Slow Window Motors!!

T

Torx

New Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Sheesh, even with new motors they are super slow! What gives!?
Is there a replacement motor i can use from another car without major modifications to the door frame, etc??

Is there a voltage increase modification i can use to easily increase safe voltage to the motors?

Not having window sweeps is ruining my motors?? (duh)

Thanks for any info, tell me what you guys are using, have done for those speedy windows.
 
After reading the last slower passenger window thread, i kept an eye open.

Checked out my buddies 2003 chevy pickup, his pass side window is slower, so is my 2002 dodge 3500.
As i recall, the 78 regals window regulators are faster, but i dont have any real world testing.

Check the voltage at the window while trying to make the window go up, how low does the power drop to?

Have you checked the fuse panel bolt inside the engine bay?
Small bolt in the center of the fuse panel that holds the bulkhead to the inside fuse panel. Battery power comes into the fuse panel there.

BW
 
chrisgarrett said:
I have been told that these are a whole new deal for our cars.


http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_buick.htm
Click to expand...

I can testify to this system. Just bought a car with these motors and regulators and I was amazed at how fast the windows go up and down. :eek: Probably true though if you can get more voltage to your swithches. I don't think it's as easy as running a hotwire kit to the fuelpump though. :frown:
 
The passenger side window has a longer run of wire(very small gauge) than the driver's side(closer to the fuse box, driver's side dual switch, etc). Thus: there will be a voltage drop and slower functioning. Replacing the wires to the switches and motors with bigger gauge wire(from the fuse block) would pick up a little speed, but- probably hardly worth the effort. A hot-wire(fused) from the battery/relay-by-the-window-motor sytem(triggered by the exsisting wire) would work much better. If it's a big issue to you: getting that new motor kit from A1 is probably the best way to go.
 
Red Regal T said:
Probably true though if you can get more voltage to your swithches. I don't think it's as easy as running a hotwire kit to the fuelpump though. :frown:
Click to expand...
You're right: It wouldn't be quite that easy. You'd have to figure a way to reverse the circuit for up/down at both the driver's and the passenger's switches(the passenger circuit goes through the driver's side first).
 
Caspers makes a wiring upgrade for the windows...runs off the sunroof wiring...Helped my car.., along with a new psgr window motor....
 
I forgot i made this thread, thnx for the replies..

Yes, i replaced them with A1 motors, but i think they were the ~$50 ones, i bought them a while back and forgot the cost. They definately arent the ~200 ones, lol.

Yea, i remember this website i think it was kirbans website. They sold a hot wire kit that went to the sunroof or somthing... That site is down now.

That upgrading awg wire idea is good, didnt think of that. Does seem like a hassle though
What if you dont have a sunroof and want to use the caspers kit?
 
The point is not to have the sunroof. I got the one from Kirban's a while back but I think they're the same thing. It gets the extra voltage directly from the back of the alternator I believe, so it only helps when the car is running. I have it installed in my car and although it helps, if I had the money it sounds like I'd probably do it over and get the A1 motors. My windows got noticably faster, but the passenger window is still too slow for my tastes...
 
New motors aint going to help you unless you take care of the voltage problem. And the power window and astroroof are on the same circuit so what ever band aid kits that are out are going to do the same thing until you address the voltage problem. The more voltage you have going to the big pink wire the faster the motors are going to work.
 
Just out of curiosity is the helper spring broke. It is a spring that is similar to the hood spring you would see on a Monte Carlo. (Monte Carlo’s do not have lift support struts that hold the hood open. This round coiled up spring does the job). A spring like this is located in the scissor assembly of the window, if the spring breaks the window goes up really slow, because this spring helps it come up.
 
never noticed a spring, but will check it out next time i got the panels off.
 
Been inside the doors of my '85, '87 and my Fisher Body manual: no springs!! Maybe that's the problem: Fisher Body plants forgot to put them in there :eek: !!
 
rodman99999 said:
Been inside the doors of my '85, '87 and my Fisher Body manual: no springs!! Maybe that's the problem: Fisher Body plants forgot to put them in there :eek: !!
Click to expand...

That spring is old technology which is why they dont use them anymore. The 78 regulators used them only because they had the ancient old style motors. If you have concert sound speakers the 78 regulators wont work as the motors hit the speakers. Yes, thats how big and heavy they are. Stick with the stock motors and make sure they get at least 12 volts and they will be better than any of the band aid solutions posted here.

You guys need to stop and analize the real problem here. These are 20 year old cars. Do you think any one b:tched about slow window motors back when these cars were new? If that was the case than there should have been quite a few motors replaced under warranty. There wasn't. The only reason they seem slow when comparing them to a newer vehicle is because of the gap in 20 years of technology. You're comparing apples to oranges.
 
The ONLY way to get full voltage to the motors is larger wire(all the way from the source)! If you can come up with another way: patent it and you'll get rich. Outside of using silver as a conductor, or some frozen superconductor- The gauge wire that they used in these cars is going to produce a voltage drop. Do you consider the fuel pump hotwire kits a "band-aid?" They are an upgrade for an outdated system.The A1 replacement motors are probably designed(new technology) to produce more torque/speed at the same amps/volts that are available to our existing motors. Buying from them would be the easier/more effective option. Besides: there are already witnesses(in here) to the fact that they work ;) .
 
turbofish38 said:
That spring is old technology which is why they dont use them anymore. The 78 regulators used them only because they had the ancient old style motors. If you have concert sound speakers the 78 regulators wont work as the motors hit the speakers. Yes, thats how big and heavy they are. Stick with the stock motors and make sure they get at least 12 volts and they will be better than any of the band aid solutions posted here.

You guys need to stop and analize the real problem here. These are 20 year old cars. Do you think any one b:tched about slow window motors back when these cars were new? If that was the case than there should have been quite a few motors replaced under warranty. There wasn't. The only reason they seem slow when comparing them to a newer vehicle is because of the gap in 20 years of technology. You're comparing apples to oranges.
Click to expand...

That's exactly correct about that spring. As a matter of fact, I took older regulators with the springs off a pre-80 car, and they were a little helpful. There is no way to use the spring on later regulators.

Again, my new T has the $250 motor and regulator set up from A1. I was shocked when I first hit the window buttons. At least 3 times as fast as I've been used to. :D It was shocking! :eek:
 
Does the A1 motor/regulator assembly connect to the factory wiring? All of their stuff on the website seems to be to sell the wiring harness/switch assemblys for a lot more cash than the regulators/motors only. The factory switches and harness are over $150. Is this needed, or only if you add these to a manual window car?
Thanks,
Dave
 
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