New timing cover

[DannyJov]

I'm pretty new to turbo buicks and especially picking up wrenches but I dug myself into a hole already. I bought my 84 GN a year back and the motor and trans were a mess so I got both rebuilt..the trans was done by well know mechanic in my area and my engine was rebuilt by some moron that took 9 months for the entire build up.. Not only is that quite some time(which doesn't bother me too much) but if it takes that long it better be done right.
Anyways my car was running great last weekend until I tried dropping the oil pan to replace my gasket. I haven't gotten to it because I noticed a huge antifreeze leaks coming from my timing cover. I got in there and saw that its crack!!!! Yes it is sure cracked!! So basically I dig my way down to the cover and Im at the the bolt holding it in.. I can't break it loose with anything!
Now this is when I start to realize I dug myself into a deep hole...very deep.
Can anyone toss some advice over my way or maybe proper instructions on how to replace this the proper way(I can turn a wrench pretty much) I want to do this one time and never want to think about it again. Any help or input is greatly appreciated

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[bogies87]

That is your crank bolt. It should be torqued to 220ft. Lbs. A 3/4 6 point socket and a air impact wrench works best. Its hard to keep the engine from spinning without it.


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[gnbeginer]

when you do get the old cover off - contact earl brown here on the board and get a new cover/oil pump from him. he does great work, very knowledgable and a good guy. and you wont have to worry bout it again.

 

[earlbrown]

Funny you should mention that. I JUST finished building a timing cover less than 5 minutes ago!

Once you get the crank nut loose the hub will slide off. It's not a press fit. If you don't have a badass impact to get that nut loose, there's another trick that works well. Clamp a set of vise grips on the flexplate on the drivers side (make sure you don't booger up the gear teeth). Eat a bowl of wheeties and hang a ratchet on the nut, get a good toehold and pull like you're trying to loosen a bolt that's very very tight!

There's a small 'hidden' bolt just above the oil pump. (normally I'd say 'make sure to remove it or you'll crack the cover'. Unfortunately for you, that's not an issue anymore ) Once you get all the bolts out for the cover it will slide off the pins if the pan bolts are out that engage the cover from below.

When you get it off you'll be able to see the timing chain, tentioner (if its there) and make sure the oil slinger got reinstalled. Also, while you're there make sure the oil galley plugs are in and staked in place. If one of those pops out it's bye bye oil pressure. Take the oil pump apart when you get the cover off and see if there's any signs of 'oh shit' that might lead to other things to inspect.

There's some other stuff to look out but it can wait until you see what's going on under the cover.

When you get that apart, snap a couple more picturers and we'll try and get you back on the road.

 

[earlbrown]

when you do get the old cover off - contact earl brown here on the board and get a new cover/oil pump from him. he does great work, very knowledgable and a good guy. and you wont have to worry bout it again.

LOL. We were typing at the same time... Jinx! You owe me a beer!

 

[gnbeginer]

lol - ok

 

[87GNSteve]

That is your crank bolt. It should be torqued to 220ft. Lbs. A 3/4 6 point socket and a air impact wrench works best. Its hard to keep the engine from spinning without it.

Correction that crank bolt is a lot larger than 3/4. I use a 1 1/8 in and it works.

 

[DannyJov]

Thanks for the help guys I need all that I can get. And I am using a 1-1/8 and it fits but still can't seem to break it loose. Also what does a tensioner look like and all the other parts previously mentioned...like I said I'm still very new to this..basically only know how to turn a wrench and unfortunatly I already ran over to a wrecked buick ttype in my area and picked up a replacement timing cover so I wouldn't be needing the one from earl. But what are all of the steps or proper procedures to follow after I take off the cover. I've been told alot of things by many on here and I have also been told by others that what I was told is not correct so I'm not sure what to believe. I was told I need to put Vaseline in the oil pump..? I was told to prime my motor before cranking or else my cam and rockers will be wiped...? I was told to I need to prime my oil pump(no clue how)..? I was told I couldn't use a timing light to set my timing chain..? I was told many things and I want this to be the one and only time I have to crack this GN open. Also I'm not familiar with terms such as harmonic belt, tensioner..etc so clearify that for me if so. Thanks guys I appreciate all the feedback


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[bogies87]

I was stating to use a 3/4 drive socket.... sorry for the confusion..

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[DannyJov]

It still won't come off...any suggestions?


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[earlbrown]

Thanks for the help guys I need all that I can get. And I am using a 1-1/8 and it fits but still can't seem to break it loose. Also what does a tensioner look like and all the other parts previously mentioned...like I said I'm still very new to this..basically only know how to turn a wrench and unfortunatly I already ran over to a wrecked buick ttype in my area and picked up a replacement timing cover so I wouldn't be needing the one from earl. But what are all of the steps or proper procedures to follow after I take off the cover. I've been told alot of things by many on here and I have also been told by others that what I was told is not correct so I'm not sure what to believe. I was told I need to put Vaseline in the oil pump..? I was told to prime my motor before cranking or else my cam and rockers will be wiped...? I was told to I need to prime my oil pump(no clue how)..? I was told I couldn't use a timing light to set my timing chain..? I was told many things and I want this to be the one and only time I have to crack this GN open. Also I'm not familiar with terms such as harmonic belt, tensioner..etc so clearify that for me if so. Thanks guys I appreciate all the feedback

You can't see the tentioner (if it's there) until after you get the cover off. You need to take the replacement cover off and inspect it like now. There's a good chance it's scrap metal. As far as the priming, Vaseline is normally used when building so the pump will prime itself. I think some people still do it that way. There's a link on the interwebs that shows the inside of an oil pump and how to inspect it. I don't have it bookmarked but I'm sure someone will come along an link to it.

No, you can't use a timing light on a chain. You're thinking of ignition timing with a distributor. There's no such thing as a harmonic belt. You're thinking of the harmonic balancer.... that's the thing you're trying to remove with the big bolt. Tentioner is a spring loaded device that's pushing on the timing chain,

It still won't come off...any suggestions?

Did you use vise grips and a cheater bar? If you have room and a buddy it might help to load the pull handle and have a friend pop the extension with a hammer. The shock might be all you need to finish it off.

 

[DannyJov]

Yup I used a cheater bar and vice grips. And what am I looking for in this new cover I have.. Why do u think its scrap metal?

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[earlbrown]

Actually I meant to open it up and look at the condition to see if it's scrap metal. With a used cover you never know if any (or how much) debris has went through the pump and scored it up.

....the one you pictured doesn't even need to be opened up to know it's sub standard. The above pictured unit is a chinese copy of a GM cover. Personally I would run a genuine GM cover that I found at the bottom of a lake before I would even consider running a brand new chinese unit.

 

[Jay J]

Actually I meant to open it up and look at the condition to see if it's scrap metal. With a used cover you never know if any (or how much) debris has went through the pump and scored it up.

....the one you pictured doesn't even need to be opened up to know it's sub standard. The above pictured unit is a chinese copy of a GM cover. Personally I would run a genuine GM cover that I found at the bottom of a lake before I would even consider running a brand new chinese unit.

Earl is right about this one (don'task me how I know.) That piece of aluminum will supply the lifeblood to your engine. Get the real deal....


Jay J

 

[earlbrown]

^it can also supply death shards of metal to the engine too! That's one area where it's not worth it to cheap out. A failed pump takes out the engine, the turbo and any coolers plumbed in. That's a bunch of damage when it happens.

 

[GNONYX]

I used a cordless 3/4" impact driver (DW059) and bought a 1/1-8" impact deep socket from Advance Auto.
Now putting back that nut is another story, where as I rented the 3/4" torque wrench from Advance Auto, place a vise grips on the flexplate on the drivers side as earlbrown indicated and torque down to 220ft. Lbs

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in the oil pan, then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge.

 

[Jay J]

My piece of "Chinese Junk" had a casting flaw right behind where the cam sensor mounts---quite the oil leak, it was...

Jay J

 

[DannyJov]

It's original my buddy on this form got it for me locally.. I trust him he has helped me with many things. I think that is the last of my worries at the moment but I could be seriously wrong... Lets hope not. But I need that god forsaken harmonic bolt off..


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[earlbrown]

That cover is absolutely 100% NOT original. You can tell by the lack of a GM casting number above the crank hole, and the incorrect front mounted oil seal.

If you do decide to use that unit, DON'T do my oiling flow mods to that cover. Many people have reported blowing out the side while drilling the feed hole out to 1/2" to match the block.

 

[ek02]

When removing harmonic balancer bolts, here is how I have done it many times, especially on a car where an impact wrench will not fit between the balancer and the radiator. (Not the case with a GN). Hook up a starter button to the starter solenoid so you can crank the engine from the engine compartment. Remove the drive belt pully. Put a 6 point 1 1/8" socket on the bolt with a long breaker bar and, if needed, a piece of pipe. Lay the breaker bar or pipe on the drivers side of the frame, or even the garage floor. Tap the starter button. Viewing from the front, the crank turns clockwise, and the bolt counter clockwise. It will come loose. Just make sure that the socket is firmly on the bolt, and the breaker bar is on a surface where it will not slip off. Vise grips on the flywheel will let you tighten it back up.