Remanufactured MAF

ya I know. I figure, get the new stuff on and if it still does it, at least I'll know for sure it's not the maf and I won't have to worry about it going bad for a very long time.
 
Stock MAF

I have a reman Cardone on my car. Same as the original one, the total numbers do max at 255. Been on the car for 17 years and still works great. I would order one wait to see what it looks like( Exact Original Body) run it on the car. Few weeks later turn in your old core and get your core money back. Only reason why some dont max to 255 is the cars tune is off.
 
just put a cardone on mine and everything is good.

for nearly ten years i have been measuring lots of mafs that are marketed for the GN---------i have no dog in this fight-------only facts-------anyone want to see the numbers i can post actual flow vs gm/sec numbers------when the cardone units first became available from the mainstream auto parts stores in the late 90's you could count on about half of them to work correctly---------before i continue i want to clearly define "work correctly"--------this means that the signal sent to the ecm will give accurate data throughout the ENTIRE operating range-------ie from idle up to the point where the ECM stops reading at 255--------some units will read accurately at higher numbers and others will read accurately at lower numbers while some are all over the place depending on what actual engines they were originally designed for--------at the last event i had several "poor performers" here for testing and when i was finished i discussed the results with Bob Bailey-------the question i asked him was simple-------how are these companies successufully marketing these poorly performing products?------his answer was about as clear as anything i could come up with-------"lowered expectations"---------some folks don't even know when the car is working correctly as long as it appears to "run correctly"------I believe bob is certainly right on the mark--------from the gaggle of new GN owners that straggle by my shop on a rather regular basis for help it is clear that many owners have no idea just how their car is supposed to run in the first place-------sometimes if it idles OK and isn't smoking or popping they think all is fine--------now back to the history of replacement Mafs---------when the cardone mafs first came out they were more often than not made from correct cores------correct originals were marked with the code BW underneath--------a 90 degree downward plug is not a guarantee that you have the correct unit but it at least means that you might at least have a chance-------at first all the aftermarket remans sold for GN's were downward plugs and the odds of a good one were high--------eventually the cores started getting rarer and the stock started getting populated with the straight plug units--------it is RARE to find one of these that is calibrated correctly--------as time went on even the bad cores with downward plugs started to dry up and cardone started modifying some of the units by adding rivited mounts to the side so that they would "bolt on" to a GN correctly--------to date i have never seen one of these that worked correctly--------at one time Dennis was selling these until I informed him that they were no good (probably about 6/8 years ago)---------the auto parts stores still sell lots of these---------from my best guess i would say you have way less than a one in five chance of getting a good maf from a regular parts store--------car may seem fine under some less demanding conditions but its not really right--------Dennis has managed to isolate a small population of correct cores that cardone seems to get the calibration pretty close on----------bottom line is really this---------when GM discontinued the correct maf Bob bailey really fixed the problem right---------nothing (not even the correct original) works as good as the LT1 unit with his translator-------it is superior in every respect except for $--------if you really need a stock look the Cardone that dennis sells is the best alternative--------at least you know the car is going to run and perform correctly---------for those that are interested here is an actual calibration curve for the BW maf-------it is an average of three brand new NOS units measured on a Superflow 1200 flowbench that is carefully calibrated................RC
 

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thanks for posting the info. I would love to have a lt1 and translator. but right now is not the time. this is a weekend cruiser and the $40 cardone unit got my car back on the road.
Is it dead nuts on? I doubt it but it works for now with no issues that "I" can see. The scanmaster readings are all within limits as well.
This winter the car will be getting a cam, lifter, springs, converter, and lt1/translator upgrade.
 
If your car will read 255 at WOT, and your looking from a performance aspect, yours will be fine...its not rocket science.
 
I think it's silly to expect everyone to know everything about their cars, it's not going to happen. Of course there are lots of people that go to shops to find out whats wrong. The reason we go to shops is that the people there work on these cars alot and know exactly what they are doing.
Does everybody know how to fix their tv's? or do major home repairs? no, why is a car any different?

I've learn a ton about my T in the last year of owning it and reading on the forums and my mechanic friends just helping me out. It's a on going process that I will never fully know and ya know what? I'm fine with that.

People like me are why the shops are still in business and you should be thanking our lazyness and/or good paying jobs so that we can support you shop owners/employees LOL

I'm a painter at a dealership and i respect the fact that 60% of people can't drive. It's what affords me spending all my allocated car money with Brian @ Gbodyparts and taking my 86T to a specialist when the time comes :)
 
stock MAF

Does anyone have a picture of a correct stock MAF? Pick-up Cardone reman #2 tonite. Will post results.

As I posted earlier, first one idled fine and have better tip-in but once going ran super rich and could not even get to WOT. SM did show numbers increasing up until point of stutter/cut-out.
 
for nearly ten years i have been measuring lots of mafs that are marketed for the GN---------i have no dog in this fight-------only facts-------anyone want to see the numbers i can post actual flow vs gm/sec numbers------when the cardone units first became available from the mainstream auto parts stores in the late 90's you could count on about half of them to work correctly---------before i continue i want to clearly define "work correctly"--------this means that the signal sent to the ecm will give accurate data throughout the ENTIRE operating range-------ie from idle up to the point where the ECM stops reading at 255--------some units will read accurately at higher numbers and others will read accurately at lower numbers while some are all over the place depending on what actual engines they were originally designed for--------at the last event i had several "poor performers" here for testing and when i was finished i discussed the results with Bob Bailey-------the question i asked him was simple-------how are these companies successufully marketing these poorly performing products?------his answer was about as clear as anything i could come up with-------"lowered expectations"---------some folks don't even know when the car is working correctly as long as it appears to "run correctly"------I believe bob is certainly right on the mark--------from the gaggle of new GN owners that straggle by my shop on a rather regular basis for help it is clear that many owners have no idea just how their car is supposed to run in the first place-------sometimes if it idles OK and isn't smoking or popping they think all is fine--------now back to the history of replacement Mafs---------when the cardone mafs first came out they were more often than not made from correct cores------correct originals were marked with the code BW underneath--------a 90 degree downward plug is not a guarantee that you have the correct unit but it at least means that you might at least have a chance-------at first all the aftermarket remans sold for GN's were downward plugs and the odds of a good one were high--------eventually the cores started getting rarer and the stock started getting populated with the straight plug units--------it is RARE to find one of these that is calibrated correctly--------as time went on even the bad cores with downward plugs started to dry up and cardone started modifying some of the units by adding rivited mounts to the side so that they would "bolt on" to a GN correctly--------to date i have never seen one of these that worked correctly--------at one time Dennis was selling these until I informed him that they were no good (probably about 6/8 years ago)---------the auto parts stores still sell lots of these---------from my best guess i would say you have way less than a one in five chance of getting a good maf from a regular parts store--------car may seem fine under some less demanding conditions but its not really right--------Dennis has managed to isolate a small population of correct cores that cardone seems to get the calibration pretty close on----------bottom line is really this---------when GM discontinued the correct maf Bob bailey really fixed the problem right---------nothing (not even the correct original) works as good as the LT1 unit with his translator-------it is superior in every respect except for $--------if you really need a stock look the Cardone that dennis sells is the best alternative--------at least you know the car is going to run and perform correctly---------for those that are interested here is an actual calibration curve for the BW maf-------it is an average of three brand new NOS units measured on a Superflow 1200 flowbench that is carefully calibrated................RC


Thanks for posting this Richard, I now have some black and white text to show my customers what I have been seeing in the real world for years.
I have tried tons of re-man maf sensors and nothing has compared to the sucess I have had with the translator system, those not using it are missing out.
Further to that, those using the orignial stock maf should consider carefully storing their original and using the translator system.
 
Does anyone have a picture of a correct stock MAF? Pick-up Cardone reman #2 tonite. Will post results.

As I posted earlier, first one idled fine and have better tip-in but once going ran super rich and could not even get to WOT. SM did show numbers increasing up until point of stutter/cut-out.

Cardone Reman/Mass Air Flow Sensor (74-7866) | 1987 Buick Regal 6 Cylinders 7 3.8L SFI OHV Turbo | AutoZone.com

Look for the connector to point towards the ground and look to make sure it doesn't have an add on bracket riveted for the mounting holes. Always keep your original core until you have run the sensor a few weeks with proper results from it.
 
Just for the record. The maf I replaced was an aftermarket unit form "micro-tech".
 
cardone MAF

OK, pick-up MAF #2 last night. This one had the plug facing down (perpendicular to airflow). Car actually ran OK and was able to get into boost. However, SM showed some major KR so had to back out. Not sure if the MAF or another problem. BLMs still high so need to track that down also.

Good news is for $50, idle and idle tip in is much better and can now drive under normal conditions without it sputtering/bucking from a stop.

Long story short, IMO, is try luck with Cardone if you don't want to "beat" on it. If you want to go fast, as the senior guys stated, go with late model MAF and translater......which is next on my list.

Thanks All!!!
 
OK, pick-up MAF #2 last night. This one had the plug facing down (perpendicular to airflow). Car actually ran OK and was able to get into boost. However, SM showed some major KR so had to back out. Not sure if the MAF or another problem. BLMs still high so need to track that down also.

Good news is for $50, idle and idle tip in is much better and can now drive under normal conditions without it sputtering/bucking from a stop.

Long story short, IMO, is try luck with Cardone if you don't want to "beat" on it. If you want to go fast, as the senior guys stated, go with late model MAF and translater......which is next on my list.

Thanks All!!!

sometimes the problem with them if the cal curve is wrong is that they will run rich at some flow levels and lean at others--------if the error is beyond the ecm's ability to compensate the engine either runs rich or lean at certain power levels-------kinda hard to pin down if you don't have lots of time or a flow bench--------if you really want to be safe send it to me and i can give it a quick flow and see what the numbers look like..........RC
 
the BW i bought almost 2 years ago maxes out at 256 according to PL. however the files show it drops to 40 during the runs:eek: while on other runs its pinned to 255/56 full pull.
I'm gonna try another one.
 
The micro-tech maf's are not good at all.

I currently have 2 that are way way off base. I had richard test these and do a chart on them and i sent a chart to the company.
 
I think it took me 5 or 6 cardone reman MAFs before I got one that worked well enough to drive. It does max out at 255 though. I keep it for the odd chance that my LS1 MAF fails me.
 
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