Volt booster or not?

I heard alot of guys were having issues with the volt boosters when using alky.

I don't know about the VB from experience but I run alky and that's why I opted to go with the good alternator instead of the VB. I've heard a lot of people with alky state it's very hard to tune with the VB and alky. Probably works great all the other times though. It's still a gimick fix for an underlying voltage issue. Fix the voltage issue and the VB is not needed.
 
I don't know about the VB from experience but I run alky and that's why I opted to go with the good alternator instead of the VB. I've heard a lot of people with alky state it's very hard to tune with the VB and alky. Probably works great all the other times though. It's still a gimick fix for an underlying voltage issue. Fix the voltage issue and the VB is not needed.

I don't think this is completly true. No one should be supplimenting a volt booster for a bad charging system. Plus a 16 volt system will always outperform a 14 volt system when driving the ignition and fuel pump.

Allan G.
 
I don't think this is completly true. No one should be supplimenting a volt booster for a bad charging system. Plus a 16 volt system will always outperform a 14 volt system when driving the ignition and fuel pump.

Allan G.

Good point. I still believe that increasing the voltage either from tps or boost, will make alky harder to tune. If you run race gas or just pump gas, it probably does a great job.
 
Good point. I still believe that increasing the voltage either from tps or boost, will make alky harder to tune. If you run race gas or just pump gas, it probably does a great job.

I don't use alky so can't comment on that but I am still using the stock ignition and it needs all the help it can get.

Allan G.
 
I don't use alky so can't comment on that but I am still using the stock ignition and it needs all the help it can get.

Allan G.

x2 on the ignition. I went through modules/packs almost yearly before getting my voltage up. I use the TR-6 module now and can run 30psi on a lean cruise friendly .040 gap though. It's hotwired and never misses a beat although if you just change the fuse, the hotwire is not needed. I just left it as it was already there and I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.
 
we4Mateo said:
x2 on the ignition. I went through modules/packs almost yearly before getting my voltage up. I use the TR-6 module now and can run 30psi on a lean cruise friendly .040 gap though. It's hotwired and never misses a beat although if you just change the fuse, the hotwire is not needed. I just left it as it was already there and I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

What Hotwire are you running? Homemade, caspers or something different?
 
ikle said:
we4Matao, what alternator are you running?

Powermaster. There are links and I can post one later but I'm on my phone right now.

I set it to never drop before 14.5 volts even with ac and high beams on.
 
Powermaster. There are links and I can post one later but I'm on my phone right now.

I set it to never drop before 14.5 volts even with ac and high beams on.
The volt booster allows the generator to produce its maximum of 16 volts.
 
Ttype6 said:
The volt booster allows the generator to produce its maximum of 16 volts.

The powermaster let's you set voltage anywhere from 12 to 18 volts and it stays there.
 
Ttype6 said:
You set your voltage at 14.5,correct?

Correct. It's usually 14.8 but drops to 14.5 when very hot with ac and high beams on. And yes 16 volts is more but if it were needed, I would've switched to a 16 volt system. It's easier to just run a 12 volt system a little hot. A good factory alt sends a solid high 13 when cold anyway, some higher.
 
The vb is an affordable and effective solution to high fuel demands our cars need. The alternator is not nearly as cost effective, but accomplishes the same thing and is supplying a consistent voltage.
 
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