Either that or a bad master, but since you've got a rock hard pedal with the engine off I doubt that myself. Just in case, how's the steering feel when you run the engine and turn the wheels?
Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion
- Thread starter turbonut85
- Start date
Either that or a bad master, but since you've got a rock hard pedal with the engine off I doubt that myself. Just in case, how's the steering feel when you run the engine and turn the wheels?
It's messy and a pain but take the return line off the reservoir and plug the the reservoir. Run the return line to a bucket, start the engine, and have lots of fluid handy while someone pushes on the brake pedal. I've had problems bleeding the hydro boost systems before myself and I've had to do this.
I emailed Rock Auto about how to file a warranty claim on a bad part but while I wait I am going to change the Master Cylinder out just for "fun" since I bought it locally and can swap it under warranty.
I did a bit of reading about brakes in general and they said if you weren't getting any assistance from the booster that the pedal would be hard. Would this still be the case with hydroboost?
I pressed the brake pedal five times to release any fluid in it and held the brake pedal down just slightly and started the car. I felt it lift off my foot and then push back against it. From what I read online at various sites it was a way to check hydroboost systems for proper booster operation.
I pushed on the brake a few times and watched it return slowly and it would make the PS pump whine when I pushed it and then it stopped when I quit pushing. The PS pump also whined when I would turn the wheel but not much it didn't sound like it did when it was bad it just makes a little noise which I understand is normal. I probably wouldn't have heard it if I didn't have the hood open.
Since my pedal was going to the floor rather easily and returning slowly I checked all four bleeders for leaks and didn't see any I also checked the ground and looked for any sign of a fluid leak.
After I didn't see any I pulled the master cylinder out and found a little bit of liquid where it and the booster meet but it was such a small amount I couldn't tell what it was. There was also a little residue of fluid on the bottom and back of the MC but I'm not sure if that's from when I put it in and hooked up the lines or a leak I didn't know of before.
After the MC came out I decided to push the brake (while the car is off) for fun and it goes down and springs back up rather quickly and before it would go down and return slow with the car running and even with the the car off.
I figured I could try a new MC and then if that doesn't fix it I will try to bleed the hydroboost system like charlief1 suggest in the previous post. Hopefully one of these two fix it and if it doesn't I will try the booster.
I did a bit of reading about brakes in general and they said if you weren't getting any assistance from the booster that the pedal would be hard. Would this still be the case with hydroboost?
I pressed the brake pedal five times to release any fluid in it and held the brake pedal down just slightly and started the car. I felt it lift off my foot and then push back against it. From what I read online at various sites it was a way to check hydroboost systems for proper booster operation.
I pushed on the brake a few times and watched it return slowly and it would make the PS pump whine when I pushed it and then it stopped when I quit pushing. The PS pump also whined when I would turn the wheel but not much it didn't sound like it did when it was bad it just makes a little noise which I understand is normal. I probably wouldn't have heard it if I didn't have the hood open.
Since my pedal was going to the floor rather easily and returning slowly I checked all four bleeders for leaks and didn't see any I also checked the ground and looked for any sign of a fluid leak.
After I didn't see any I pulled the master cylinder out and found a little bit of liquid where it and the booster meet but it was such a small amount I couldn't tell what it was. There was also a little residue of fluid on the bottom and back of the MC but I'm not sure if that's from when I put it in and hooked up the lines or a leak I didn't know of before.
After the MC came out I decided to push the brake (while the car is off) for fun and it goes down and springs back up rather quickly and before it would go down and return slow with the car running and even with the the car off.
I figured I could try a new MC and then if that doesn't fix it I will try to bleed the hydroboost system like charlief1 suggest in the previous post. Hopefully one of these two fix it and if it doesn't I will try the booster.
Still no luck with my hydroboost.
Last week I changed my master cylinder, bench bled it threw it on and bled the brakes 10 times per wheel. Same result slow pedal return, super soft pedal with no braking force unless I mash it to the floor.
I bled the system like Charlie said to by disconnecting the return line and pumping the brakes. Fluid came out on every pump and I did that until I added between 1/2 and 1 quart extra fluid. Same results.
I emailed Rock Auto they mailed me a new booster I put it on and filled the PS res bled the brakes 15 times per wheel and cranked the motor a couple seconds to allow it to fill the PS fluid back up. I turned the wheel stop to stop a few times and refilled the fluid. Put it into gear and same result soft pedal and slow return.
The reman booster came with a troubleshooting chart.
Lacks power assist could be loose or broken PS belt, low fluid in reservoir, dirt/debris in booster.
Slow pedal return is a restricted return line.
I changed the bleeders to speed bleeders and the one on the passenger front has a drip of fluid on the bottom of it sometimes when I first go try to bleed that wheel. Think that it could be the problem?
Last week I changed my master cylinder, bench bled it threw it on and bled the brakes 10 times per wheel. Same result slow pedal return, super soft pedal with no braking force unless I mash it to the floor.
I bled the system like Charlie said to by disconnecting the return line and pumping the brakes. Fluid came out on every pump and I did that until I added between 1/2 and 1 quart extra fluid. Same results.
I emailed Rock Auto they mailed me a new booster I put it on and filled the PS res bled the brakes 15 times per wheel and cranked the motor a couple seconds to allow it to fill the PS fluid back up. I turned the wheel stop to stop a few times and refilled the fluid. Put it into gear and same result soft pedal and slow return.
The reman booster came with a troubleshooting chart.
Lacks power assist could be loose or broken PS belt, low fluid in reservoir, dirt/debris in booster.
Slow pedal return is a restricted return line.
I changed the bleeders to speed bleeders and the one on the passenger front has a drip of fluid on the bottom of it sometimes when I first go try to bleed that wheel. Think that it could be the problem?
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
I'm going through this right now and wish I had never changed, considering the money I paid to have it swapped over.
How is the health of your power steering pump? When you are braking, do you notice the steering stiffen up as well, like it is laboring to keep up with the demand of both? A slow leaking bleeder shouldn't cause that much of an impact on braking. I assume your rear brakes are adjusted properly since that has an impact on the pedal
I haven't touched the rear brakes since removing my powermaster a few months ago and they worked fine when I did.
The steering seems fine, it's a new (reman) pump I put in during the whole HB setup and it's not making hardly any noise. Usually only when I have the steering at the lock.
I was out in the garage moving the steering lock to lock a bunch for a few minutes and it helped speed up the pedal return but it's still kind of sluggish. Much better though, I could probably deal with it as long as the brake stopped.
The only stopping I've tried to do is putting in gear and letting it roll at idle rpms and even at that slow 2 mph speed I have to push the brake completely to the floor to stop.
Where did you tee into the ps reservoir return? Is it similar to the below?
Yep my T looks about identical to that one. After work I'm going to check that bleeder and hope it fixes it.
Lucas
Too much lucas will make the PS pump whine. It is def. too thick. On cold days, it's a lot worse. I removed most of what I had added. Confucius once said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Too much lucas will make the PS pump whine. It is def. too thick. On cold days, it's a lot worse. I removed most of what I had added. Confucius once said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I think I have flushed it all out. I was just making sure it wasn't that causing the problem at all since it was pretty thick stuff and could have caused a blockage.
1quick6. No problem on the detailed info. I used to fix jets and know how important the right information is especially when someone is fixing something you started on two shifts later.
Good news to anyone who might care, I got the brakes sorted out and they work great. It turned out that the 1/4" line going to the back of the master cylinder was leaking just a little bit at the threads but it was hiding the fluid loss rather well. I noticed it eventually when I was going to bleed the brakes and clamp the proportioning valve and saw a wet line coming down from up top so I watched carefully and pushed the brakes and saw a small amount of fluid drip out. I didn't even see the fluid drop in the master cylinder because of it. Someone before me also put sealant on the threads too so it slowed down the leak as well until I stripped the sealant off and saw it ooze out and bubble up there.
That's great. I couldn't think of anything else. I didn't want to say new master cylinder again, but it sure sounded like an internal leak to me. Nice that you found it to be just the line!
On a side note, check out this stuff called SharkHide. It should keep that master cylinder corrosion free! I painted mine black before I found this stuff.
On a side note, check out this stuff called SharkHide. It should keep that master cylinder corrosion free! I painted mine black before I found this stuff.
The_Six
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
Hey guys got every thing here to do my hoses to stainless braided but was wondering if it woud be ok to use a compression fitting on the pump to hydro boost hose I could just cut the fitting off the steel line on the stock hose and use one of these so I can use a -6 hose Summit Racing SUM-2200077B - Summit Racing® AN to Tube Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com would this work or would it be to much presure in the line for the fitting?
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