Wastgate control pin @ ECM (Bstc)

Fast231

Turbo Luvr
Joined
May 24, 2001
It'm finally installing my boost commander- The directions say to cut purple/white wire C1-3, My C3 is green black..?..Not purple white. Is there a miss print in the manual.?. I checked GNTTYPE, D3 is stated (pink white) as wastgate control?? C3 as stated on gnt is IAC control.?.:confused:
 
Originally posted by Fast231
It'm finally installing my boost commander- The directions say to cut purple/white wire C1-3, My C3 is green black..?..Not purple white. Is there a miss print in the manual.?. I checked GNTTYPE, D3 is stated (pink white) as wastgate control?? C3 as stated on gnt is IAC control.?.:confused:

Ummm, On connector C1 pin 3 (C1-3) is Purple/white and is connected to the ECM pin D3. Not sure what in in GNTTYPE, but I can't find any (pink/white) anywhere on the ECM.

I will however go out and look at my hookup to verify and get right back to you.
 
Just went out and verified, and as I suspected, whatever you're reading in GNTTYPE is in error.

It is the purple/white wire. The reason you see the designation C1-3 is because the two connectors are labled C2 (small one) and C1 (larger one) in some factory documentation... In other docuementation (service manual I think), you'll see them designated A or B or C or D with pin numbers.

Here's how they're layed out. The small connector (on what I call the south end of the ECM) is C2, but has two rows of wires labeled row A (on the latch side) and row B (opposite from latch side).
The large connector (on what I call the north end of the ECM) is C1, and it's two rows of pins are row C (on the latch side) and row D (opposite from latch side).

So, armed with that info, you'll see how easy it is to find D3 (boost solenoid control) purple/white. It's on the large connector, on the D side(away from latch) closer to the "south" end(end away from fire wall).

Hope that helps.

CAUTION: make sure you hook the BstC brown wire to the cut purple/white coming out of the ECM, and the white wire to the cut purple/white wire going out into the engine bay.
 
Thanks TD, now it makes sence:rolleyes: i double checked and it does seem that i have it hooked up properly but doesnt change boost. Two things i have to check: Terminals are making contact and the integrity of my wastegate solinoid.

I do get one blip of the arm light when i turn the key on, am i supposed to also get a blip when i turn the bsct off then on? cause i dont. I also do get a varying of the light when adjusting the switch(with TPS advanced to power unit on)so it seems the bsct is working properly. And yes the brown/white wires are hooked accordingly.

TIA
 
Turn key on but don't start the car. Push gas pedal to the floor. The BstC should activate and you should hear the solenoid "buzzing".

Are they still using the connectors that clamshell onto the ECM wires and then the BstC connectors plug into them? I had a problem with the BstC connectors being offcenter and not mating with the clamshells.

Check you switch settings to make sure you are triggering the BstC to take over. Make sure the TPS level pot not set so high that trigger level never gets reached.

Probably lots more to check too, but those are off the top of my head.

Tom
 
hey fast 231, im having the same damn problem with mine so if i figure it out ill let you know and maybe that will help you, or vise versa.:D
 
TD and everyone thanks for the help. One thing that i was trying when trying to get the solnoid to buzz was pinning the min/max. When i put it in the middle it works. so for me the adjustment is a little before the middle and a little after the middle. I also had my boost T hooked up wrong..

turbot2112, does your solnoid make any kind of clunking noice? The way i see it if the Solnoid does nothing the two wires that i would check first is the brown and white (as long as the sol is good) Does your light come on with TPS? if not check that wire also.


Thanks again all,:cool:
 
the solinoid dosent make any noise. i checked the brown and white wire and it is wired correct. everything is working the the way it should as far as the tps and the light coming on. it just aint contolling boost. im glad you got yours working , im gonna rewire it in to the computer and make sure nothing came loose. i checked all the dip switches too. i have a feeling its beat. thanks jeff
 
wait, one more thing, how do you check to see if the solinoid is bad. do you just check to see if there is power at it with your foot to the floor , maybe i just answered my own question. im gonna check it out later. thanks jeff
 
Originally posted by turbot2112
wait, one more thing, how do you check to see if the solinoid is bad. do you just check to see if there is power at it with your foot to the floor , maybe i just answered my own question. im gonna check it out later. thanks jeff

The solenoid has two wires hooked to it. The pink/black wire supplies a constant 12v as long as the key is on, but also comes through the brake switch, so that has to be working correctly.

The other wire is the purple/white wire and is the control wire from the ECM.
 
Jeff, is your T fitting on the wastegate hooked up properly? Also try playing with the control knob, For me with the knob pinned in either direction i would only get a clunk from the soln. In and about the middle and it came into the adjustment zone and it would bzzz the soln.. After getting it working yesterday and out cruzing last night it's a sweet little unit with rock solid boost control (at least at lower speeds up to about 80)


Any diff in boost when you power the unit off?
 
Here is how I would set it up on the street.

The chip regains boost control when the unit is off, you don't need or want that in MHO. The BSTC does the job leave the power switch on all the time and hook it to a switched ign. source of power.

Set the tps trigger kinda low say 1.5 Volts or so.

Set your base wastegate actuator tension for about 14 pounds without alky or race gas.

The BSTC will then up the ante to about 19 psi for street use with good gas.

Set the tension higher but to your minimum boost when using alky. I use 17-18psi. tension and up it to 23-24 with alky. with the controller.
 
o.k., i checked the wiring again and its right.im not getting a buzz from the solinoid when i put my foot to the floor. the boost does not change with the boost command on or off. i have 12 volts on the pink/black wire when the key is on. i checked to see if i had power on the purple/white wire on the solinoid with foot to the floor. i was not getting 12 volts there but was seeing the meter change from 0.0 to 0.1 so it looked like it was sending some kind of signal. my question is should i get twelve volts or not on the purple /white wire. is the boost command sending a signal to the solinoid or vise versa. im a little confused right know. not sure how exactly the solinoid works. i hope that im not confusing you guys. maybe the solinoid is shot. thanks in advanvce jeff
 
It doesn't sound like the BstC is sending a signal. the solenoid should make a buzzing sound when you push the accelerator to the floor with BstC turned on and key on.

Generyally this propblem points to a wiring hookup problem. The most common cause is one of the connectors you had to apply to the wiring. Something like the wire pushed in too far and when the connector was crimped, it got crimped over the insulation and isn't making good contact, or some other stranged connection problem. Try to probe the wire leaving the ecm just after your installed connection to see if there's a volt or so when flooring the car.
The purple/white wire wont have 12 volts, but some portion of it, because it's a rapidly pulsed signal. Watch for the level to change on your meter as you move the BstC knob from min to max.
 
i will be rewiring it tommorrow. o.k., so we know the solinoid should be buzzing with foot to the floor with boost command on. this is probably a dumb question but with boost command off you would still get a buzz at the solinoid, right or wrong. thanks jeff
 
Jeff. with the unit powered off there will be no buzzing, Also make sure your knob is in the middle of the adjustment and play from there. You will absolutly here the wastgate solinoid bieng pulsed when you get it working.

Good luck-u'll love it when you get the gremlins out.
 
o.k., i just got done rewiring it and still habve no signal going to solinoid. i checked voltage at the solinoid and have 12 volts on the pink/black wire and 12 volts on the purple /white wire when wires are plugged into the solinoid. i only have it on the pink/black when its not plugged in. so, my question is is the boost command bad or the solinoid bad. thanks jeff
 
Top