The Chrysler unit is the design they used. A part number for the unit is W0133-1623548 google it and compare it to the Willwood. The tech guy at Willwood told me they were the same when I needed one right away. Just make sure its a 1" bore or less If you can get wholesale from someone on this unit it will be well under 100 bucks

I'm not having luck with the part number. Any idea what yr/make/model Chrysler? TIA

 

[rtviper]

I pasted the part number into google and it came right up. It fits 84 to 95 plymouth voyager and several other models. It will show you a picture also.
Go to local discount parts stores and you can get it fairly cheap.

 

[8AV8]

The best solution for the price is a stock Chrysler Master Cylinder from the early 90's. It is the same as the Willwood unit. The Chrysler unit is the design they used. A part number for the unit is W0133-1623548 google it and compare it to the Willwood. The tech guy at Willwood told me they were the same when I needed one right away. Just make sure its a 1" bore or less If you can get wholesale from someone on this unit it will be well under 100 bucks

On sale at Advanced....I picked one up yesterday for 33 bucks...with no core charge!!!

 

[d0n_3d]

yes, you actually NEED to take it out as the ratio changes with the different m/c. The front bias is fine with the new m/c. I did, however, forgot to mention that I put in an adjustable prop. valve to control the back bias with a manual valve so you can fine tune the front to back ratio. I bought mine from summit for like 18 bucks and mounted it next to the m/c. When you find an s-10, the m/c will have two short brake lines coming out and then go into a prop. valve. Get both the lines. I used one of them as the "go between" of the new adj. prop. valve and my out going rear line. I also did have to buy like 8 bucks worth of brass fittings to connect the lines to the prop. valve and to connect the lines under the car where the old valve was removed as the incomming and outgoing line fittings were different sizes.
hth.

Wait a second...so with me installing a brand new brass stock replacement prop valve is going to hinder my manual brake system???