What`s the best way to cure slow electric windows

And you should avoid the EBay $6.00 shipped to your door motors they work great for about 2 weeks and then they get slower then the originals.
 
:) just replaced my driver's side with new motor from NAPA, $37. Old time up was almost 11 seconds up, new time up 3.5. Job took 30 minutes tops by drilling 3 one inch holes at the dimples. Got the procedure from this board, piece of cake, what a time saver.
 
:) just replaced my driver's side with new motor from NAPA, $37. Old time up was almost 11 seconds up, new time up 3.5. Job took 30 minutes tops by drilling 3 one inch holes at the dimples. Got the procedure from this board, piece of cake, what a time saver.


post up the part #rs.
 
I think I pulled motors from the 4 door caddy's (Frnts only if I recall correctly) Actually licked into finding newer motors. I always take along a small battery for testing purposes and then pick the "fastest" ones.
 
Before replacing the motors you could try cleaning the window switches contacts. I had to replace me drivers switch and both motors picked up speed with the new switch. Since then I had my drivers window motor go bad. I used the drill out the dimple method to change the motor - that's the way to do it. I also lubricated the tracks with the correct GM grease per the service manual. I replaced the motor with a new Carbone unit with lifetime warranty for about $45. Both windows will go up and down in 3.XX seconds. They work excellent for a 23 year old car.

Craig
 
So why is it my 2001 Windstar has the windows up or down in about 1.5 secs? Is it the motor or wiring or combination of both maybe just better technology? Sure like the Buick to do that!!
 
Your Windstar uses a different motor type and regulator type which is why they are fast like the ones on my Roadmaster. If you want fast motors you have to have at least 12-13 volts to the pink power supply wire at the fuse block. The G-Body uses a generic GM power window motor. They are the same for both sides. Just about every car built in the 80's uses the same motor. As far as used ones from the boneyard go I always snag the ones from the rear doors of Cadillacs figuring they are used the least and should be in better condition than say the ones in the drivers door. Two models of cars that used this type of motor up into the 90's are the 1990-1996 U-Van(Lumina APV,Silhoutte,Transport) and the 92-98 N-Body(GrandAm,Acheiva,Skylark) so you have lots of models to pick a fairly new condition one from anyway.
 
heres what to do for fast windows without spending any $$$$$

1)of course your motors and regulators need to be in good shape.

2)lube the regulators with a excessive amount of grease,everywhere.don't miss the reg or motor gear.

2)bypass the load resistor in the motor,even a brand new motor can drop several volts across it.its job is to cut off voltage if the motor gets overloaded,problem is over time they get "weak".

WARNING; THE ONLY SIDE EFFECT IS YOU'LL LOSE THE SAFETY OF THE RESISTOR IF THE SWITCH STAYS STUCK IN THE DOWN/UP POSITION FOR EXAMPLE. I SWAP MY CIRCIT BREAKER FOR A 40A BLADE FUSE JUST IN CASE.

ill post up some pics and instructions if anyone is interested.this involves removing the motor.........
 
i dont have any pics.my astro van need this mod on the passenger window...will post up step by step with pics as soon as i have the time to do this mod...
 
Someone mentioned the well-extinct early, heavier, window motors. Been there, done that, years ago ... don't work. Most economical fix is new motors from Autozone or Advance ... about $50-$60 each. I have shockingly fast windows on my dark red T. I say that because after I bought the car, and I hit the PW button, I was shocked. Here's the reason:
 

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