When converting a regular Regal....

New sheet metal louver for my innercooler.
 

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I bought the springs from Advance Auto Parts they were the OEM replacements. They had many more winds that the stock springs and were much firmer. Cost was $65

WOW..those are stock springs?? How much higher did the rear come up? I'm looking to raise the rear in my GN and inch or so and these springs looks like it will work.

Thanks,
Ray
 
WOW..those are stock springs?? How much higher did the rear come up? I'm looking to raise the rear in my GN and inch or so and these springs looks like it will work.

Thanks,
Ray

These were better than stock. My stock springs were complete junk. I didn't measure how much it raised the car up, but if you look at the pics, the rearend of my car now sits above the rear tire. It must have raised up at 2-3 inches.
 
????

I never asked this question. Is there a difference between the NA steering column and the TR steering column?

My preliminary electrical testing is not giving me any power with the ignition forward one click. No radio, No windshield wipers, No dash, no turn signals, no fuel pump, no power windows, but I have cabin lights and headlights/taillights. With the ignition one click backward, I have radio.

I'm thinking I have a problem with the steering column connections or I should have swapped the steering columns.
 
Fuzzy memory here - it is early and my TR is at home and I'm not or I'd check to make sure before posting. I think that one click back is the accessory position, one click forward is the "off" position, two clicks forward is the on/run position, three clicks is of course the start position so everything you described there should be correct. I can't believe the steering column and/or associated wiring would be any different from a TR to a NA Regal. I'm sure someone will chime in here if I am wrong.
 
On the steering column....

RATROASTER is this going to be a column or console shifter? I assume there are differences to account for there.

BTW ..Great progress on the project w/lots of useful info. Keep it going. Its looking fine!:cool:
 
I just looked on mitchell and it shows 4 differant ignition switches.depends what your using .they show standard column with and with out console and they show tilt column with or with out console. the columns are the same but the ignition switch is differant .The other differances are if you have delay wipers and cruise control .hope this helps. I forgot the switches are the same from na to turbo cars just depends on options above. the wiring diagram shows the differances from the turbo cars to the na cars. but does not say anything about floor or console shift cars. do you have the wiring diagram for the car.I cant copy and paste with mitchell but i can print it and fax it if needed.
 
The NA car is set up for column shift and has cruise control and delay wipers. The TR donor car was a column shift with cruise control and delay wipers. I have the wiring diagram from the Hanes book for 87 Regals, but I don't have a wiring diagram for the TR specifically.

I've taken a couple of days from the project to regain my sanity and watch some NFL football. Wednesday I'll take a look and double check my connections. Its also possible my starter is junk. I'll put the starter on from the original turbo motor, which went through the wreck and layed around for two years. I'm going to install the starter on from the motor and see what I get before I attempt to swap columns.
 
FYI I had a bad starter. Now the next problem. My passenger side header was tweaked in the accident. I think I can get away with having only the turbo inlet modified to clear the sensor and input piping. If that doesn't work, I'll need another passenger side header. You'll see in the pics that the input bell does not clear the sensor (IAC?).
 

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FYI I had a bad starter. Now the next problem. My passenger side header was tweaked in the accident. I think I can get away with having only the turbo inlet modified to clear the sensor and input piping. If that doesn't work, I'll need another passenger side header. You'll see in the pics that the input bell does not clear the sensor (IAC?).

Tweaked that badly, I don't see how your THDP is going to line up well enough to get down past the frame cleanly, and the bottom of it won't even be close to lining up.
 
heater box

I have just done this exact project. You don't have to swap the heater box. If your worried about the downpipe heating anything, wrap it with Thermo-tec exhaust wrap. It will help with the underhood temps. PM me if you want my number to talk about the project.
 
I would definitely replace that pass side turbo header, as Dave pointed out, your never going to get the THDP to fit correctly.

BW
 
Stock passenger header on the way. FYI I got a job as a Sales Engineer......that's going to slow down my progress! :)
 
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