motor mount options

PSU 98

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Since installing my Hooker catback I noticed my downpipe is now banging off of anything close. Looked at the H&R Parts motor mounts that everybody recommends, they seem a bit steep at $250. I could pick up a set of stock replacements from Kirban for around $35, but I figure I'll probably need to replace those at some point down the road too. Any other options for a good motor mount for a driver?
 
I got stock replacements from Rockauto.com (same exact ones Kirban sells) for around $4 each. Put them in when I did my front suspension a month or so ago. No complaints, lifted the engine right back to stock height.
 
If you go the stock route, get the DEA brand from RockAuto, they are the correct Left & Right parts.
 
H&R is like comparing apples to oranges. H&R mounts are designed to run just the driver side one with a stock passenger mount and improve quarter times. Yes their more expensive but youll never have to replace them again.
 
If you go the stock route, get the DEA brand from RockAuto, they are the correct Left & Right parts.

Why would you recommend getting them from Rock Auto instead of a supporting vendor???? You said they were the exact same AND cost more than Kirbans. Why would you do that?
 
No, he said they were 4 dollars at rock auto vs the 35 at kirban. I'm %100 for supporting our vendors but if its a %900 markup I would agree.

That being said I would recommend the H&R mounts, those are what I use.
 
HR Mounts are the way to go if you want your motor to stay put.
 
Go ahead and use stock motor mounts and race. Then one day you start to get this "FALSE KNOCK" even when in park, you would have wished that you spent the money on HR mounts.

'87 Turbo T w/E85, 224/224, ported iron heads and intake, 80 lbs injector, TE45A, GEN II, TT and EXTENDER EXTREME G, XP Double pumper and something secret, 86 T-TYPE (Kenne Bell test car) and '11 Tundra Limited Sent from my iPhone using Turbobuick
 
Well that's part of my decision, I don't really plan to "race" the car. I just want to keep the DP from banging all over the place right now. I'm leaning toward just replacing the original mounts with rubber ones, and hope I can get another 50,000 miles out of them.
 
Let me throw this out there and see where it lands. I was told by a supporting board member (vendor) that the HR mounts put to much stress on the block and he did advised againt them, if he was to do my rebuild. No names no flames. Just in concept this does seem to make sense, after rebuilding the motor and seeing it internally. He recommed the stock mounts and the RJC brace, which is what I did. Your thoughts?
 
Let me throw this out there and see where it lands. I was told by a supporting board member (vendor) that the HR mounts put to much stress on the block and he did advised againt them, if he was to do my rebuild. No names no flames. Just in concept this does seem to make sense, after rebuilding the motor and seeing it internally. He recommed the stock mounts and the RJC brace, which is what I did. Your thoughts?

I can only say I tried the RJC brace and it didn't perform to the expectation level promised. I'm only one guy so I speak only for myself.

I now have HR motor, trans, and crossmember mounts.

Couldn't be happier with the results. But I could be wrong, having used both and all......;)

I'm not knocking the RJC part, it just didn't do what I was looking for in my particular application.

Best of luck with your choice.
 
No, he said they were 4 dollars at rock auto vs the 35 at kirban. I'm %100 for supporting our vendors but if its a %900 markup I would agree.

That being said I would recommend the H&R mounts, those are what I use.

Ahh. But..... $4 for a motor mount?????

As for another post indicating that someone thinks the HR mounts are too stressful for the block..... I say BULL!! I've been running them since they first hit the market.
 
I've been running the HR mounts since for probably 10 yrs. I know I never have to endure the hours long suffering of changing a worn out stock mount while the engine is in the car. To me that alone is worth it. And I don't have to worry about snapping a stocker off or run a strap from the alternator to hold the engine down.
 
I've been running the HR mounts since for probably 10 yrs. I know I never have to endure the hours long suffering of changing a worn out stock mount while the engine is in the car. To me that alone is worth it. And I don't have to worry about snapping a stocker off or run a strap from the alternator to hold the engine down.

Yup, to all those.

If guys only realized how much the engine actually moves around in the engine bay when it's being stressed with rubber mounts!! One only needs to open the hood so they can see under it into the engine bay from the driver's seat, then, while idling, do some shifting of gears, forward, reverse, park, etc. and watch all the moves. Then do some brake torques and really be amazed at the movement!
 
I broke a stocker racing, 39* KR just off the line, somehow the car didn't go as fast as the previous pass. :p

HR drivers side, their original 10 year old stiffer rubber, and still have the 200K mile stock passenger side which looks okay.

I think now you can get them with two choices of rubber, they work well and hold up one is all you should need.

Daily driver cars here, both of them have HR mounts on the drivers side.
 
I put both sides of HR mounts on. Love them!
My only problem is now that my ATR DP hits the heater box AND the frame. It's almost wedged in there
 
I put both sides of HR mounts on. Love them!
My only problem is now that my ATR DP hits the heater box AND the frame. It's almost wedged in there

Never heard of an ATR DP hitting the heater box. I do know that they hit the frame unless you have HR Mounts....
 
Why does the left side mount fail more often?

Because the engine twists from left to right or "clockwise" and pulls up on that mount with a tremendous amount of force when it builds torque. It just sort of squishes the right side.
 
Never heard of an ATR DP hitting the heater box. I do know that they hit the frame unless you have HR Mounts....

It's very strange. It's almost like it needs to bend in toward the motor more for more clearance. It never ends with these cars, lol
 
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