need to shave .4 off to hit 10's Tips needed

[bogie1]

Ok, I thought I was done. I hit the 11's with this run in the 1/8 last Sunday.

1.581 60'
7.343 ET
93.86 MPH

It was the first real time to the track with the new Turbo (CPT65 BB), since I fixed my FP problem. I ran 28# boost on that run.

Look at my combo and see if you can help me make changes that will get me a 6.99 1/8 mile time.

I know with more tunning I can knock off another .1 at least.
My GN is full weight and with me goes 3720 or more down the track.
I thought the fever would be quelled when I made an 11 sec pass but I was wrong.
Ideas?
BTW I was just out looking under the hood and noticed that I broke off the Eye bolt that my torque strap hooks on that last run. I guess I was luckey because it didn't get tangled in the belt on it's way down to the frame. Geese, dodged another bullet! I think I am on my 9th live.

 

[Boston GN]

Heads to help push all that air from that turbo through

 

[turbosam6]

First off, 6.99 does not automatically equal 10.99, in fact my Z28 runs slower than that in the 1/8 but faster in the 1/4. My old motor in my GN ran 7.50 in the 1/8 but 11.60 in the 1/4, should have been a 11.9x. The second half of the 1/4 mile is much harder on the car than the first 1/2, so while your tune may be fine for the 1/8 mile, it may not like the 1/4.

I would remove some weight, its easier on the motor and driveline and often free. Ported heads would be good also, as mentioned above. As long as the fuel system can keep up (50 lb. injectors are too small) heads alone would enable the car to have the potential to run 10's. Tune, tune, tune.......

 

[azgn]

how much timing are you running with that alky? Maybe try some race gas and more timing..........

as Turbosam said, just because you run a 1/8 that looks like a certain et in the 1/4, doesn't make it so......I doubt you could support 28 lbs of boost thru the 1/4 on alky without pulling a lot of timing (and power....)


are you using "real" slicks or DOT tires? gains in the 60' times are worth about 1.5x in the 1/4.....(ie .1 in the 60' = 1.5-2 tenths in the 1/4)

there is prolly noyhing "cheap" you can do at this point to gain power (other than the above)..... heads would be the next logical step

 

[bogie1]

Since I don't have a 1/4 mile track anywhere near me I should have said I would like to run a 6.99. My car felt like it pulled harder after 3rd gear then 1st or 2nd but you are right I might not be able to sustain that tune throught the whole 1/4 mile.
It sounds like P+P heads are the next step. I guess I will play with tune and see what I can get with that for now. I have owned this car since new and I am curious how many miles the stock gaskets will handle before I go to new heads,

Here is my timing on my last run:

I have an extender chip for alky that is 23/21.
I have it set for 2 additional * low gear and also added in 4* total timing with the Trans +.
I then have it set to take out 3.3 * @ 4400 , 6.6 * @ 5400.
so I guess 29/ 23 up to 4400 rpm then 27.7/21.7 up to 5400. I still have the original valve springs so I doubt I am going any higher than 5400.
On my last run(my best run) I had 0* KR with these settings.
I am spraying Razor's PAC Alky.

I am running MT ET Drag radials.

 

[BUICKTR]

bogie1

Try to reduce some weight!!!

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Install new valvesprings with around 100# on the seat. Your stockers have to be give out. When I bought my car it only had 10,000 easy miles on it and the stock springs were around 70#. You need more spring pressure for the boost you need to run.

Set the timing at no more than 25/23. 23/21 may be enough and is what I would try first.

Put some C16 or other high octane fuel in the tank

Run AC42ts or Autolite 23's gapped at around .25-.28. IF you have a weak spot in the ignition you will find it.

Tune the fuel, alky and the boost until the tune is right and your around 32-34 psi boost. This sounds like a lot but since you still have stock heads it will take this much. P&P heads will make the motor more efficient and you can run less boost but in the end your still placing the same stress on the rest of the motor. These cars can run 6's on stock heads you just have to tune the fuel and keep working the boost up.

Hopefully by making more power your 60 foot times will drop into the low 1.51-1.53 range. If not you need to focus on what your suspension needs to get it there.

 

[V6POWER]

Nice ET and 60', Rich. Are the tires the 275/60-15? How much air pressure and how many pounds boost launch? Are you using foot brake or transbrake? Thanks.

 

[bogie1]

Jim,
Yes I was using the 275X60X15 MT ET street DR's. They looked almost shot after less than 800 miles but I gave them a humungus burnout and they rewarded me with a real nice 60' ft. And I backed it up with another run right after that. I never heated them like that before and now I know what it takes to get a good 60' with those tires. I foot braked to about 8# of boost and let her fly. I had them inflated to 20# pressure and my front tires were at 38#.
It sure felt good to launch like that and ET so good. You know I have been fighting a FP problem for a year now. I changed everything I could to avoid dropping the gas tank. When I finaly dropped the tank I found a hose clamp had come off of the feed to the FP. All Fixed now. I can run 7.3X all day now on the street and on the track with 28# boost with Razor's PAC Alky and no NR. That was with a spare tire, jack and a full tank of gas too.

 

[bogie1]

Dusty,
I know you are right about the valve springs they got to be weak by now. Also I will try to up the boost little by little until I reach critical mass. (keeping the timing down)
And thanks guys for the weight reduction advise. I really should shed the ATR dual 3" Exhaust, go for the single shot, and get some light wheels for starters. Then start getting serious with the rest of my weight problem.
Thanks

 

[8UWITH6]

Originally posted by turbosam6
As long as the fuel system can keep up (50 lb. injectors are too small) heads alone would enable the car to have the potential to run 10's. Tune, tune, tune.......

Horse Hockey, check my sig

You dont need heads, just keep tuning buddy.........and leave HARD. Good luck!

 

[turbosam6]

Originally posted by 8UWITH6
Horse Hockey, check my sig

You dont need heads, just keep tuning buddy.........and leave HARD. Good luck!

I ran similar mph on 50's, but what was your injector DC? Mine was like 95% if I remember correctly, not good. You want to be around 80% I think. Why skimp on the one thing keeping your motor from blowing up? It doesn't hurt anything to go bigger.

FWIW, I have 75# injectors now, and I think they are just right for a high 10 second car.

 

[V6POWER]

Thanks Rich. Looks like you finally have everything coming together, now that the fp problem is fixed. We will need to meet at Piedmont sometime.

 

[robh]

How come your MPH looks a little low for the 1/8? Usually a 20 mph difference between the 1/8 and 1/4. I run about 23 mph gain.
If your 93 + 20= 113 you need to find another 7 mph to be considered a 10 second car or 6.99 or better.

A little more info on your mods would help for suggestions.

Oops..just read your full signiture. Do you have a wide band?

 

[bogie1]

robh,
Yes I agree my MHP looked low for the ET. Not quite 94 MPH. It was the first time out with this combo and I only made one tuning change. I am tuning with a scanmaster and you know how that goes. I think I will be able to MPH much better after a few more attemps at tunning at the track.

 

[DonnieShort]

Originally posted by bogie1

Here is my timing on my last run:

I have an extender chip for alky that is 23/21.
I have it set for 2 additional * low gear and also added in 4* total timing with the Trans +.
I then have it set to take out 3.3 * @ 4400 , 6.6 * @ 5400.
so I guess 29/ 23 up to 4400 rpm then 27.7/21.7 up to 5400. I still have the original valve springs so I doubt I am going any higher than 5400.
On my last run(my best run) I had 0* KR with these settings.
I am spraying Razor's PAC Alky.

I am running MT ET Drag radials.

The timing set set up with the T+ could be hurting you. You have to remember that anything you add in or take out effects the whole RPM range. Using your numbers, here's an example:

Chip timing- 23º low gear/ 21º high gear
You add 2º to the base time now makes you chip 25º/23º
You add in the 4º with the wot knob that now makes your timing 29º/27º
Then you take out 3.3º which reduces is it to 25.7º/ 23.7 and then you take out 6.6º which reduces it further to 19.1º/17.1º

So by that, your running a soft timing street chip instead of a race timing chip. You might want to stay away from the x.xº at xxxx rpm settings on the T+. I belive those settings were intended for our supercharged or N02 fed LT1/LS1 brethern, not really for us. Stick with the 2º-14º portions of the dial, you may like your results.

Here's my timing set up with my T+. Base chip timing is 23º/21º. I add in 4º with the wot knob and my timing goes to 27º/25º at wot. Try it and I bet you like the results, you won't be in the 10's but it may get you a little closer. BTW, I ran 7.20 @ 95mph in the 1/8th in the set up in my sig, 3750+lbs with me in it, 25psi boost on BFG DR's through the mufflers with a 93/115 mix ( which averaged out to @ 106 octane ) with before stated timing set up. HTH

 

[bogie1]

Donnie,
Great stuff man. I cant wait to give it a shot.
I pulled a lot of timing for safety sake in the higher RPMs, but If I add in less starting from say 2* WOT with nothing taking out in the higher RPMS It would be a good starting point for comparison.
Then keep adding in slowly until I just see KR then back off a tad.
Thanks!

 

[8UWITH6]

Originally posted by turbosam6
I ran similar mph on 50's, but what was your injector DC? Mine was like 95% if I remember correctly, not good. You want to be around 80% I think. Why skimp on the one thing keeping your motor from blowing up? It doesn't hurt anything to go bigger.

FWIW, I have 75# injectors now, and I think they are just right for a high 10 second car.

I dont dissagree with you. I dont know what my injector DC is, I tune with a Scanmaster and EGT. EGT is at a safe temp for me so Im comfortable. It wouldnt hurt to go bigger, but for now Im happy with where my combo is at. FYI, I run Turbo Tweak Chips, Eric is the man......really woke my car up.

 

[bogie1]

Good light wheels= 60# savings
Backseat out = 25# savings (married 22Yrs-haven't used it latley)
Light weight battery= 15# savings
Spare and jack + acc= 52# savings
1/4 tank vs full tank + 100# savings



2# additional boost = 1.5 better off ET

weight saving= 252# or 2.5 tenths off ET

tuning=.1 off ET

7.34 ET - .41 = 6.93 ET on paper.

Looks like maybe get thrown off the track with a 6.99 with the above. I will just have to try it and see.

Thanks Brotherhood
(BTM -Buick Turbo Mafia) for the tips.
I will sure give feedback as usual.

 

[turbosam6]

Those tenths you are shaving would be more realistic in the 1/4. For example, 100 lbs. is worth .10 in the 1/4, not the 1/8.