Upgrading to an LT1 alternator

[Chevman2448]

Ok...I got this 87 GN without an alternator. So as the title says i might get an LT1 alternator because of the higher amp output. So since I have an 87 that already has a one wire alternator all I need is the 25503134 alternator bracket?
What other cars do these brackets come off of?
Can someone who has done this mod post a picture of the final results? Basically I want it so I know the orientation (mounting location of the bracket). Its just easier that way.
As far as the alternator goes...Would it need to be off of a Camaro or Impala SS or would one off of a Buick Roadmaster or Caprice be the same thing?

 

[Bescurred]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/search/6040523/?q=LT1+alternator&t=post&o=date&c[title_only]=1

I've never done it but it looks like you might have to might the lower back bracket and reclock the outer case.

 

[mybuick]

i upgraded a few years ago. the alternator will fit with the stock brackets, just clock the alt so the cable don't touch the valve cover. but the alternator won't charge at idle or at a stoplight. the gn idle is 2 low for the alternator to charge. maby somebody else will chime on about this issue?

 

[O SO LO]

The 25503134 alternator bracket is required for 84-85 Hot Air cars- LT1 alternator should fit your 87 GN just fine...

 

[SS/GN]

Why not just put a rebuilt stocker on?

 

[buickGN3:16]

Read my alternator thread in the electrical section before u decide to go this route


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Bescurred]

Read my alternator thread in the electrical section before u decide to go this route


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

A link would help him out...

 

[O SO LO]

A link would help him out...

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/alternator-volts.403838/#post-3310698

 

[Heisenberg]

Were it me - I would do as SS/GN advised.
Go with a stocker - much less muss n fuss.
Hit the junkyard dogs section of TB.com for a list of compatible vehicles.
Then hit the boneyard.
Clock if you need to - but a lot come ready to bolt on.
A very cheap solution.

Alot of voodoo is made of the higher and higher amp outputs.
But - as has been noted- you really need to see the speed vs. amp output curve to see if where it achieves what output at what alt RPM.
Look at some curves / charts and you'll be sort of surprised to see the outputs aren't what you'd be expecting.
And - simply because one is rated for more amps - doesn't necessarily provide you with any real benefit if your demand is not that high.
There are so many other things things to tweak and modify - this wouldn't be high on my list of mods.
A good, basic 120A model that can bolt on and provide you with decent voltage and current does the trick. 2 cents.

 

[Chevman2448]

I was just looking to go this route simply because I dont have one. I can get one from a local yard for 20 bucks. If Its bad I can rebuild it for another 20 or so. An OEM piece would cost the same.

I appreciate the reply's.

 

[Chevman2448]

Went to the yard and picked up a bunch of other stuff to help get the car back together. Headlight buckets and even the wipers were missing too. Looks like I got a money pit here. LMAO...Arent they all though? Anyways.....I think Ill take the advice and just get a stock 120 amp piece. If the engine doesnt idle fast enough to get a good charge there is no sense in getting the higher amp piece.

 

[johnl455]

For what it's worth, years ago Richard Clark did a well thought out test of the 120A vs 200 myth and such. Turning on all accessories, brights, highblower, rear def, radio and running power windows, brake lights and powermaster, draw was somewhere below 100A. People confuse voltage and amperage and don't understand that more is not better in terms of parasitc drag.

 

[SS/GN]

If you really want the best set up put a volt booster on it. I noticed real fast cars at BG had volt boosters on them

 

[Chevman2448]

I dont think I need one of those. The car will likely be a cruiser and once in a while strip car. When I feel the need for speed.

 

[turbo39151]

I put a 140 amp unit from an SS Impala on my GN and rebuilt the 120 amp stocker on the ttype. Both work just fine.
Impala unit is plug and play.

 

[Chevman2448]

Looks like an OEM piece or the Impala SS one is the way to go. Plug and play is always nice. Found a brand new Impala SS unit for 122.

 

[Chevman2448]

Well I decided to just go ahead and buy an alternator. Im going with a Impala unit. For a couple of reasons. One of them being the cost for each unit. I can get a brand new LT1 Impala unit for 122 (no core charge) and the stocker 120 amp unit reman for 182 (actually 200 since I dont have a core) from the same source. From doing research my car has an aftermarket engine management system on it as well as I plan on running an aftermarket fuel system, since it doesnt have a fuel pump. So I feel the need for extra voltage may be there. Im no expert though so I could be wrong but the cost of each unit makes the difference.

 

[87-WE2]

Chevman - what did you end up doing for an alternator? Mine is on it's way out. Any chance you have a part# still?

 

[Chevman2448]

Brand new Lt1 Impala SS unit. Bolted right on. Harness plugged right in. #88877258 It was 132 shipped from rockauto.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

I put one on mine with no problems and got mine from Advance Auto and only thing I had to do was ream the terminal for the battery post a little , been working great with no volt booster .