OIL Type? Oil filter ?

Little6pack

Active Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2002
OK another newbie questions.

I have a bunch of oil left over from GTO ownership.

Now that I have the GN would
CASTROL REGULAR 10-40w be ok to use on the GN??

Also what would be a good filter? Wix, AC, Fram?
Do they make a larger capacity filter? ANY Part numbers?

Thanks
LOVE MY New GN :D

:confused:
 
do the GN a favor and run Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic and use a AC Delco PF52 filter...
 
My oil of choice is Amsoil 10w-30. I use that along with the Amsoil Superduty oil filter. If you would like, see my signature & punch in my Amsoil dealership website. Their, you can see what is available. I also use Amsoil in the rear diff.
 
Welcome to "TR-World"! :)

Mobil 0-30 is in every piece of machinery we have...since 1997.

We like the Mobil 1, Purolator, & Baldwin oil filters.

You might want to consider the "Biggie" oil filter adaptor from RJC that allows the use of much larger filters than the stock size.

HTH! :)
 
AC PF52.
IMO, don't waste money on synthetic if you already have miles. You'd be pissin in the wind.
 
I just changed the oil in my 87 and went with the amsoil 10-30 and also used their oil filter.I think as far as oil goes all synthetics are fairly equal,if you have a higher mileage car or one that hasnt been taken care of and you switch from petroleum based to a synthetic you may start to develop leaks.For a filter just make sure you use a high quality one.Check out that dudes amsiol site and I think you will be impressed.Their product is widely used in the aviation industry.Aviators normally run with the best.
 
Well my GN has 19k original miles. I am not sure what oil has been put in it.
I can tell that the last change Valvoline was used because of the sticker on the window.
I am afraid to use Syn oil as I had a TURBO Volvo that developed leaks after 85k using Syn oil all its life..
When I switched back to regular oil she stopped leaking & went to 160k..
Guess I will be using a 10/30 with AC-pf52

Any reason for 10/30 & not 10/40?


Thanks guys..
 
Any oil that is rated for turbo use is OK. Truckers who's living depends on their rigs performance use Rotilla (SP) from shell.
Synthetic is a very good oil but I have never seen on this board where a turbo has failed due to using regular oil. I have never seen a post saying that the dreded COAKING has been found in a turbo.
You can use the synthetic's if you like and I am sure they are a wonderful product, but at 4.00+ per quart I am not sure it is worth it.
A over the road diesel runs hotter than your GN, they don't use synthetic, I am sure they would if they thought it would protect their 300,000.00 investment.
 
Have used Mobil 1 15w-50 in my 87 and my 85 since day one, and never has a bit of trouble. However change it religiously every 3000 miles and conventional would be fine. Just stay away from 10-40, it becomes unstable when hot. GM, Ford and Honda (and probably others) will specify anything BUT 10-40 in the new cars. As far as filters, I use WIX#51036 (long filter).......
 
I can only say what has worked for me. I run Castrol GTX with 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 when the weather gets cold. I'm over 200k and the turbo has been on there since I bought the car at about 106k. That motor has never asked me for work on any part with a relation to the oil. Water pump, coils and module, crank sensor, MAF,............ But never any internal part. I do think it may be time for valve springs and a timing set. Oh, and maybe that rear main seal and .........
 
Those of you with the RJC "Biggie" oil filter adapter (13/16-16 thread intead of OEM metric), consider using either the Baldwin B9 or Purolator L30005 oil filters.

They are are about 25% longer than the PF24 that is normally recommended for the Biggie adapter, and they will fit properly in the 86-87 TR (same gasket, same shell diameter, just longer).

Thus, the B9/ L30005 should have lower differential pressure drop for a given oil flow, and be less likely to open the bypass in the filter mounting base. Also, less likely to internally collapse the
filter.

Between the 2 filters, I prefer the Baldwin because its metal shell is thicker and noticeably heavier.

Baldwin rates the B9 at 100 psi continuous operating pressure and 200 psi typical burst pressure. I don't have the rated differential pressure or oil volume flow, however.
 
Dave's86GN,

By no means am I a big rig truck expert, but don't they operate under much different conditions than a gas engined passenger vehicle?

I mean, diesels in general run at much lower RPMs than gas, and aren't their bearing tolerances generally looser too ??

Where I buy my oil filters, there are a lot of truckers buying bulk oil, usually in 15-40 and 15-50 viscosities. That probably wouldn't be appropriate in a gas engined car unless it was very high mileage.

As another general comment, I have been using Mobil-1 (5W-30 or 10W-30) in my 1994, 135K miles Chevy K-Blazer (350 V8 SBC) since I bought it (OK, a few times I've used regular oil ;) )

Absolutely no problems with seals or oil leakage -- not even a drop.
 
This day and age-- price should not determine if you use syn or petro. Figure filling up your gas tank at 169.9 a gallon for Amaco ultimate 93 octane. Driving for just over 1 week before filling up again. Paying $4.00 a quart for mobil 1,or pennz with syntech and leaving in the car for 9 or more gas fill ups. It really seems to be a no brainer. After 5,000 and before 45,000 definatly syn. Changed at 3,000 to 4,000 miles or 3to 4 months.

Regular oil cut miles and months in half.

Engines are expensive don't scimp on stuff just because of price.

I think all on this board would pay for 93 octane and up if it was available for what ever price. No flames intended just my OPINION.
 
B23v6
I don't actually have a problem with using SYN oil in a car.
What I am unsure of is what was used prior in my GN.
As for using regular oil here is an example:
On my regular daily drivers I used regular oil & got 183k out of the OLDS 3.3 v-6 engine. That car is still going today because it was sold local to me & I see it still.. I changed that oil every 2,500 & never skipped. To me that was pretty good.

Now I have a 1996 Olds LS88 with 3800 v-6 engine & I do the same with this engine. every 2.5k change filter & oil. I am only at 66,000k miles so I don't know if I will ever get to 200k?

I guess if I change the GN every 1500 that should do fine.
If I even put that much on it..
 
Sounds good to me. I just think the price argument dos'nt make sense.

The 3.3 in the olds is the b209v6. Glad to see you run good Buicks.
 
for those of you who say don't use synthetic on a higher mileage vehicle...my GN is closing in on 90k everyday driven miles and i have used nothing but synthetic and i haven't seen it leak more than 3 drops a year...that is also driven hard alot and changed every 3000 miles...

my turbo and motor are working perfectly still...
 
I agree with Don. My TR has over 146k on it and I run Amsoil 10w-30. No leaks on my driveway. Amsoil also make a 5w-30, 10w-40 & 20w-50. See my Amsoil website if anyones interested.
 
First of all, I don't buy into the thought that synthetic is that much better than regular oil. I have heard professionals argue not to use it at all because of graphite and deposits (??).

That being said, I would use syntheitc in a 19k mile car, I would not use it in a 150k mile car, given that both cars had regular oil up to this point. Either way, I will still change the oil every 3000 miles or less, period.

Synthetic is more likely to leak given the smaller molecular structure. If I used it, my rear main would dump oil like the Exxon Valdez. :D
 
Whatever filter is used be sure that it has the drain back valve. Delco's of course have it but they are hard to find in the WalMarts and K-Marts now. I read somewhere in one of these posts that Delco stopped sending their filters to stores like that. Available from GM dealers only now. Another filter that has the drainback valve is the Fram PH3980. If you look into the small holes that are around the threaded mounting hole you can actually see the valve. I. Drew
 
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