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What kind of pressure are you getting with your Propane?

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I was also thinking in conjunction with the momentary switch maybe one could install a "seat belt buzzer"or similar right at the power input to the heater so that if it were getting power it will buzz while it's on.That way if it shorts or the switch fails the buzzer will be noticed after the engine is off and you exit the car.It would'nt be on constant and during normal use would not be heard to well from the trunk to the cab.Can never be too safe with compressed gas.I hope my kit is on the porch when I get home tomorrow from work!!I don't plan to install it until spring so these cold bottle problems might not be so bad then.
 
I have filled my tank last week for the first time at first I got 120 PSI..

Now after numerous runs, I only get 100 PSI before I drive. After I run the system a little bit, it would end up about 80 PSI. This is very repeatable. I'm in CA so the weather isn't THAT cold. Did the guy not fill it up completely for me, or what..?
 
Originally posted by EclipseTurbo
I have filled my tank last week for the first time at first I got 120 PSI..

Now after numerous runs, I only get 100 PSI before I drive. After I run the system a little bit, it would end up about 80 PSI. This is very repeatable. I'm in CA so the weather isn't THAT cold. Did the guy not fill it up completely for me, or what..?

Define "that" cold. I'll bet I got at least 60 runs and lots of street driving before my bottle pressure dropped due to low volume. Keep track of the ambient temperture vs. bottle pressure.
 
I have a question about the regulator, I remember it was at 110 PSI when I first installed it, both gauges, I backed the knob enough until it fell out and the outlet only dropped 10 PSI down to 100?

My question is do you have to purge or run the solenoid in order to get an accurate reading on the adjustment? I'm thinking because the air has no where to go right now, it stay very close to inlet pressure?

Although, I would think you'd be able to turn the knob on the regulator and see the outlet pressure go up or down immediately.
 
Originally posted by Downtown
Define "that" cold. I'll bet I got at least 60 runs and lots of street driving before my bottle pressure dropped due to low volume. Keep track of the ambient temperture vs. bottle pressure.


Did you do all your testing in warm weather?
 
Originally posted by Vader 87
Did you do all your testing in warm weather?

The bulk of it was done last summer in Houston. I took the bottle pressure for granted back then, running as high as 140 psi. In the fall the pressure started dropping as it cooled off. I will be doing the dyno runs at 120 psi which is easily atainable for me in the summer and with a bottle heater other times.
 
Originally posted by Downtown
The bulk of it was done last summer in Houston. I took the bottle pressure for granted back then, running as high as 140 psi. In the fall the pressure started dropping as it cooled off. I will be doing the dyno runs at 120 psi which is easily atainable for me in the summer and with a bottle heater other times.

Was that 140 psi the bottle or regulated pressure? I was told to expect bottle temps in the 220psio range during summer :eek:
 
That was regulated pressure Im sure. I have seen well over 200 PSI in the summer with my own 2 eyes.
 
I had 150 at my reg/tank last weekend temp was around 68 clear and sunny. Car was in the sun most of the day. In a month or so I don't think I'll need a heater. Still think I'm injecting to close to the TB around 7" or so because of my set up but going to change that soon. Goin to send you some pics Jay you tell me what ya think.
Dan
 
Have you all considered a larger orifice to compensate for the lower temp/pressure? Why not just drill out the smallest jet (you'll never use it anyway, right?) to a few thousandths larger than your biggest jet? Keep drilling 'til you get good flow at regulated pressure of say 50-60 psi or so. I know Jay does not like lower pressures but this is worth a try isn't it?

Here is a chart on temp vs. pressure:
(post #253)


code:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
–20° –10° 0° 10° 20° 30° 40° 50° 60° 70° 80° 90° 100° 110°
11.5 17.5 24.5 34 42 53 65 78 93 110 128 150 177 204
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Joe
 
Originally posted by Vader 87
i ran no jet at all and still had problems

I suspect your propane needs are much greater than my little 2.0 since you have almost twice the displacement. Thus, higher pressure is required to deliver the necessary propane quantity. I guess. What else could it be?

Joe
 
This may be a dumb suggestion, but what would keep someone from using a fan switch/coolant switch to trigger an on/off point for the bottle heater? Supply power key on only to a relay to make it foolproof. Also a question. I assume the small bottle supplied with the kit is to keep things safer in the event of a rear collision vs. a standard "gas grille" cylinder? Does anyone know whether there are any internal differences between the two bottles? BTW, I just received my kit last week - sure looks great! Guess I'm just lazy, just thought a switch controlled heater & common larger bottle would make this perfect!
 
I found the difference between 100 PSI and 80 PSI to be dramatic, every 10 PSI raise is very noiticable! It would miss because there's too much. But then I'm only 2.0L engine.

My pressure is now about 70 PSI about the coldest of the day, and my target is 80 PSI, I went for a refill to up the pressure again, it only took half a gallon ($1).

I think in summer I can use the thank for alot longer as the pressure will be kept up by nice warm temperature, but in winter here in cali, I just have to refill more often rather than needing a bottle heater.
 
"I assume the small bottle supplied with the kit is to keep things safer in the event of a rear collision vs. a standard "gas grille" cylinder? Does anyone know whether there are any internal differences between the two bottles?"

I did a lot of research on cylinders, and found no differences between the 25 and 5 lb ones. However, the 5 lb cylinder should be stronger due to smaller diameter, assuming same wall thickness.

"My pressure is now about 70 PSI about the coldest of the day, and my target is 80 PSI, I went for a refill to up the pressure again, it only took half a gallon ($1)."

Do you have 5lb tank? They have a capacity of about a gallon, and with the new style QCC tank they only fill 80%. So I wonder if needing to add a half gallon of gas meant you were almost empty? I read somewhere that as the tank level drops, the btu's drop off, apparently even at the same pressure. Not sure why, had something to do with surface area and more air in the tank I think.

OK, just found the PDF article I printed off awhile ago, sorry no link on it, it is put out by Insurance Management Associates, Inc. Here it is: "...the lower the level of liquid propane in a cylinder or tank, the fewer BTU's of heat the heater will put out. That's because the volume of air space in the tank increases as the liquid recedes and the surface of the liquid can no longer generate enough pressure to escape the container. When that happens it is called gas-out, and can be dangerous because air and moisture may be drawn through the regulator and into the tank causing corrosion..."

Bottom line, you should refill your tank a lot earlier than you think.

Joe
 
Another idea! A furnace limit switch! They're adjustable, meant to control ambient air, and inexpensive as well. Would something like that be usable to control a bottle heater to give us more accurate control of temp/pressure through a relay?
 
well....had a hot day today....bottle temps in the 150 range....regulated pressure in the 150 range:D .......no knock and O2s were like 880s:eek: .......good pressure does wonders....go figure:rolleyes: ......ran 17 psi 3 times back to back...jumped to 18 on shifts and ran up to 100 mph or faster with no knock....this is still with the biggest jet in there....i turned the solenoid down to 50% and still no knock....20-21 psi should be attainable....next step...bottle heater
 
Hi Vader, are you able to raise the pressure anywhere from 100-150 without adjusting anything else, and you don't feel a bog or anything at all?


:confused:
 
oh yeah it bogs...even with the solenoid at only 50%....i just kept the pressure high to see what would happen....next time i wont go above 120psi regulated.
 
How about adjusting the Hobbs to activate at higher boost, where fuel needs are greater and airflow is higher, so you can minimize bogging but still run more propane to address high rpm needs?

Joe
 
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