New timing cover
- Thread starter DannyJov
- Start date
We actually were talking about the problems first. He's well aware of the issues as he's had to eat many of them over the years. He had to have a go/no-go gauge built (and pay someone to use them) to inspect the things to see if the dist/cam sensor would drop down and engage the pump shaft. He advised me that the quality control is so poor on those things (which we already know) that its to the point they will inspect them before taking possession and he's sent entire crates back to China without buying them.
That's why he's interested in what I'm thinking about reproducing. The original meeting was to talk about cost effective Buick V6 torque plates and the forged pistons that I'm making.
I think I can overcome a simple drive, if I can cast and machine a cover. Personally I'm happy with the stock setup They work just fine if you know what you're doing.
That's why he's interested in what I'm thinking about reproducing. The original meeting was to talk about cost effective Buick V6 torque plates and the forged pistons that I'm making.
I think I can overcome a simple drive, if I can cast and machine a cover. Personally I'm happy with the stock setup They work just fine if you know what you're doing.
That's what he is supposed to do. send the rejects back . You.don't know how many bad ones gm had to reject . Unless you know who did there inspections for quality control.
So you make pistons and torque plates to. That's kewl more parts to keep the pos's alive
I need a set of .030 overs for a iron headed bullet I'm building . how much ? Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
H
Heisenberg
Guest
All I know is that my oil pressure has gone up after only reading this entire thread.
H
Heisenberg
Guest
So you mean to tell me that "close enough" doesn't quite get it then?
And there can be possible repercussions?
Attachments
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
I guess he was simply asking what you do to them, why don't you ask him?
It helps him and others know that the silverseal covers will work just fine while you and others were saying they wouldn't!!
Again why not ask him yourself?
Us schmucks are not worrying about you at all, we will be actually helping the OP ( Danny) as soon as he calls one of us back rather than push a $400+ front cover since he already stated he didn't have much money..We will be doing his front cover for "Nothing" lets see you do this to help him out!
Shipped out over $6k in suspension orders today!
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Thanks for all the help guys! I just finished replacing the oil pan gasket and the timing cover, water pump and gaskets to go with it! Appreciate all you guys that offered me assistance. I should be on the road in no time...yet again Michigan weather probably won't agree with that
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
guys im stuck...obviously....again. How in the world do I time my cam. with the distributor. are these the correct steps?!
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/camsensor.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/camsensor.html
yes that is the correct way.
If you have any questions give me a call ! i'll pm you my number again
H
Heisenberg
Guest
Or this - for 23 bucks - makes all your trouble seem so far away.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=653
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=653
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
I believe when you removed the timing cover you might of have not mark the cam sensor plug location angle pointed around 4:00pm, or didn't set the cylinder #1 to compression stroke.
It is important that the crank is on Top Dead Center and then 25 degrees past TDC. Remember that the cam turns at half the speed of the crankshaft and merely turning the crank until the point lines up with the pointer only assures you a 50% chance of being correctly on the 25 deg TDC mark. TDC is found when the notch on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer on the cover and both valves on cylinder # 1 are closed (Number 1 plug is the front plug on the drivers side). In order to not have to pull the valve cover, remove the spark plug and start turning the crank clockwise until I feel a puff of air come out the plug hole. This will be the compression stroke and I then continue turning the crank until I reach the 25 ATDC point. If you don't get this right, you will not like the way it runs as it will be spraying fuel 180 degs out of phase.
The photo shows the original factory TDC marking to the new TDC marking, and I also painted it white with clear coat over the painted marks.
Read both of these site and it will explain more of what I'm talking about.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/help-setting-cam-sensor.323710/
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
It is important that the crank is on Top Dead Center and then 25 degrees past TDC. Remember that the cam turns at half the speed of the crankshaft and merely turning the crank until the point lines up with the pointer only assures you a 50% chance of being correctly on the 25 deg TDC mark. TDC is found when the notch on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer on the cover and both valves on cylinder # 1 are closed (Number 1 plug is the front plug on the drivers side). In order to not have to pull the valve cover, remove the spark plug and start turning the crank clockwise until I feel a puff of air come out the plug hole. This will be the compression stroke and I then continue turning the crank until I reach the 25 ATDC point. If you don't get this right, you will not like the way it runs as it will be spraying fuel 180 degs out of phase.
The photo shows the original factory TDC marking to the new TDC marking, and I also painted it white with clear coat over the painted marks.
Read both of these site and it will explain more of what I'm talking about.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/help-setting-cam-sensor.323710/
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
Attachments
I believe when you removed the timing cover you might of have not mark the cam sensor plug location angle pointed around 4
It is important that the crank is on Top Dead Center and then 25 degrees past TDC. Remember that the cam turns at half the speed of the crankshaft and merely turning the crank until the point lines up with the pointer only assures you a 50% chance of being correctly on the 25 deg TDC mark. TDC is found when the notch on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer on the cover and both valves on cylinder # 1 are closed (Number 1 plug is the front plug on the drivers side). In order to not have to pull the valve cover, remove the spark plug and start turning the crank clockwise until I feel a puff of air come out the plug hole. This will be the compression stroke and I then continue turning the crank until I reach the 25 ATDC point. If you don't get this right, you will not like the way it runs as it will be spraying fuel 180 degs out of phase.
The photo shows the original factory TDC marking to the new TDC marking, and I also painted it white with clear coat over the painted marks.
Read both of these site and it will explain more of what I'm talking about.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/help-setting-cam-sensor.323710/
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
Thanks for posting it. He is gonna call me this evening and I was gonna walk him thru it over the phone. Cause I was too lazy to type all that out ....
Sent from my HTC6500LVW using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
