TCC replaced and now EM/SOL fuse blows

[Scarab]

I bought a TCC solenoid off ebay and it had the same color wires as the one in my trans, One red and one black. I butt connected them together and put the pan back on. Since then it will blow the ECM/SOL fuse like a dead short.

My question is that I use regular butt connectors that are not sealed. Can this cause the "+" wire which is red to short out in the fluid? If so what type of connector do I need?

I dont want to cheap taking trans baths.

 

[CzyKats44]

I've replaced these as well and an unsealed connection has not caused any issues. Is it possible you pinched one of the wires when the pan went back on?

 

[Scarab]

ok so the connectors dont have to be insulated. I will drop the pan and see if a wire got pinched. But i dont think it did. Maybe the solenoid is bad that I bought? we will see

 

[CzyKats44]

The wire ends were protected from grounding out, just not sealed to the fluid. Good Luck, swimming in ATF sucks.

 

[mikestertwo]

Either you have a wire shorted to ground, a bad solenoid (internal short), or the solenoid is wired backwards.

 

[Scarab]

I hooked red to tan and black to black. Don't think it is wired backwards. But I hope I pinched a wire.

 

[Dave Dunbar]

Put a meter on it. Check for continuity between the two wires. If solenoid is good you will have continuity. Then check each wire to solenoid body, if you have continuity the the solenoid is bad.

 

[Steve V]

Probably have a bad solenoid, I had 2 Fiztall units dead shorted out of the package last year.

 

[Scarab]

Well I unplugged the connector on the side of the transmission. Put a new fuse in and it is fine. As soon as I plug in the transmission connector it blows.

So I replace the fuse and leave the key off. I pull the transmission pan and look at the wires very close. No signs of rub or naked wires anywhere. disconnected the TCC and turned on the key. No fuse blowing. Took the solenoid to the battery and it clicks and does not spark like a short. Works freely. Went back and re butt connected it and put it back in the trans. Turn on key fuse still good. Put fluid in it and ran it through the gears. Everything works.

Don't know what was shorting out? could not find anything in the wiring but something was causing it. I also check the tan wire and it has 12V on it. so I guess it is fixed, just wish I could have found something. And the trans bath was good for my skin,,,,,, yea right that sucked shit.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I've gotten to the point that whenever a trans pan is dropped it gets a drain plug. Of course learned that the hard way.

I do have an idea about what may have happened to the TCC solenoid. Don't know if this is what occurred, but can happen. The solenoid coil has a diode across it to absorb inductive kickback (reverse voltage spike when the solenoid power is removed).

It may be that someone tested the solenoid with a weak power supply with the power reversed. This overloaded the diode and caused it to short out. Now you install it and it pops the fuse as it is shorted. Or, the leads were reversed at the factory which caused the diode to pop the fuse.

You apply power to the solenoid via the vehicle battery (lots of amp available). This fries the diode causing it to go open. So now it works.

If the diode is gone you may notice a glitch in the radio or ECM when the TCC unlocks. So look for that and keep this post in mind.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Scarab]

got it fixed, just dropped the pan and cut the wires again and reconnected them. Took car out for a drive. Works perfect and locks perfect. Now I just have to find a way to stop it from spinning the tires at 50 mph.