Think I blew a head gasket?

Does the head gasket hang over the combustion chamber near the exhaust valve or is this just the way the photo makes it look ? I ask because I ran into this on one of my motors that had the exhaust valves unshrouded.
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Get a straight edge and a feeler gauge and check the head and the deck for straightness. It's probably OK but best to check it.

Also look closely at injector #6 and see if there's anything in the filter basket. I would send the set to Chuck to get checked and cleaned make sure there's nothing funky going on.
Will do. I already have the injectors bagged and numbered. They looked ok but I don't have the scope to look into the baskets good and my eyesight ain't that great.
 
Those rod bearings should have been chamfered before install. The head surface isnt smooth enough for those gaskets. Definitely saw some unhappy combustion events looking at the insert in the connecting rod


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I guess that is why the bearing insert looks worn on the edges. I figured my builder would have known to do that. So should I replace the bearings then? I guess I need to get the heads re-finished as well? I am going to try and go by my builders shop at lunch today to discuss. I can't believe they made these seemingly obvious mistakes. The place I use builds lots of the hot rod engines around Houston and they have a guy that specifically works on turbo Buicks. I guess anything is possible. I will be doing the re-assembly myself and will be checking everything twice. I hope to get it back together soon as I was really starting to enjoy driving it.
 
Does the head gasket hang over the combustion chamber near the exhaust valve or is this just the way the photo makes it look ? I ask because I ran into this on one of my motors that had the exhaust valves unshrouded.
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I think that may just be an illusion. I will check tonight on the drivers side head and gasket as they were in tact and came off clean.
 
those are the "wider" rod bearings? I haven't seen any in a while.
I looked at the back of the bearing. It is apparently a Federal Mogul.
Numbers on back as follows:
7120CH
F/m
Std
02 12
3411A
I think these are the wider bearings and apparently they were not chamfered enough for the fillets on my K1 crank. Looks like they self-chamfered some.
 
I would replace the rod bearings. You can use the wide with a heavy chamfer. The way they were is no good for oil flow. The oil has to be able to flow across the bearing and can't as easily if the clearance is too small. Heads need to be very smooth.


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I talked to my builder at lunch. He said he would get me a set of rod bearings and chamfer them. I will probably do that. I will pull off the number 3 main cap to look at the bearing but I bet it is ok. My builder also said he would surface the heads to a smoother finish if I bring them in. Everything else in the motor seems to be fine. I will be getting it back together over the next few weeks. Looks like I got out of this one for the cost of gaskets. Next time I will make sure I stay at the right AFR. I am also going to verify my timing while I am at it to be sure I am not running more timing than the computer tells me.
 
Not concerned about the health of the #6 injector?
Oh, yes. I am still going to get the injectors flow checked and cleaned. With all the talk on the E85 board about crud in the injector baskets etc. I am paranoid about it. Going to check my fuel filter also. I was way lean in general when I popped the gasket so it looks like I will be running a safe AFR at 19 psi boost until I decide what I am going to do.
 
Looks like I am doing main bearings too. I pulled the #3 main and it did not look so good so I pulled them all. None of them look too great for a 1000 mile motor. Maybe at least the cam bearings will be ok. The number 5 rod bearing looked decent.
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Looks like I am doing main bearings too. I pulled the #3 main and it did not look so good so I pulled them all. None of them look too great for a 1000 mile motor. Maybe at least the cam bearings will be ok. The number 5 rod bearing looked decent.
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With everything I've seen above.. I would start questioning your builder and if you want them to do anything more ...
 
Looks like I am doing main bearings too. I pulled the #3 main and it did not look so good so I pulled them all. None of them look too great for a 1000 mile motor. Maybe at least the cam bearings will be ok. The number 5 rod bearing looked decent.
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You need to do a complete tear down and bring the block to a machine shop that can check the line bore. Chances are it is off. The bearing inserts look like poop. Those main bearings needed chamfering also.
 
That is what I was afraid of. I will be doing all the reassembly myself. Will find a different machine shop to check the line bore.
 
That is what I was afraid of. I will be doing all the reassembly myself. Will find a different machine shop to check the line bore.


That is a good call on your part.. ask all the questions you need to to make sure its done correctly.. I am sure between the people on here to give direction and a quality machine shop, with you doing the re-assembly that you will be far ahead ... take your time do it right and you will be happy with the results.
 
I got the injectors flow checked and cleaned today. They all checked out fine. Each one only picked up a few percent flow after cleaning. It cost money but at least now I know for sure I do not have a bad injector. Those injectors have been in the car for over 2 years on E85. I do not drive a lot of miles (1000 per year or so) but the car does sit for months at a time with E85 in it. I only have a 100 micron screen in-line filter plus whatever the filter socks on the pumps catch. I guess I am lucky so far. Now I got to get back to putting my motor back together.
 
Good luck with it!

I just need to order the new heads and gaskets. Thinking about TA headers too?

Got all winter to decide.
 
Motor is completely apart now. The block side main bearing inserts looked worse. I checked the main bore alignment the old school way with a machinist's straight edge and a .0015" feeler gauge. Feeler gauge would not go in anywhere. I don't have a bore gauge or I would have checked the bores. I spoke to a machinist the he recommended I get the crankshaft checked out first before I go too far getting the block checked. He said that sometimes the K1 cranks can be a little off on the journals right out of the box. Has anyone heard of this? It will be easier for me to take the crank to a local crank specialist and get it checked out before I haul the block somewhere. If the crank checks out the block is next.
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I've seen a few over seas cranks with journal issues. The block needs to be verified regardless. Everything needs to be measured


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